Torque converter/drive plate assembly BW65 box

[Guest]

I find the shoulder on the central spigot of the torque converter is proud of the four mounting bosses by almost 2mm.

This means that when assembled to the drive plate, the plate will flex and apply an axialload tothe torque converter to keep it engaged with the crankshaft.

Does this sound correct?

I am concerned that the starter ring gear will be distorted by the dished shape the drive plate will adopt.

If anyone has a BW65 torque converter handy, could you check the spigot/mounting boss alignment and let me know what you find.

Thanks

James

[Moraystag]

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James I have sent your question to an auto specialist that I know, and who recently completely rebuilt my BW 65. Will see what he comes back with. He is a classic enthusiast as well so he may reveal some trade secrets



Mike

[adieturner]

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simple answer is no.......it shouldn't distort/load. Have you got both spacers in place?

[Guest]

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Thanks Mike, I look forward to hearing his comments.

As to the spacer arrangement.

If I assemble the two spacers as shown in the parts catalogue, the drive plate no longer engages with the crank and so cannot be aligned concentrically. Though if it could be assembled like this my gap would disappear and the drive plate would not be distorted.

So my arrangement is: thick spacer, drive plate then thin spacer. In this arrangement the drive plate just engages with the crank. It also seems to be the arrangement shown in section 12.53.13 of the ROM.

Interestingly all the witness marks on the drive plate indicate this is how it was originally assembled.

So I am left thinking the drive plate flexes to take up the 1/16 in gap.

James

[Moraystag]

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James I have a reply back from my auto guy, he says that he will speak to you on the phone if you have any problems He's from Glasgow and pretty helpfull, see his reply bellow



Hi Mike



What you are explaining sounds right when you put the 4 bolts through the drive plate & tighten them to the torque converter feet it will pull the plate towards the feet of the torque converter.

[Guest]

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Thanks Mike

That confirms what I thought was happening.

Thanks for your help.

James

[adieturner]

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But only to ease the converter back towards the flexplate to give the required amount of end float......maximum 0.080" at a guess. It should not run with the plate deformed. Does the converter nose fit in the crank OK?

[Guest]

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That's my problem.

Since the shoulder on the spigot is proud of the torque converter feet, the torque converter is fully engaged with the crank and the feet are not making contact with the drive plate.

This sketch should help.

Washers could be used to take up the gap but none were revealed when the unit was taken apart.

So, do I have a rogue torque coverter?

If the drive plate is not meant to flex, it would make more sense for the feet on the torque converter to be proud of the shoulder on the spigot; then there could be some end float once the two are bolted together.

Cheers

James

[GDPR]

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You should be able to spin the converter with the bosses in contact with the flexplate.

There should be no deflection or distortion of the flexplate when you bolt up.

I have a 65 converter in the garage frpm my ZF upgrade - do you want me to measure it up?

[adieturner]

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Is the spigot bush all the way in to the end of the crank? (Standing proud would cause what you are seeing).
Can you push the converter further away from the crank (towards the box)? If yes and you are happy the assembly has some end float I'd say washers to take up the space but it would be nice to know the cause.
Suggest you take up Russ's measuring offer.

[Guest]

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Thanks Russ, could you check your converter.

A straight edge across the mounting feet will either show the shoulder on the spigot is above, equal toor below them.

Mine is above by 1/16 in.

Thanks

James

[Moraystag]

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James I sent mine to auto fuy for full refurb due to bad snatch. Although the snatch is not completely gone but 90% better than before. Revs dropped pretty much as low as they will go. I would still like to get rid of the snatch completely.

Anyone on here any ideas, bearing in mind the box is fully refrbed including TC



Mike

[GDPR]

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JamesG wrote:

Thanks Russ, could you check your converter.

A straight edge across the mounting feet will either show the shoulder on the spigot is above, equal toor below them.

Mine is above by 1/16 in.

Thanks

James

A quick check of mine shows it to be the same as yours, which to me says where it goes into your crank is wrong - ie a spigot bush where there shouldn't be one