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    #16

    Bottom nut is a swine, but I have found that a halford 1/4" socket set and extensions does the job. Not much fun though

    Originally posted by STAG GEEK Mk.1 View Post
    There is someone on ebay that does a part exchange for master cylinder, but for £40 maybe get a new one ??
    £40 for a new master cylinder? sounds too cheap !! Caveat Emptor

    Brand new TRW pattern master cylinders are coming in at over £100

    Maybe Paul Goldenstar had the answer over on the wanted / for sale thread


    Buy cheap, buy twice

    Don't mess about with brakes please
    Stags and Range Rover Classics - I must be a loony

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      #17
      No sorry it was the way I put it.I can get a recon exchange one for £65 and for another £40, in total £105 I can get a new one so maybe get new.The removal I think I will drop the servo off make it much easier, thank you for all of your comments, they do help.

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        #18
        You probably want to take the servo off to remove the fluid from it?

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          #19
          Yes thank you I will do that

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            #20
            I bought and fitted a new master cylinder from SOC spares 3 years ago, it bled OK first time and has been fine since. Certainly not £40 though! Closer to £120, but as Richard says, you don't go cheap on brake parts.
            Header tanks - you can't beat a bit of bling.

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              #21
              Robsport £89.95

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                #22
                Have had trouble with new Lucas / TRW master cylinder’s leaking.

                only trust Lockheed resleeved & pressure tested ones now.

                CBC | Car Parts & Accessories for modern & classic cars | Bike shop selling BMXs, Mountain Bikes, Bike Accessoies & more!
                Last edited by jbuckl; 6 April 2023, 22:26.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by Davo1805NZ View Post
                  Yep - guilty as charged. In my case I was put off the scent by the fact that the fluid had tracked along the chassis rail, ultimately ending up inside the lower front valance and dripping from the holes in that. No sign of any fluid anywhere else. Same cause though - seals in the master cylinder failed, allowing fluid into the servo; ended up with the rear reservoir empty and the front half empty, giving no front brakes, just rear with pedal almost to floor. Have ordered a new mc from Robsport and also a servo repair kit. I have cleaned out the servo as best I can and initially intend to put it back as is, along with the new mc. If problems arise with the servo I will tackle rebuilding it.
                  The new master cylinder arrived today - 6 days from the other side of the world, pretty damn quick. Contemplating fitting it to the servo, I wondered if there should be some gasket or seal between the two, and looking in the parts catalogue I see these two items circled below. There was nothing there when I removed the old master cylinder and I cannot find any reference to these items on Rimmers' website or anywhere else. Can anybody advise regarding these? I'm imagining that this joint needs to be sealed to contain the vacuum - in the absence of anything else, should I just use some blue Hylomar here?

                  Thanks in advance...

                  Brake servo.jpg

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                    #24
                    Davo.
                    The new master cylinder I have just fitted came with a rubber seal built in to it where it fits in to the servo.
                    Mike

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                      #25
                      I wonder if that photo is for another Triumph. As Mike says the master cylinder has a seal on it. I dismantled and rebuilt a master cylinder. Take a look https://youtu.be/4_piX1QnEuA

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                        #26
                        OK thanks - yes, I can now see the seal fitted to the master cylinder. The drawing in the ROM is confusing as it appears to indicate separate items which need to be installed.

                        Brake mc seal.jpg

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                          #27
                          I changed my master cylinder recently and as Richard states could only get the nut next to the inner wing off using 1/4" socket with a knuckle joint and short extension

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by PaulShaw View Post
                            I changed my master cylinder recently and as Richard states could only get the nut next to the inner wing off using 1/4" socket with a knuckle joint and short extension
                            That's why the ROM at 70.30.08 suggests that you remove the servo and the master cylinder complete from the car.
                            Richard
                            Mabel is a white 1972 Mk1½, TV8, Mo/d.

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                              #29
                              ROM also says to loosen head bolts when refitting inlet manifold
                              Stags and Range Rover Classics - I must be a loony

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                                #30
                                By the way when you have the servo out to empty the fluid try not to be tempted to use a 4" paint brush to smother it with thick silver paint , but if you cannot resist try to avoid adding a rough layer of paint to the master cylinder mating face. Or better still do it the army way, fully assembled and then painted
                                Stags and Range Rover Classics - I must be a loony

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