Stress cracks wings

[Tim Ward]

Stress cracks on the joins between body panels. I have touched them up over the years but they always come back. Has anybody used a polish/filler, if there is such a product That fills the crack and makes look more presentable. Thanks in advance Tim

[richardthestag]

Lead

The body needs to flex a certain amount but in the right places. Where are the cracks appearing on your car

[mole42]

The Australians used to braze some joints as well as spot welding - typically the two joints on the wings to the front panel and the two on the rear panel where it joins the rear wing (between the tonneau cover and the boot lid). This seemed to work but I've heard it said that silver soldering is better because it's a cooler process. As Richard wrote, lead works pretty well but needs a very clean bare metal to bond to, if you can find a lead loader who is still working - I did my last leading about 30 years ago. However, either process does involve repainting if you do it as a repair procedure, AFAIK there is no product that will permanently fill the joints on top of the paint.

[Tim Ward]

Lead

The body needs to flex a certain amount but in the right places. Where are the cracks appearing on your car

Seems to be the usual places. front wing joining the headlight panel and again front wing joining the wiper panel. Looking at most other Stags they seem to have the same issues. Yes thought about brazing and lead loading. Wondered if anybody had found a sticking plaster that masked the problem ?

[dasadrew]

When my Stag was completely stripped I had a look at those seams and am sure I saw a hint of brassy colour in there, so it looks like they were brazed or whatever from the factory. I asked the paintshop to take particular care there and they used some sort of neutralising coat but said on such joints the paint will be sure to bubble - maybe some electrolytic activity. Sure enough 5 years later they bubbled.

[DJT]

This is how mine were done 10 years ago. tack welded then two-part body adhesive, topped with filler. Yes, there is a faint crack, but no bubbling after 35,000 miles.

DT0035.jpg

[Goldstar]

I seem to recall people have used Tiger Seal or Dum Dum in the past. Can’t find a thread to see if it was successful

[Tim Ward]

Thanks everyone for your replies. Will have a try of Dum dum, haven't heard that name in years. , My previous stag I welded the joint completely and ground the join line in. I sold it as a project so never did find out if it helped eliminate the cracks.

Just found out Dum Dum hasn't been available since 2012

[Goldstar]

That’s progress for you. Just did a bit of Googling and the guys in the Landy forums reckon this is a decent substitute.

5498CC31-2F7E-426D-9297-D049EB01778E.png

[ramjam2005]

That’s progress for you. Just did a bit of Googling and the guys in the Landy forums reckon this is a decent substitute.

5498CC31-2F7E-426D-9297-D049EB01778E.png

If it (or any product for that matter) stays uncured, would that not carry a risk of being accidently indented if pressed hard, say with over enthusiastic polishing or lent on, and result in the paint cracking ?

I chatted to a member with his car on the SOC stand at NEC one year and commented on how good the seams looked on his car. He said he used metal bonding glue.
Many modern car manufacturing processes now use glue bonding of panels as opposed to spot welding on the production line but these also need exact temperature / times for curing.

[jbuckl]

Silver solder is the do it once way.