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    Intermittent starter issue

    I am experiencing a problem when starting or trying to start. Turn the ignition and I get a click but no starter motor. I am getting over 12v at the battery. After seven or eight attempts the starter does eventually turn, I presume its an electrical issue. The starter is about 3 year old. Where do I start, where are the usual trouble spots. Or could it be the motor sticking. Thank you in advance. Mike

    #2
    Is the car manual or auto?

    If it’s automatic, try starting in neutral, or with the lever in park but also pushed an extra bit further forwards.

    If it’s automatic & either of those helps, it could be the inhibitor switch contacts or even the fly lead contacts.

    The inhibitor switch is adjustable. It’s contacts can be cleaned.

    Access to the inhibitor is via an access panel under the left side transmission tunnel carpet.

    a slimline 11/16” open end spanner can be warmed & bent to fit the hexagon flats on the switch.

    it could be ignition switch contacts inside. The switch contacts can be cleaned…. Beware of detent balls & springs inside the switch though. Cover is clinched onto switch in 3 places….will usually cope with at least one attempt & reassembly.

    could be worn contacts in the solenoid if they were not replaced previously…. Very common fault.

    red & white female spade terminal onto the solenoid could need cleaning & tightening.

    could be a poor battery terminal contact.

    could be a poor earth from body to engine.

    imho the aftermarket relay kits will only be masking some of the above & isn’t that worth fitting.
    Last edited by jbuckl; 29 May 2023, 20:59.
    There are 2 secrets to staying on top :- 1. Don't give everything away.
    2.

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      #3
      Hello Mike,

      Before you start the awkward job of removing the starter motor, have a look inside the boat-shaped electrical connector that lurks down the side of the engine / gearbox somewhere below the fuse box. This is very prone to corrosion & crud, causing a high resistance, and sometimes a good cleaning up the pins will solve the problem. Long term, if it is indeed the cause of your problem, replacing this with a modern waterproof electrical connector is your best option.

      Dave

      IMG_1006.jpg IMG_1007.jpg
      Last edited by 022Dave; 29 May 2023, 20:58.

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        #4
        I made this video which may help you isolate where to start looking for the issue:



        Sujit

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          #5
          Just noticed mikes car is auto.
          Mike, did you fix the output shaft wobble or was it ok.
          Or did you bite the bullet & go for a ZF?
          Last edited by jbuckl; 29 May 2023, 23:03.
          There are 2 secrets to staying on top :- 1. Don't give everything away.
          2.

          Comment


            #6
            Many thanks for your help. Plenty to go on here. Have made a start with the junction box. It does need a clean looking at it. Useful video Thank you. Yes it's Auto So will try and by pass the switch. Regarding the wobble from the shaft, having a new bush fitted in 10 days. So if the inhibitor switch looks dodgy will get a new one fitted at the same time. Thanks again.

            Comment


              #7
              Starter click - nothing (when battery is charged) is usually because the circuit has too much resistance, 99.99% of the time it is the boat shaped connector 022Dave shows. clean it with electric contact cleaner, gently enlarge the male pins using a small philips screw driver and reassemble.

              It is also worth checking that the White/Red wire to the back of the starter motor is in good order and seated tightly.

              disconnect battery before fiddling around on the back of the starter as there is a permanent 12v feel on the big wire that goes to the solenoid.

              Lastly and strictly as a get out of jail free option when you are stuck someplace with click nothing. Sometimes I have found that holding the ignition key in the start position for 3 seconds will get the starter to turn. BEWARE though that you are operating the circuit incorrectly and if the issue is due to High Resistance then you may overheat the switch or wiring to the solenoid.
              Stags and Range Rover Classics - I must be a loony

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                #8
                Once the actual problem has been sorted, I am a firm believer in taking the solenoid current off the ignition switch by fitting the relay modifcation.

                Ditto the headlight current on the lighting switch.

                Header tanks - you can't beat a bit of bling.

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