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I would appreciate any advice on removing a rear hub to replace the wheel bearings.
I know that Spitfire hubs require a special puller, is it the same for the Stag?
Removal is 6 nuts behind the brake drum.
Slacken the hub nut before removing the hub.
Splitting the taper requires a lot of carefully applied force.
TD fitchetts supply exchange hubs.
re assembly of the hub & the 6 nuts requires care…. It’s very easy to strip the alloy threads in the trailing arm.
A hub splitter or press is needed to break the taper & replace the bearings.
The press force required can damage the drive flange & weaken the shaft at the thread undercut.
It is all detailed in the r.o.m. ( & also in various articles on here too)
Ccd (classic car developments) offer new alloy hubs at about £1000 a pair.
Thanks everyone for taking time to answer my query.
I'm delighted to say that the issue is now sorted, no new bearings required.
Our local Northern Ireland coordinator is a mine of information, and a long time Stag owner/fixer.
He was able to tell me that the rear bearings are adjustable. He talked me through removing the driveshaft and doing the job.
The splines and the universal joint are in great condition, and have obviously been 'breathed on' by a previous owner.
The bearings tightened up nicely, but I will keep an eye on them.
The SOC community is great, thanks again.
Thanks everyone for taking time to answer my query.
I'm delighted to say that the issue is now sorted, no new bearings required.
Our local Northern Ireland coordinator is a mine of information, and a long time Stag owner/fixer.
He was able to tell me that the rear bearings are adjustable. He talked me through removing the driveshaft and doing the job.
The splines and the universal joint are in great condition, and have obviously been 'breathed on' by a previous owner.
The bearings tightened up nicely, but I will keep an eye on them.
The SOC community is great, thanks again.
HI Mervyn,
Just wondered if you would be kind enough to post up a HOW TO DO instruction for this as I have this job to do.
Iv had the drive shaft out before and thought I had tightened the bearing but its got play again.
Is this literally a case of slackening of the lock nut and locking tab ,and then tightening the nut clockwise?
I have only once found play in a rear wheel bearing, it was on my Mk1 when I rebuilt it.
Not knowing the history of the car I adjusted the end float.
A few thousand miles later the play was back followed shortly afterwards by a noisy bearing.
The message here is that play in the bearing can be a result of impending bearing failure.
Another point to mention is that backlash in the threads of the 2" nuts can mean that tightening the locking nut can reduce end float below minimums, if the first nut is set to reduce end float to the minimum figure
Neil
Neil
TV8, efi, fast road cams and home built manifolds. 246bhp 220lbft torque
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