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    Front Wing Removal method.

    Has anyone that's undertaken their own body restoration removed a front wing in tact with minimal damage to enable it's successful re-fit (say after a sill replacement, splash closing panel etc) ? If so, how did you accomplish it?

    I performed a forum search but nothing relative to my question came up.

    My LH wing in question appears to be solid in all the normal trouble areas as it had been replaced in a previous repair back in the late 80's due to collision damage so hoping to save a genuine panel. If not, then at a minimum I'd cut the bottom rear of the wing to expose the sill end and A-post then either re-use this original portion or a SOCTFL repair panel 907071RLR.

    I am in the process of a full restoration and my experience so far in removing the rusted RH / Drivers front wing has proven very difficult and destructive due to how badly it had been previously replaced in early 80's by a so called 'professional' body repairer. See pictures.


    IMG_3355.jpg Before7.jpg

    It would appear that the repairer (probably wearing boxing gloves to work in ) had bodged the job by bashing the granny out of the RH end of the front forward panel (907073), then applying a heavy braze in the indentation to attach the new wing then cover with a thick layer of body filler, over 3/8" at its maximum depth ! I'm replacing said front panel anyway so I had to take a grinder cutting wheel to it to enable detaching the old wing. Similar heavy brazing method was used on the wing attachment to the top deck of bulkhead, resulting in more mis-shapen metal and damage to repair. The RH end of the top headlamp panel will need rebuilding too due to damage and deep pitted rust.

    My dilemma is, should I bite the bullet, as I'm doing a full body restoration, and also fully remove what appears to be a good, solid LH wing giving me an opportunity to expose, check and epoxy zinc prime the inner wheel arch cavities? But I'm reluctant due to the issue found with the RH wing and the resulting damage to surrounding areas. As said, I'll be replacing the front forward panel anyway so I'd also get an opportunity to check that a more conventional attachment of the LH wing at this joint was undertaken by the other body repair shop involved in the later repair.
    It's all about damage limitation vs doing the job right. I'd hope to avoid the cost of a new LH wing and any possible issues of today's ill-fitting replacement panels.

    Cheers Ray.

    Last edited by ramjam2005; 6 June 2023, 16:27.

    #2
    Heavy braze or braze or silver solder really is the best way to stop cracking in this notorious joint.

    When wings were £115 each it wasn’t worth removing carefully…. Maybe it is now though.

    Hacksawing through a brazed joint will cause damage to one or other or both panels.

    May require new panels, but appreciate they are no longer cheap.

    It’s possible to choose the cheapest panel to sacrifice & keep dearer one to clean up & keep … do it.

    Not all body people will be capable though judging by recent posts!
    Last edited by jbuckl; 6 June 2023, 16:26.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by jbuckl View Post
      Heavy braze or braze or silver solder really is the best way to stop cracking in this notorious joint.

      When wings were £115 each it wasn’t worth removing carefully…. Maybe it is now though.

      Hacksawing through a brazed joint will cause damage to one or other or both panels.

      May require new panels, but appreciate they are no longer cheap.

      It’s possible to choose the cheapest panel to sacrifice & keep dearer one to clean up & keep … do it.

      Not all body people will be capable though judging by recent posts!
      Thanks for the response, that was my logic on sacrificing the front panel as I knew it was being replaced. Fortunately, I purchased many of the replacement panels decades ago and stored whilst my restoration plans slumbered until now so a lot cheaper back then AND would like to think most are originals. You're talking almost £500 now for a new wing

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by ramjam2005 View Post

        Thanks for the response, that was my logic on sacrificing the front panel as I knew it was being replaced. Fortunately, I purchased many of the replacement panels decades ago and stored whilst my restoration plans slumbered until now so a lot cheaper back then AND would like to think most are originals. You're talking almost ã500 now for a new wing
        Absolutely. I paid 2 day’s labour to carefully remove front wings when they were £115. Not the case now.

        But brazing / silver soldering the visible joints is entirely worth while…. To stop cracking of them subsequently….after expensive paint.

        Imho spot welds don’t.

        Have recently seen disasters on expensive paint jobs which only had spot welds or tack welds at these joints.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by jbuckl View Post

          But brazing / silver soldering the visible joints is entirely worth while…. To stop cracking of them subsequently….after expensive paint.

          Imho spot welds don’t..
          I've been researching these options as to which is the best approach as and when I get to that stage, being fully aware of the paint cracking at these joints both front and rear as I have the rear deck panel to replace too.

          Your input is much appreciated.

          Ray

          Comment


            #6
            So many ask on here about cracks in those joints…. But after the spendy paint job.

            also applies to the sill to rear wing joint too .

            front lower valence to wing may also be another candidate… if they end up close enough

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by jbuckl View Post
              So many ask on here about cracks in those joints…. But after the spendy paint job.

              also applies to the sill to rear wing joint too .

              front lower valence to wing may also be another candidate… if they end up close enough
              Someone on here may come along with the technical/scientific explanation but I guess the cracking tendency is more acute at the 4 top (front & rear) joints due to the natural flexing and twisting of the body and the forces involved trying to pull these joints apart

              Comment


                #8
                Hi,i had the same dilema on my resto',i have good wings but had to fit sills and repair the A posts aswell,after much thought and looking into it i cut the bottom off the wings and rewelded afterwards and cut and folded the wing top corners back(no welding issue at rear of flange if not cut)
                It has all worked well but if new wings were cheaper it would have been easier to replace and have better access to the inner arch repairs too!!
                Attached Files

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thanks for the reply Adrian, very helpful with the photos too. Same as what I was thinking as my 'Plan B' and good idea with the top corner as my windscreen posts on both sides also need major surgery having removed the rain gully to investigate.

                  IMG_3296.jpg

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Yep looks familiar,i think the A post repair is probably the hardest of all with inner and outer panels to make but ok if you take your time and have a sweat box close by
                    Attached Files

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Swear box not a sweet box!!!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Another good reason to remove the whole wing, is you then get access to the inner wing box section and the back of the wing by windscreen area both place you can find rust

                        Dave

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Hi Ray,

                          it is possible to remove the wings without too much damage, I done this only a couple of weeks ago, it takes a lot of patience and time, I started at the top nearest the screen, and slowly worked my way down to the headlight surround, I then managed to part the wing and lower front valence enough to be able to get a thin grinder blade in and cut them apart, slowly making my way around, I had a little bit of damage here and there but a little hammer and dollying and sorted,
                          time is your friend on this one!! Good luck

                          luigi

                          Comment


                            #14
                            New front wings are available from Robsport for 475GBP incl VAT, but BMIHT (who make them) now list them at 550GBP. Whilst they may seem expensive, they are cheap compared with the new ones now available for the Mk111 Capri, with a 7-month wait

                            IMG_0093.jpg
                            Dave
                            1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by DJT View Post
                              New front wings are available from Robsport for 475GBP incl VAT, but BMIHT (who make them) now list them at 550GBP. Whilst they may seem expensive, they are cheap compared with the new ones now available for the Mk111 Capri, with a 7-month wait
                              But even with new wings, it’s still only a Ford…

                              Other Dave

                              Comment

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