Manual Gearbox

[Newbie]

Hi Im new to the club and forum and only a year into the club. First time posting as well.

Really trying to gather some advice.
Recently had a gearbox oil change I certainly hadnt changed it and owned the car 5 years. Now i have noticed :-

1. Overdrive is a lot sharper in engagement. (great)
2. But when hot the selection of gears gets really hard and notchy especially into 1st . Crunch into second unless double de clutching.

Should I have used diferent grade oil of some sort.

Steve

[Goldstar]

Should I have used diferent grade oil of some sort.

Steve

Hi Steve, suppose it depends what you put in there before we can answer that specific question. When was the clutch last changed?

[Newbie]

Cant be 100 % sure but the mileage since rebuld is Low . Rebuild carried out by previous owner when engine rebuilt no reason looking at the reliability of the vehicle to suspect any issues Ive probably only done 5k on it.
Theres no issues when cold only after a while especially round town in that hot weather.
Hypoi 90 was used .

[sujitroy]

here in USA TR6 folks swear by using Redline synthetic gearbox oil in boxes.supposedly it helps with such things

[MikeParker]

Hi Steve,
Welcome to the forum. I use a semi synthetic multi-grade (75W90 from memory). The operation of the overdrive engage/disengage is somewhat dependant on oil viscosity as will be the operation of the synchromesh cones. Perhaps the previous oil was either a thicker grade or a multigrade.
Mike

[richardthestag]

run 20/50 in the gearbox. there is no need at all for synthetic nor semi synthetic oils unless you like spending money.

crunchy 1st / 2nd gear could just be air in the clutch hydraulics. or the slave cylinder installed the wrong side of the gearbox plate.

seen it all unfortunately.

clutch slave flange needs to be on gearbox side of the engine plate. push rod on the centre or hole nearest the Cross shaft.

for bleeding either unbolt the slave and rotate so the bleed nipple is as high as it can get or have a long length of bleed tube routing up into the engine bay with the end in a jam jar of fluid. Happy to help if you need it

[flying farmer]

As Above, sounds like air in the hydraulics to me. The air expands as it gets hot making the problem worse.

Another potential problem is the pin on the cross shaft breaking, or the release fork itself splitting, I have had both problems in the past

[Newbie]

Thanks all .

Ill re bleed the Hydraulics and check positioning of slave first before any invasive options. Thanks again.

[Newbie]

By the way is a new clutch an engine out job. usually you can move the gearbox sufficiantly to gain access or just remove the Gearbox.??

[mole42]

By the way is a new clutch an engine out job. usually you can move the gearbox sufficiantly to gain access or just remove the Gearbox.??

According to the ROM, section 37.20.01, you can remove the gearbox and change the clutch without removing the engine.

[DJT]

According to the ROM, section 37.20.01, you can remove the gearbox and change the clutch without removing the engine.

What it does not mention is the need for long, double jointed fingers to get at the top bolts securing bell housing to engine.

[richardthestag]

What it does not mention is the need for long, double jointed fingers to get at the top bolts securing bell housing to engine.

and a very large swear box

[mole42]

and a very large swear box

Recommended equipment for Stag owners.
Essential equipment for Triumph PI owners.

[jbuckl]

Swear box for moderns is bigger.

EG remove macpherson strut:-
1st remove both wiper arms (usually seized)
2nd remove the scuttle panel (awkward)
…. That’s just to get to the top mount nut.

Stags are nowhere near as bad as moderns for spannering