Will a healthy Stag still burn coolant?
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What do you mean by burn coolant? Are you losing coolant somewhere or is there steam/water coming out of the exhaust?Originally posted by peterjfox69 View Post
neither is good but could have very different causes. Have you had the heads torqued up since the rebuild? If so, they might need doing again.Paul - 3 projects, 1 breaker - garage built and housing 2 white Stags. One runs, one doesn'tComment
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burning coolant is quite tricky as it turns into steam.
do you mean that the coolant level is going down?Stags and Range Rover Classics - I must be a loonyComment
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I didn’t word that very well, the coolant level seems to be fine, I’m just curious as I haven’t run the car properly until now due to the restoration.
The engine was fully rebuilt before the restoration by Wards so it should be fine.
Lots of simple questions I’m afraid as I’m new to Stag ownership.
After spending so much money it’s quiet stressful finding out the foibles of these fantastic cars. I appreciate all your help.Comment
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Peter.
A healthy Stag should not lose any coolant, but maintaining the correct level is important, so it is worth checking regularly. (Read up on how to do this correctly). Also keep an eye on the temperature gauge and you should be ok.
Mike.Comment
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Hi Mike,Originally posted by Lingen View Post
I have a header tank and Davies Craig cooling system fitted by Wards 3000 miles ago when the engine was rebuilt. I used this new engine as the basis of my project. I have noticed the cylinder nearest the driver at the back of the engine on the right hand side No 8?)is sooty with oil liquid on the threads. All other plugs seem dry.
There are no leaks plus heads have been tightened up since rebuild. Hoping everything ok.
First time I’ve owned a classic so really on a steep learning curve here which makes one’s wallet very attractive…Comment
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Peter.
I didn't like to mention the fitting of a header tank (known as a H.T on the Forum!) as they are like Marmite. I fitted one years ago and have never looked back cooling-wise. If only Triumph had fitted one, as gravity is so much more reliable than a pressurised bottle.
If you mean oil around the plug hole, I would check for leaks from the cam cover in that area.
Mike.Comment
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Thanks MikeComment
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One of the biggest challenges that you will need to deal with, is that older cars do not drive nor feel like a 21c German car. they rattle, bonk, fart, wheeze, squeak and generally keep you amused in a variety of ways..Originally posted by peterjfox69 View Post
The gauges, with the exception of the speedometer, only really display that they are working. You get used to their behaviour and then just carry on and enjoy the ride. At least with the electric water pump you will be less likely to notice the water temp gauge waving at you.
A degree of mechanical understanding will help you stress less each time you encounter another foible.Stags and Range Rover Classics - I must be a loonyComment
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Hi Mike, since you mentioned the HT, which for some reason translates as High "level expansion" tank (with air bleed), I do have a genuine question.Originally posted by Lingen View Post
EEWP (Davis Craig electric setup) and H. T. are surely belt and braces. The only real reason for the H.T. would be to give a margin of protection against the OE "high level" water pump and it's proximity to the top of the radiator. With the EEWP located much lower in the engine bay the H.T. is now just a shiny thing, after all you still need to remove caps etc to check levels.
Would not raising the OE expansion bottle up to the top of the front panel and maybe install a coolant level sensor into the top hose for peace of mind save a few quid?
No taking the Michael at all, as the H.T. setup does benefit the standard OE water pump locationStags and Range Rover Classics - I must be a loonyComment
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Richard
.I agree that with the two alternative low level pumps the extra "Head"from a shiny thing not really necessary, although it would still be easier to fill than the OE set up.
As for raising up the bottle, I don't think you could mount it high enough to work, as it's the wrong shape, surely? It really needs to be at least as high as the top hose.
Mike.Comment
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I have both EWP and header tank, though its not a shiny one! Its a brand new VW that cost $26 IIRC
Yes its absolutely so much easier filling and draining with the header tank. I'm going to do a coolant replacement soon, the Davis Craig can be set to run the pump without the engine running so its going to help in the filling and bleeding. All in all that and being able to see the level every time I open the hood is makes it worth the small effort and expense ($40?) I spent on installing the HT.Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware
www.terryhunt.co.ukComment
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A tiny amount of coolant will come past a good graphite/ carbon water pump seal. Almost immeasurable though.
Face seals must have a small amount of weep… otherwise they overheat.
That is why the pump design incorporates a vent & drain.
often inactivity allows corrosion to develop and this allows a greater amount to escape… but after use the seal beds In again and normal sealing is re- achieved.
About 1.5mm of seal wear in service is possible…. Which can take over 150,000 miles to occur.Last edited by jbuckl; 17 October 2023, 22:38.Comment
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Wish I could add something of interest but unfortunately I cannot.
All I can say is thank you again for your time in replying to my rather simple questions.
Love the car even if it is testing my patience and wallet. Such a shame they didn’t quite get it right but still nice to own one.
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