Stag Bumpers Tucked In

[Rumbo]

My original bumpers were in bad shape with dents and even rust working its way through the chrome on the rear bumper brackets.

As I am looking to colour coat the bumpers when the car finally gets a new paint job this year I decided they needed to be tucked in to help blend the bumpers into the body.

This an in between option of a full stainless steel bumper replacement or a bumper less look. Tucking them has reduced the rather large gaps between the body and the bumper.

Ended up making the front bumper an inch higher and an inch closer to the body, the rear an inch closer at the same height. Lifting the front higher made it sit under the chrome trim about the same distance as the rear. Welding the rear side bumpers to the main center section was a bit fiddley and this still requires more filling in preparation for paint. New bumper brackets were made to suit the new positions.

Tucking it makes it a bit cleaner look also by eliminating the overriders, proof will be in the final painting.

bumpers tucked in side sml.jpg
Bumpers tucked in front sml.jpg
Bumpers tucked in rear corner sml.jpg Rear bumper brackets sml.jpg

[Lingen]

Rumbo.
The gaps between the bumpers and the body panels were there for a very good reason!

[stagwingnut]

Hmmmm , I have to agree with Mike , they don’t leave a lot of room for error , considering you are having a complete repaint , the amount of drivers I see nudging other cars whilst parking, your bumpers may easily break into your new paintwork , when being nudged by another vehicle or reversing into a garage , just my opinion , regards Graham

[Philip Wardle]

Also I like to have access to wash & clean the paintwork behind the bumpers.

[Rumbo]

That may be so guys, pity the Triumph designers did not look more closely at body fitments. Many European manufacturers in the 70s designed close fitting metal bumpers, even Alfa engineers contoured close fitting bumpers on my previous 70 GTV!

This reminds me of an old video I saw recently where the Motoring Press took the first 5 production stags out to test. Many commented that the battery was not in an easy to remove spot when it should be.

Pity the Triumph engineers did not change that when they did the Mk 2 changes. This is how I fixed that issue.

Battery in boot.jpg

[JeffW]

Each to his own Rumbo. I don't consider the battery placement an issue and personally I don't want my battery near the fuel tank protected only by some thin sheet metal and a bumper that has had its impact absorption removed.

Memories of Ford Pintos come to mind...

Just my opinion

Jeff

[DJT]

Pity the Triumph engineers did not change that when they did the Mk 2 changes. This is how I fixed that issue.

Battery in boot.jpg

In over 34 years (120,000 miles) of Stag ownership, I have removed the battery no more than 6 times including during body restoration. Each change takes less than 20 minutes. Personally, I value maximum boot space as it is often filled with golf clubs and trolley.

[Philip Wardle]

Many European manufacturers in the 70s designed close fitting metal bumpers

... true, but I love Triumphs as designed, in the style of British cars in the period

[kev100]

That may be so guys, pity the Triumph designers did not look more closely at body fitments. Many European manufacturers in the 70s designed close fitting metal bumpers, even Alfa engineers contoured close fitting bumpers on my previous 70 GTV!

This reminds me of an old video I saw recently where the Motoring Press took the first 5 production stags out to test. Many commented that the battery was not in an easy to remove spot when it should be.

Pity the Triumph engineers did not change that when they did the Mk 2 changes. This is how I fixed that issue.

Battery in boot.jpg

I will be putting the battery in the boot just as you have, will most likely need a bigger battery too, and I want to use the area where the battery is (and the original expansion tank) to feed cold air intakes

Ant tips as far as the install goes ?

[Rumbo]

This is Kev how I fitted the battery in the boot. A simple bracket welded to the body to support the battery and hold down rod kit as purchased from auto store. Purchased thick power cable and with a large cable crimper attached the battery terminal with fuse on battery end of the cable and the other end a lug to attach to a power feed point in the engine bay.

Ran the cable down the left side rear wheel arch, under the rear seat and down the floor on drivers side exiting the fire wall to join up with a power point. This power point then feed the starter and another panel of fuses that provide power to Light relays, AC clutch and Fan relays. The cable was protected by split tubing and routed to ensured no sharp corners to rub through the power cable. Not a hard job to do and certainly frees up valuable space in the engine bay.

I have a Rover 3.9 EFI engine so created a cold air inlet on the left side feed by a separate air inlet opening on the front valance.


battery cable 1 sml.jpg battery cable 2 sml.jpg
battery cable 3 (1024x768).jpg Relays sml.jpg

[kev100]

This is Kev how I fitted the battery in the boot. A simple bracket welded to the body to support the battery and hold down rod kit as purchased from auto store. Purchased thick power cable and with a large cable crimper attached the battery terminal with fuse on battery end of the cable and the other end a lug to attach to a power feed point in the engine bay.

Ran the cable down the left side rear wheel arch, under the rear seat and down the floor on drivers side exiting the fire wall to join up with a power point. This power point then feed the starter and another panel of fuses that provide power to Light relays, AC clutch and Fan relays. The cable was protected by split tubing and routed to ensured no sharp corners to rub through the power cable. Not a hard job to do and certainly frees up valuable space in the engine bay.

I have a Rover 3.9 EFI engine so created a cold air inlet on the left side feed by a separate air inlet opening on the front valance.


battery cable 1 sml.jpg battery cable 2 sml.jpg
battery cable 3 (1024x768).jpg Relays sml.jpg

Excellent, thanks for this, I will be designing a front valence cold air inlet and grill in the front valance too which I will print with my 3D printer, one either side of the valence as will I putting 4 ITB's on each head with each bank independent of each other.

[Rigid]

I know this isn't relevant to the discussion, nor even to the Rover engine, but I thought the benefits of a cold air inlet was dismissed as minimal.
I'm only asking because my early Mk1 has the twin horned airbox and that feeds from directly behind the radiator.
It is a simple mod to bring the air in from the top radiator panel and therefore the cold outside - similar to the Mk2 version but why didn't they bother on the early Stags?

edit - some Triumph related discussions here - https://forum.tssc.org.uk/topic/1155...comment-181074

[kev100]

I know this isn't relevant to the discussion, nor even to the Rover engine, but I thought the benefits of a cold air inlet was dismissed as minimal.
I'm only asking because my early Mk1 has the twin horned airbox and that feeds from directly behind the radiator.
It is a simple mod to bring the air in from the top radiator panel and therefore the cold outside - similar to the Mk2 version but why didn't they bother on the early Stags?

Yes, we seem to have hijacked this tread, but quickly, rammed cold air is more beneficial than engine warm air (or air collected from behind the radiator), as cold air is denser and "holds" more oxygen than warm air .. having said that .. what the real benefit is could be minimal, and there are arguments about any benefits, but as I am designing my own EFi, ITB's, runners and airbox, the logical step would be to design a rammed cold air intake over a warm intake, I also think it would sit nicer in the engine too. As for the benefits to cold air over warm air for a carburettor (rather than ITB's), I am not sure, as a carb cant be "tuned" by the ECU on the fly, cold air may(??) upset the balance (somebody with more knowledge may correct me on that point)

[Rumbo]

Kev there is no hijacking, if owners get info/suggestions that helps them keep their Stags on the road more often then its a win for the marque.

I am in the cold air inlet camp. I made a airbox by cutting up a black plastic storage tub from a hardware store and attached it using brackets and rivets.

I did not want the air filter near the front air inlet screen on the valance as it may get contaminated by water in winter and road grime. Where it is allows easy access to remove for cleaning.

My cold air inlet is on the LHS, on the RHS is the inlet to cool the automatic transmission cooler. Air exits the car via vents on the side of the front wing panels.

Air Filter sml.jpg Front Air Inlets sml.jpg

[kev100]

Cheers Rumbo, great stuff, essentially you have done what I plan, only I will have two cold air intakes, one where you have positioned yours, and the other at the opposite corresponding side, I see you have a single throttle body, I have attached an image of what I am designing which is ITB's, and as the runners for each bank come back over the rocker covers, I will have two airbox's, one either side, and will then feed down to the cold air intake either side, will 3D print a custom intake system.

The design is still a work in progress, but coming along

New manifold V1.2 Injectors v5.7.png