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Sheet metal for body repairs (and probably other questions later on)

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    Sheet metal for body repairs (and probably other questions later on)

    As I prepare for the renovation, just gathering some basics

    So what gauge sheet metal do I need for body repairs ?.. I am guessing that different areas will need different gauge depending on strength required ? I understand cold rolled is better than hot rolled, but is this the case for all areas.

    Will most likely buy panels for most of the repairs, but some of the areas, like the A posts, will need fabrication.

    Cheers
    Kev

    #2
    I found that cutting up the good bits of an old panel can be useful, sometimes the shapes edges and corners can be adapted to what you need,
    My car is 0.5% MGB!
    Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

    www.terryhunt.co.uk

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by trunt View Post
      I found that cutting up the good bits of an old panel can be useful, sometimes the shapes edges and corners can be adapted to what you need,
      My car is 0.5% MGB!
      I think you’ll find that the MGB donor parts are rejected by the host.
      Richard
      Mabel is a white 1972 Mk1½, TV8, Mo/d.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by mole42 View Post

        I think you’ll find that the MGB donor parts are rejected by the host.
        There's probably an anti-rejection additive you can put in the fuel tank ..

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by kev100 View Post
          So what gauge sheet metal do I need for body repairs ?
          When I went to car restoration evening class the general advice for classics up to 1980 ish was 18 gauge for panels (nearest standard metric thinkness is 1.2 mm) or 16 gauge for structural parts like inner sill repairs on the Stag (1.5mm). ISTR we were advised that after that most manufacturers started to introduce thinner high strength steel to save weight.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Philip Wardle View Post

            When I went to car restoration evening class the general advice for classics up to 1980 ish was 18 gauge for panels (nearest standard metric thinkness is 1.2 mm) or 16 gauge for structural parts like inner sill repairs on the Stag (1.5mm). ISTR we were advised that after that most manufacturers started to introduce thinner high strength steel to save weight.
            Thanks Philip, that aligns with what I have been researching, although I am learning from the school of youtube, so a quick checkback in reality is always a good thing to do

            Comment


              #7
              I use this for general body work:



              Use thicker (1.5mm or even 2mm) for structural/chassis parts. Zintech sheet has a corrosion resistant coating and is easy to weld to. Plain mild steel sheet will quickly develop a layer of rust in the garage which will need to be cleaned off to get a decent weld, Zintech stays "clean" for years, even in my damp garage near the sea!

              Now Stagless but have numerous car projects
              So many cars, so little time!

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by marshman View Post
                I use this for general body work:



                Use thicker (1.5mm or even 2mm) for structural/chassis parts. Zintech sheet has a corrosion resistant coating and is easy to weld to. Plain mild steel sheet will quickly develop a layer of rust in the garage which will need to be cleaned off to get a decent weld, Zintech stays "clean" for years, even in my damp garage near the sea!
                Great tip, will look into Zintech

                Comment


                  #9
                  Seem to recall warnings about breathing in fumes when welding zinc-plated steel, best read up on that.

                  But zintec was used a lot in my metal shop back when I was working, good stuff.
                  Header tanks - you can't beat a bit of bling.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by wilf View Post
                    Seem to recall warnings about breathing in fumes when welding zinc-plated steel, best read up on that.

                    But zintec was used a lot in my metal shop back when I was working, good stuff.
                    Not just Zintech (galvanised) but ALL mild steel welding .................. HSE now says to use breathing masks for pretty much all welding tasks:



                    or just hold your breath and weld quickly (#joke #banter not serious advice!)



                    Weld Fume Extraction: What You Really Need To Know


                    In February 2019, the UK Health and Safety Executive (HSE) issues a safety alert titled ‘Change in Enforcement Expectations for Mild Steel Welding Fume’.

                    We’ve always known that welding fume is nasty. However, the HSE’s bulletin (STSU1-2019) ups the stakes considerably. That’s because it’s based on important new scientific evidence from the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC). According to the IARC’s research, ‘exposure to mild steel welding fume can cause lung cancer and possibly kidney cancer in humans. The Workplace Health Expert Committee [an independent body that provides expert scientific and medical opinions on matters relating to workplace health] has endorsed the reclassification of mild steel welding fume as a human carcinogen.’

                    As a result of this, there has been a change in HSE enforcement expectations relating to the control of welding fume exposure. This includes exposure to mild steel welding fume. In turn, this has implications for the use of local exhaust ventilation, respiratory protective equipment and welding fume extraction. That’s what this article is all about.


                    Measures to help maintain the electrical safety and integrity of mains voltage powered fan blowers (imported from China) which could be use in wet conditions for inflating play equipment or advertising inflatables.



                    Now Stagless but have numerous car projects
                    So many cars, so little time!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I will just hold my breath, been doing it for years in the building trade with no noticeable side effects

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Another quick question ... MIG or TIG .. considering I have not done either (although I am a quick learn at pretty much anything) .. Pro's and cons, been watching a few vids, and the split seems to be 50/50 to which is better, although TIG seems to be less work (not so much post grinding, and a less hard weld to dress), and a cooler weld ?

                        I will be doing a lot of practicing whichever method I choose before I get onto the car

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Most hazardous thing when doing lots of welding is "sunburn", usually on the left forearm. Especially in the summer when wearing only a teeshirt. A couple of hours of body repairs leaves you a badly "burnt" arm from the UV radiated by the arc. I have now learnt and bought a pair of leather arm protectors. Also stops the swearing when hot bits jump out at you and leave little round burn marks up your arms.

                          Now Stagless but have numerous car projects
                          So many cars, so little time!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            The weld splodge always finds skin
                            Paul - 3 projects, 1 breaker - garage built and housing 2 white Stags. One runs, one doesn't

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by marshman View Post
                              Most hazardous thing when doing lots of welding is "sunburn", usually on the left forearm. Especially in the summer when wearing only a teeshirt. A couple of hours of body repairs leaves you a badly "burnt" arm from the UV radiated by the arc. I have now learnt and bought a pair of leather arm protectors. Also stops the swearing when hot bits jump out at you and leave little round burn marks up your arms.

                              https://www.workwearexpress.com/port...elding-sleeves
                              Excellent, will get some, my brother is an industrial welder so know all about the sunburn and burns from the hot metal .. he only does stick welding though so no good for Mig or Tig

                              Comment

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