Battery strap / battery mounting carrier

[David2269]

Just one last question (on the subject of batteries) the Varta E23 has the positive and negative connections the other way round and other than that is the same as the E24 and would keep the positive away from moving parts per NeilR’s comment above and the way the battery on my Stag was placed even though wrong size/type. Any views?

[022Dave]

I decided to change the orientation of the battery terminals some years ago, when I needed to replace the battery, for that very reason. I didn’t relish the excitement of an impromptu fireworks display from the battery positive cable getting intimate with the PAS pump pulley.

Dave

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[STypeR]

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original seems ok.

so many messed up battery terminals on stags though….even on £30k plus cars too.

Rare and very pleasing to see the factory leads still going strong!
You're not wrong about the amount of 'messed up' battery terminals even on '30k plus' cars as well. One of the worst areas for molestation in many classics.

Which I'm guilty of. I chopped my original 'positive' terminal off years ago, probably to add a thermal fan at the time. I've added a few more electrical systems since. Each time requiring a new bigger terminal.
Of course with every new terminal you end up loosing a bit of cable length. So if you've done this a few times the positive cable length gets to the point where its too short to reach the battery..

I've lost count of the hours I've spent splicing in a new positive cable extension (not ideal) to get the positive cable length right (so it also sits back in its factory correct position), working out the correct battery height to buy (for the clamp and both battery cables to fit correctly) and trying to find the best positive battery clamp for the myriad of systems I've added.
I've used all of the three of the positive outlets on the below. It's reasonable quality for the price:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/274640419401

[Philip Wardle]

Rare and very pleasing to see the factory leads still going strong!
You're not wrong about the amount of 'messed up' battery terminals even on '30k plus' cars as well. One of the worst areas for molestation in many classics.

Both original cables on my project car were totally mangled, with the positive lead having damaged insulation and exposed conductors at several points along its length including the vicinity of the steering pump pulley as is typical. I couldn't find a source for a new postive lead which included the connector block (Mk 2), nor could I find the connector block itself as a spare part. However, I was able to salvage the original block and transfer it to a length of new cable. It did require careful cleaning and soldering (using a fairly hefty 120W soldering iron), but this was very successful.

The housing of the connector block is in two halves which can be reinstated with a suitably sized machine screw and nut. At the battery end I sourced an OEM clamp and cover from a Land Rover supplier, and at the starter end fitted a right-angle terminal plus heat shrink with clerarance hole for the 5/16" stud on the starter. I added about five inches to the length of the cable from the connector block to the battery clamp, if using a battery with the original orientation of =ve and -ve posts this allows enough extra slack for the cable to be routed well away from the steering pump pulley.

[jbuckl]

Rare and very pleasing to see the factory leads still going strong!
You're not wrong about the amount of 'messed up' battery terminals even on '30k plus' cars as well. One of the worst areas for molestation in many classics.

Which I'm guilty of. I chopped my original 'positive' terminal off years ago, probably to add a thermal fan at the time. I've added a few more electrical systems since. Each time requiring a new bigger terminal.
Of course with every new terminal you end up loosing a bit of cable length. So if you've done this a few times the positive cable length gets to the point where its too short to reach the battery..

I've lost count of the hours I've spent splicing in a new positive cable extension (not ideal) to get the positive cable length right (so it also sits back in its factory correct position), working out the correct battery height to buy (for the clamp and both battery cables to fit correctly) and trying to find the best positive battery clamp for the myriad of systems I've added.
I've used all of the three of the positive outlets on the below. It's reasonable quality for the price:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/274640419401

There’s not much worse than car electrics that have been bodged , often scotch blocks & the like used everywhere.

[STypeR]

There’s not much worse than car electrics that have been bodged , often scotch blocks & the like used everywhere.

You're so right. Not only a terrible look but you're just asking for trouble.
Whoever invented scotch blocks needs to go back to engineering school.
I see them on the shelves of speed shops all the time. Not sure who buys them?

[gbb483]

I've used them recently. Once to temporarily connect some circuits to a power source to test them. Secondly to connect a ceiling light to the mains supply.

[Philip Wardle]

The genuine 3M™ Scotchlok™ insulation displacement comnectors are widely immitated, ir's these that often seem to appear in DIY auto wiring. I still wouldn't use even the genuine article in auto wiring though.

[gbb483]

The genuine 3M™ Scotchlok™ insulation displacement comnectors are widely immitated, ir's these that often seem to appear in DIY auto wiring. I still wouldn't use even the genuine article in auto wiring though.

Ah, now those are a pain. It doesn't take long for them to loosen their grip on the wire and go open circuit.