Clip fixing for moulding

[torque2me]

Hi all,

Just trying to re-fix the mouldings after a re-paint jobbie. :-)

Horseshoe moulding o.k. on the rear as the clips settle into raised moulds within the horseshoe creating a nice tight squeeze fit. The front ones are another story. Anyway, I had to purchase a new 712730 front lower moulding as I couldn't locate the old one. The original clip part number is 624151 which is NLA now and the replacement is GHF1150 (is that a MG p/n?).. The 712730 moulding does not have raised internal "humps" like the horseshoe does and thus it seems I would need to slide the required number of GHF1150 within the sides of the moulding. Hmmmm, they don't want to "insert" so I'm guessing that is not the way to go.

Can anyone give me some pointer to how to go about the re-fixing with new clips?

Kev
p.s.
Also what is the difference between a Mk.1
and a Mk.2 door?

[ramjam2005]

Hi Kev
There's been past debates on best method to re-fixing front horseshoe/chromes. A search on here will pull up past posts. I done mine decades ago so had the original BL clips readily available and new chromes, but did cover the freshly painted panel edges with 3M adhesive ally foil first at the clips contact points and packed out the back of the chromes with black dum dum putty to prevent water ingress.
Many now favour simply using silicone sealant instead of the clips, held on with masking tape till it cures - again prevents water sitting behind and saves carving up the paint with the sharp clip teeth.

As for Mk1 and Mk2 door difference, it's mainly on the lock configuration.
Mk1 the door lock is fixed with 3 screws and a slam/striker plate on the B post. I'm more familiar with this as mine is Mk1.
Mk2 the lock is different and fixed with 4 screws and a Hoop catch on the B post. A Mk2 owner will confirm I'm sure.
The result is the doors aren't really interchangeable - well not without major butchery to adapt the lock mounting.I believe there may even be some minor shape difference with the door handle aperture of the door skins.

Ray

[torque2me]

Hi Kev
There's been past debates on best method to re-fixing front horseshoe/chromes. A search on here will pull up past posts. I done mine decades ago so had the original BL clips readily available and new chromes, but did cover the freshly painted panel edges with 3M adhesive ally foil first at the clips contact points and packed out the back of the chromes with black dum dum putty to prevent water ingress.
Many now favour simply using silicone sealant instead of the clips, held on with masking tape till it cures - again prevents water sitting behind and saves carving up the paint with the sharp clip teeth.

As for Mk1 and Mk2 door difference, it's mainly on the lock configuration.
Mk1 the door lock is fixed with 3 screws and a slam/striker plate on the B post. I'm more familiar with this as mine is Mk1.
Mk2 the lock is different and fixed with 4 screws and a Hoop catch on the B post. A Mk2 owner will confirm I'm sure.
The result is the doors aren't really interchangeable - well not without major butchery to adapt the lock mounting.I believe there may even be some minor shape difference with the door handle aperture of the door skins.

Ray

Thanks for that Ray. It's only the front horseshoes that are a bit iffy, the rear ones are solid.

I can't see how GHF1150 can be inserted into the lipped 712730 easily. Looks more like they need to be slid in but they appear too big to do so ;-( You were fortunate to get the original one's specified by Triumph. Unipart, as we know, have had to do a load of part substitutions. I can understand the adoption of "alternative" methods.

As for my door query, I have a pair of door shells and don't know what to describe them as if I decide to sell them.

cheers,

Kev