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First you need a decent campervan/motor home. We had until recently a campvan conversion based on a Fiat Ducato with the 2.8 litre JTD diesel and that was superb. Used to tow a twin wheeled trailer with my dads cars on it, never struggled on hills at motorway speeds and still returned over 25 mpg. A friend has a Motor home based on a Fiat Ducato chassis with the 2.3 litre diesel and that struggles to haul itself along the motorway - the extra drag of the motor home body really slows things down, let alone pull a car behind.
The next issue is weight. Most motorhomes "sail" very close to their maximum vehicle weight so add a towbar reduces what you can carry in the vehicle. Campervan conversions have a bit more "headroom" in terms of weight it not interms of internal height. Not sure what their train weight and towing capacity are. Ours had a towing capacity of 1600kg, though most of the time I know we towed more than that. A Stag weighs about 1200kg plus the trailer weight which will be around 4 to 500kg, so all up around 1600 to 1700kg. So before you comit to a motorhome make sure it can legally cope.
Now onto what you tow behind.:
1. I think an A frame is a non starter - there are legal regulations on them but basically the Stag with A frame fitted is considered to be a complete unit, i.e. a trailer so must meet construction and use regulations and most importantly because the whole unit will weigh over 750kg must have operating brakes. The Stag will have to be modified to allow the attachment of the A frame and also for the correct operation of the over run brakes. There are specialist firms but they are geared up to modify small modern cars to tow behind motorhomes.
2. A towing dolly is OK for emergency breakdown recovery work, but they are quite heavy and a decent braked one - which you must have - will cost as much as a trailer. Also the rear wheels of the car are still in contact with the road which may be an issue if you have an auto Stag, especially one with a BW35 box, you will also have to attach a light board to the rear of the car.
3. Trailer, would be my preferred option but the they are big - by necessity longer and much wider than your car so you need to have the space to store it when not in use. But probably the easiest in terms of car loading, braking and it has the lights fitted so no messing with the car at all other than strapping it to the trailer. There is usually room on the trailer to carry other items as well - overspill from the motorhome!
HTH
Roger
Now Stagless but have numerous car projects
So many cars, so little time!
First you need a decent campervan/motor home. We had until recently a campvan conversion based on a Fiat Ducato with the 2.8 litre JTD diesel and that was superb. Used to tow a twin wheeled trailer with my dads cars on it, never struggled on hills at motorway speeds and still returned over 25 mpg. A friend has a Motor home based on a Fiat Ducato chassis with the 2.3 litre diesel and that struggles to haul itself along the motorway - the extra drag of the motor home body really slows things down, let alone pull a car behind.
The next issue is weight. Most motorhomes "sail" very close to their maximum vehicle weight so add a towbar reduces what you can carry in the vehicle. Campervan conversions have a bit more "headroom" in terms of weight it not interms of internal height. Not sure what their train weight and towing capacity are. Ours had a towing capacity of 1600kg, though most of the time I know we towed more than that. A Stag weighs about 1200kg plus the trailer weight which will be around 4 to 500kg, so all up around 1600 to 1700kg. So before you comit to a motorhome make sure it can legally cope.
Now onto what you tow behind.:
1. I think an A frame is a non starter - there are legal regulations on them but basically the Stag with A frame fitted is considered to be a complete unit, i.e. a trailer so must meet construction and use regulations and most importantly because the whole unit will weigh over 750kg must have operating brakes. The Stag will have to be modified to allow the attachment of the A frame and also for the correct operation of the over run brakes. There are specialist firms but they are geared up to modify small modern cars to tow behind motorhomes.
2. A towing dolly is OK for emergency breakdown recovery work, but they are quite heavy and a decent braked one - which you must have - will cost as much as a trailer. Also the rear wheels of the car are still in contact with the road which may be an issue if you have an auto Stag, especially one with a BW35 box, you will also have to attach a light board to the rear of the car.
3. Trailer, would be my preferred option but the they are big - by necessity longer and much wider than your car so you need to have the space to store it when not in use. But probably the easiest in terms of car loading, braking and it has the lights fitted so no messing with the car at all other than strapping it to the trailer. There is usually room on the trailer to carry other items as well - overspill from the motorhome!
HTH
Roger
You could rent a trailer if storage is a problem, our local hire place does a decent trailer for about £180 a week
Paul - 3 projects, 1 breaker - garage built and housing 2 white Stags. One runs, one doesn't
An A frame is not the best option IMO cant reverse with them as well as the probems already listed and if the Stag is an auto youcan only tow them a short distance. I would also discount the dolly for similar reasons. I would go for the trailer every time, but check on the motorhomes wieghts and towing caperbillities as most motorhomes are running very close to their gross weights
Thanks all.
Realised after posting query the issue with +750Kg " trailers" needing independant braking DOH! so A frame deffo out. Take the point about dolly option being primarily short haul and although i'm an ex HGV driving instructor towing\ reversing wouldn' t be an issue ...although the move to a campervan has been prompted by the boss's growing concern about towing the caravan and my driving skills/eyesight/perception/reactions etc etc etc inevitebily decreasing make trailer purchase or rent the best option.
Again many thanks all
So if you see a '74 plate saphire blue stag on a shiny trailer behind a motorhome give us a wave and say " hey, i know that bloke".
Is the car auto or manual? ISTR you can't tow an auto for more than 20 miles without disconnecting the propshaft, and that under 30mph.
Yes indeed, this advice appears on page 32 of the 1972 Driver’s Handbook which came with my 1973 car:
" For local recovery, the vehicle can be towed to a maximum distance of 20 miles [32 km) at a speed NOT EXCEEDING 30 m.p.h. (48 km/h) provided that the transmission is undamaged, the oil level is correct and the selector lever is at 'N’.
If the transmission unit is damaged, or if the towing distance will exceed 20 miles (32 km) the propeller shaft must first be completely removed and the rear end of the transmission sealed to prevent the entry of dust, mud or water. Alternatively, the car can be towed while the rear wheels are lifted. "
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