Replacing soft-top frame (and Hood?)

[GregT]

Looking for some thought and advice on hoods! I have a long standing problem with my soft top hood closing. It takes two people usually, to close it or a great deal of effort and time for one. It was like this when I bought it 3 years ago and despite being made a lot easier by Jim Van Gent at South East Fittings, who used his decades of experience to know where to twist and turn the frame to give me greater confidence in taking the roof down knowing I could put it up again if it rained while on my own. But...It is still not great and several times sudden changes in weather have caught me out. It's the last centimetre or so to get the catches to engage that's the problem - requires manhandling on both sides at the same time ideally, to do the job quickly. So, I have a dilemma that I'd welcome advice on.

The soft top itself is lovely - great condition, looks virtually new, much admired by other Stag owners for its fit, especially the slightly deeper 'skirt' at the back over the boot than any other hood I recall seeing. So I'd like to keep it, or replace it with one very similar.

I have a new frame, bought about 2 years ago, but stored in the garage. I am told that if one replaces the frame, then the soft top needs to be replaced at the same time - in other words tales of warning that to fit an existing hood is not a good idea.

Question 1) Is that really the case, or does it really mean just finding a soft top specialist who knows how to do this properly? If so, any recommendations within an hour of NW London?

Question 2) does my description of the style of the current hood ring a bell with anyone? Which supplier makes this type of 'differentiated' hood (with the deeper skirt)? I don't have the car near to measure it, but it is noticeably deeper in real life.

Question 3) If I can keep the existing hood, the tab on the window zip has broken off recently - I know with care one can fold the roof down into the stowage compartment without unzipping it, as I'm doing, any ideas as to how to replace the tab in situ? It was always a bit of a struggle to zip it up and in rushing in the last downpour I probably used too much force! The hole for the tab to fit into is now open.

Question 4) Any 'gotchas' I need to be aware of if I do get the new frame fitted? (with or without a new hood).. I don't have any other fittings other than the hinges that come as part of the frame.

I'd try Jim again - but it is a long drive from where I live (Pinner NW London) to his place, especially as I'd probably have to leave the car overnight at least and trail back and forth by train. Fed up with being caught in the rain and me and the car being drenched in sudden downpours! And with new carpets fitted last week, that's even more important!

Thanks as ever for any good, experienced advice!

Greg
Rear View Skirt.jpg Side View Skirt.jpg

[jbuckl]

Tbf it’s worth the trip to Jim.

using a less experienced/ more convenient place isn’t going to usually be worth it.

I’ve had to try fixing badly bodged hoods where cheaper /less experienced/ more convenient places were just winging it.

‘professional’ means nothing when it comes to experience or quality.

[FrenchStag]

Based on my recent experience it would be a risk to try and swap your old hood onto a different frame, especially if the material has been trimmed away to suit the previous frame. I would buy a new hood from Aldridge and get a professional to fit your new frame & hood to the car. Unless you have lots and lots of spare time and infinite patience

[Rigid]

Try taking the B post seals out of the frame and see if it is easier to pull the front catches into place. I bought new ones and they held the whole thing too far away from the front of the car.

I know the hood supplied by S E Trimming, ie Jim has a deeper skirt than the original so it might be one of his design.

[Rigid]

If it is the catches at the rear that need the extra 10mm perhaps you’ll need to reposition them. Iredrilled/tapped mine to move them towards the rear which improved their catchiness

[NeilR]

I had a similar issue when I changed all hood seals, b post seals were thicker than what existed and also seem to make it more difficult to engage front catches.
My workaround is to stand on the sills & push down harder, I think the new seals will compress with use, just not for a while as the hood will be down most of the time till winter.

[Wheelz]

I don't understand why you still have the problem if you have already been to Jim and had it reworked. Are you pulling the cover back out of the frame when stowing? I suspect it is getting trapped in there. Either that of your frame is distorted as 90% of them are.

[jbuckl]

For anyone trying to do this for the first time…. Fit the hood to the b post first…. Fit the vertical seal…. Check it locates as expected.

Fit the rear rail next, with the seal, check it locates as expected.

only then fit front rail, seals and side seals.

At least that’s the sequence that has worked for me , after a few hood fits…. And yes, the first attempts were massive learning curves.

Thats why it’s so unwise to use a general trimmer with no stag experience.

Grateful to have watched a marvellous demonstration years ago at billing aquadrome. About 30 minutes In total!!!!

my last hood fabric swap (used) took two days / 16 hours…. New is loads easier than used!

the swap was necessary because a trimmer had poorly fitted a new hood to an unprepared frame.

pop rivet length checks are necessary.

repair washers can be helpful 1/8” where holes have been (unnecessarily) enlarged previously.

heavy duty spray glue is a real boon. Unforgiving for repositioning though.

regular spray trim adhesive can be a trouble some detractor.

front rail needs short reach rivets and a small diameter extended length rivet gun nozzle…. Otherwise the seal retainer obviscates the operation

[Wheelz]

Agreed. Fit the B-post flaps first, then the rear, then the front. I prefer not to rivet anything until I am sure I have the cover in the best position. Aim to remove all creases including window, however this is only possible if a) the frame is straight & true b) the cover is a quality one e.g. Aldridge Trimming. Use the cover stitch lines as a guide to the correct position on the frame.

Trim the roof flaps to size before fitting the cover makes it easier and neater (they overlap) and use plenty of HT glue as these get hot in the sun.

Use high temp & heavy duty adhesive only (the sun can melt some normal contact adhesives).

I take my hat off to anyone who has to fit the cover while the frame is on the car though!

[SteveD]

Chris, can you recommend a suitable HT adhesive. Thanks.
Steve.

[Wheelz]

Chris, can you recommend a suitable HT adhesive. Thanks.
Steve.

I use Trim Fix spray adhesive. Needs care as the overspray can catch you out!

[FrenchStag]

I managed to do the hood with the frame on the car. The notice said only attempt to fit the hood if you know what you are doing, but you have to learn somehow.
I did rear rail first, then front rail, and finally the B post flaps, which probably explains the slight gap!

My rear window is nothing like wrinkle free...

But it opens, it stows, the tonneau cover closes and it's a million times better than before so I am very happy.

But much poorer than if I had just paid someone.

I had to grind down the riveter head so it would fit between the retaining strips. Oh, and don't paint the frame with Hammerite as the glue (I got through a very large tin of Bostik contact adhesive) is the only thing that will actually dissolve that stuff!

[NeilR]

Mine looks very similar to that apart from the window is far better on yours, mine is like a bent piece of sheet steel and about as flexible.

[GregT]

Tbf it’s worth the trip to Jim.

using a less experienced/ more convenient place isn’t going to usually be worth it.

I’ve had to try fixing badly bodged hoods where cheaper /less experienced/ more convenient places were just winging it.

‘professional’ means nothing when it comes to experience or quality.

Thanks - Yes, I am usually of the opinion that getting experience is better than not. I wouldn't try to fit it myself - I was more interested as to whether the opinion that it IS necessary to fit a new hood with a new frame really. At least first and foremost. The question of then what hood to buy was secondary. Being pragmatic, it's not likely to matter so long as it is a reputable maker - it's just that I'm pleased as punch when so many owners ask me where I got the current hood because of the 'skirt' depth looking such a good fit. Gives me a feature that makes my car stand out a tad!

I'm not likely to ever buy a hood or much else where appearance matters, else to save money. Cheap is what you get, in my experience!

I'll report back on the outcome in the end.

Greg

[GregT]

Based on my recent experience it would be a risk to try and swap your old hood onto a different frame, especially if the material has been trimmed away to suit the previous frame. I would buy a new hood from Aldridge and get a professional to fit your new frame & hood to the car. Unless you have lots and lots of spare time and infinite patience

Hm. Despite retirement, time is a perennial problem, don't ask... Patience is not my strong point and I'd never do this myself. Too big a risk - a new hood will be c£500 and I paid similar for the frame, so no intention of risking not getting the best result. As I've mentioned it was trying to get a similar looking hood that interested me. From a practical side so long as it keeps the rain off and looks nice, it doesn't matter - but the current hood does look particularly good when up so if I found one with similar 'skirt at the back' I'd be drawn to it.