Coolant in cylinders 6 and 8

[Taz2204]

Hi, i know this has been brought up before but im just after a bit of experienced pointers on the symptoms applying to my car. I'm not familiar with the TV8.

Purchased car recently, stalled project, only used about 500 miles in last 20 yrs.

So the following:

Coolant blowing out of 6 and 8 when plugs removed.
Cold (no hot figures) Compression test shows psi of:
1 - 195 2 - 170
3 - 190 4 - 185
5 - 175 6 - 190
7 - 190 8 - 185

whistling sound - but air filter and vacuum pipes not attached - so i originally thought it was vacuum noise
Oil pressure good generally 25-30 tickover hot
Sounds very quiet overall
Oil dip stick shows clean oil but there is traces of emulsified oil in the oil filler cap.
Up until finding above, running the car short runs to fault find (up to temp then 3-4 miles)
Coolant running through radiator about 85 degree's measured at cap and cools when revved
Temp Gauge - faulty reads in red as soon as warm despite thermostat (new) open and everything pointing to it not overheating

I'm miles away from my workshop at my home to drive it there so i'm thinking, as the compression is normal on 6 and 8 that it could likely be the inlet manifold? If it was the gasket i would imagine lower compression on those 2 cylinders???

The inlet gasket can be done at home but not the head gasket.

I'm reluctant to get it stripped down to do the inlet only to find that i was being stupidly optimist at it not being the head gasket and have to arrange shipping to my garage unit.

To top it off i did my back in a couple of days ago otherwise i'd have got stuck in

Any experience on this would be appreciated.

Is it more likely its the inlet or more likely the head gasket?

Cheers
Mike

[wilf]

Do a "block test" on the coolant - to see if there are combustion gases present in it. If so, a clear indication of head gasket failure. If not, probably inlet manifold. Cheap kits on eBay.

[Lingen]

Taz. All those compression figures look good, so I reckon it is almost certainly an inlet manifold gasket, which is a far more common failure than a head gasket.
There is nothing to be lost by taking the manifold off to check, as it would have to come off anyway to do a head gasket.
Mike.

[Taz2204]

Thanks for the advice Wilf, i'll order one and test it, makes sense now you say it but i didn't think despite also reading it on another post. I'm losing it.....must be the heat....
Lingen, I will get the inlet parts, looks like you think same as me and its worth a try. I think i was just after someone agreeing with my theory :-)
I've never owned a triumph before let alone a 3.0 V8 and the engine is quite different to my experience with VW air cooled and fords. Got a lot of learning to do!
Many thanks.

I will post my findings once i do the block test and get it apart, but it may be a while until my back to recovers!

[Mark S]

There should be drainage cuts in the rear inlet gaskets to drain leaks into the vee rather than the intake. Some gaskets don't have these but the gaskets without offer more sealing surface area. Place the cleaned manifold in the vee and check it doesn't rock and fits flush to the heads. May be best to buy a range of inlet gaskets as some are thicker than others which means the holes may not line up. Don't underestimate what a pig of a job it is getting the manifold back on and getting the bolts started with both heads in place.

With the engine being inactive for such a long time, as a minimum, check the waterways for contamination/corrosion/deposits and also take the water pump cover off to check there is no crap in there. If it's bad, you may be wise to go further, Whilst in there re-build the pump with new bearing and mechanical seal.

[Taz2204]

Thanks Mark, i'm not going to underestimate the manifold job, i've seen enough on here to hint its a pig. Thanks for the advice much appreciated, i will order a range of gasket as you suggest and i will check the water pump also!

[wilf]

There is another , recent thread about the inlet manifold where all the tips and tricks for them are listed in the various replies. While you have it off, replace the core plug on its underside, too. They can rot and leak and it is an easy fix.

[Taz2204]

Right, i got it, hadn't done much navigating on the website before. I see all the previous threads now in the search now im searching correctly. Very useful, I'll get there in the end.......

[wilf]

Just in case you missed it, it was here: https://socforum.com/forum/forum/sta...-manifold-help

[Taz2204]

Update, unfortunately block test points to head gasket, off with its head planned. I'll update how it goes (for/if anyone interested)

Thanks to all for advice!

[flying farmer]

I would do both head gaskets. Some years ago I had a cooling system pressurisation problem and didn’t know which side was responsible. On removing the heads both gaskets fire rings had failed at the back of the rear cylinders. If one gasket has failed the other probably isn’t far behind. Best of luck with removing the heads

[Taz2204]

Thanks, i'll see how i get on, if it comes off in quickly and one piece i'll do the other

[Taz2204]

Update, the inlet manifold practically fell off but wasn't obviously leaking, ever had that feeling someone has been in here before????, recent gaskets/sealant etc hmmm

2 Broken sockets later, i have 2 stuck solid head bolts awaiting a delivery of impact sockets. It took 2 of us, me (not that strong) and someone very strong to break the sockets with a breaker bar and 1 metre tube on it??

All nuts came off studs fairly easy but i haven't managed to remove one single stud! Tried 2 nuts trick, dried threads, can't fit 3 nuts on (not head nuts anyway), Soaked in everything going for days, diesel, home made concoction, plusgas.... really struggling with access getting a spanner in with extension tube on.

Need space, heat, a decent mig and then probs an engine hoist after all that. Think the lumps going to have to come out realistically

i'm stuck with the basic tackle i have at my house and don't think i can complete the stud removal here. My final option is to get the car recovered to my old unit 75 miles away (c£150), remove the engine and start trying all over again

Does anyone know of someone/company who could assist getting the head off (with engine still in the vehicle) in my area, Warrington, at reasonable cost?

Cheers

[jbuckl]

There are methods to get the heads up far enough to cut the studs.

75mm angle iron and 2 bottle jacks to name one.

there is a sketch for the angle iron cutting and drilling.

the heavy duty head pulling tools need the studs to be intact.

the head bolts usually give in or snap low down.

use hex sockets not bi hex.

get a silver line stud extractor tool (£11-13 on eBay) marvellous tool.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/156327771248?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=EAIaIQobChMI29vtjN3jhwMVapRQBh2ctg19EAQYAiABEgJfsPD_BwE

[Taz2204]

Good to know what works and what doesn't. I've seen the angle iron in action on youtube. That guy is impressive. Plus i've seen the Rimmer clips which say unscrew them with a screwdriver...hahaha

I'll have a look at the stud extractor, not seen that before so there may be another new tool on order, already got hex head sockets, they were the ones that broke but still not up to it hence impact sockets on way. Had Bi-hex also but didn't want to risk rounding.

Appreciate the advice!