Rattle front wheel?

[bonnietiler750]

I'm over in the Isle Of Man and have a rhythmical rattle, it increases in pace as the wheel rotates faster, but completely disappears when the brakes are applied, any ideas?

[gbb483]

Back or front? If the back, what happens if you apply the handbrake? It could be the handbrake linkage inside the drum has come apart.

Otherwise - dodgy wheel bearing.

[Philip Wardle]

If front +1 on wheel bearing - had exactly this on a Morris Marina. The brake disc is wobbling on the wheel bearings, but applying the brake constrains the wobble and damps the noise.

[gbb483]

Back or front?

Didn't read the title.

[bonnietiler750]

Thanks for the advice, I shall investigate on my return.
many thanks

[DJT]

Raise the front wheel and check for wheel bearing play - hold the wheel at the 12/6 o'clock positions and see if it can be wobbled. If there is play, and the bearing feels smooth whilst rotating the wheel, then you could try tightening it up a bit. Don't over tighten, there should be just a hint of play in the taper bearings.

If you can get to the Isle of Man Motor Museum at Jurby, they have a large workshop. They were happy to show me around recently and may well offer help/advice if you approach them nicely. They are mostly volunteers and car nuts!

IMG_2983.jpg

[bonnietiler750]

Just to report back, all wheels seemed quite sound when grasped and twisted at St John's on yhe Isle of Man, the noise though, remained. Car worked perfectly and handled well, we boarded the Manxman and visited my Son in Ulverston, noise still present, then the 100 mile M6 trip home. On getting within 5 miles from home the noise began to get louder, we slowed down and got home satisfactorily. Ahem...on close inspection the nearside front (exactly the opposite wheel that I imagined the fault to be on) was quite loose. I have Wire wheels fitted and the studs had worked loose, as a result all holes in the Wheel adaptor and the hub had been worn oval and required replacement. I sourced an original Hub/bearing and seal, 4 x studs, 4 x nuts and a new Splined adaptor for a total of £120, jacked the car up, removed the wheel, then the caliper, hub dust cover and nut, slid off the old (demic) hub, removed the disc and pressed the new bearings into the new (nos) hub, refitted disc I heated the hub in the oven for 15 minutes, found a suitable socket that could be used as a drift and pressed the bearings home, inserted the studs, replaced the caliper, tightened the hub nut after applying a suitable quantity of bearing grease to the rollers, and all is well again....Valuable lesson learned though, could have been nasty! Stag never missed a beat mechanically (engine wise) 24mpg (Auto) used no oil or water..6 years as a daily driver 32,000 miles, timing chain remains silent, oil changed annually

[mole42]

I remember Dad losing a rear wheel from an Alvis TA14 many years ago and I lost a front wheel from a Triumph 2.5PI on a roundabout, both due to a failure to check the wheel nuts. Since the last incident 45 years ago I’ve been quite diligent about making sure the wheels don’t fall off.