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Easy enough to separate the 2 discs from the shaft to give them a good clean with carb cleaner and the wife's toothbrush. Reassemble and then give the shaft a very light tap with a thin screw driver and hammer to secure it in place.
Be sure that the disc with the holes in it it perfectly flat and do try to reinstall it back onto the shaft the right way around..
Similarly when you refit to the carb body and before the control arms are attached it is possible to get them 180degrees out.
Don't bother with the ring shaped paper gasket. Never yet had one leak fuel after refitting, a smear of hylomar is usually enough. Factory never used a gasket, that I have been able to find anyway.
Fuel should never get as far as the bush that the shaft runs through
Once everything is back together be sure that you can fully open the cold start module and that it springs fully closed. If is doesn't then there is something wrong.
Richard, I have watched your youtube videos which are very useful (subscribed and liked). Long time since I did anything with Strombergs, that was back in the day when I had a Vauxhall Viva.
Gibbons had certainly been at work on some of the electrics on my Stag, sorted now. I will find out if the same gibbons have been at work on the carbs when I take them off the car, fingers crossed.
LOL - "poka yoke" - haven't heard that one for a while, it was a term (and a procedure) I often employed back in my manufacturing days. And you are correct - it is very easy to get the choke disc orientation wrong, the very opposite of poka yoke .
LOL - "poka yoke" - haven't heard that one for a while, it was a term (and a procedure) I often employed back in my manufacturing days. And you are correct - it is very easy to get the choke disc orientation wrong, the very opposite of poka yoke .
never heard of poka yoka before, but then my background is computing project management,.... wish I had known it!
flippin makes sense to me
Stags and Range Rover Classics - I must be a loony
I worked on a members stag that was recently preciously ‘seen to’ / repaired.
The choke could not be operated almost at all.
The right hand carb choke was sticking to the point it couldn’t be operated.
It was not the cable… it was the disc / spindle.
Just saying.
ah ha
two tricks here. firstly early choke setup (not seen it yet on a stag) relied on a solid cable rather than a multistrand (bike brake cable) style. the outer sheath had to be clamped tight so that the inner solid inner could both push and pull the lever on the choke...
second trick... Expensive thought those pesky bean counters (guess) so they added a spring to the choke module that forced it to rotate back to rest all by itself. All that the ... much cheaper mult strand cable then had to do was pull the thing open. Then of course when tension is released it would naturally spring back to rest.
So guessing that your issue was that there was no spring or that there was something fundamentally wrong with the choke you serviced.
When you set up the carb, if the choke doesn't spring back to rest under the tension of the spring then the multistrand cable certainly isn't going to do it.
fix the choke, get it working and then the operating cable would be my recommendation
Stags and Range Rover Classics - I must be a loony
two tricks here. firstly early choke setup (not seen it yet on a stag) relied on a solid cable rather than a multistrand (bike brake cable) style. the outer sheath had to be clamped tight so that the inner solid inner could both push and pull the lever on the choke...
second trick... Expensive thought those pesky bean counters (guess) so they added a spring to the choke module that forced it to rotate back to rest all by itself. All that the ... much cheaper mult strand cable then had to do was pull the thing open. Then of course when tension is released it would naturally spring back to rest.
So guessing that your issue was that there was no spring or that there was something fundamentally wrong with the choke you serviced.
When you set up the carb, if the choke doesn't spring back to rest under the tension of the spring then the multistrand cable certainly isn't going to do it.
fix the choke, get it working and then the operating cable would be my recommendation
No … the mechanism was seized when the cable was removed….
I repair choke cables with 1.5mm Bowden multi strand.
usually Capable of resisting most ham - fisted gibbons and returning to off….. slightly off topic though.
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