About to change gearbox...

[Chix]

Hi team,

I'm about to swap out my knackered gearbox to a reconditioned one.

Any advice? I've spotted a couple of helpful YouTube videos and have the owners manual as well as the Haynes manual to go by...

Would anyone recommend things like 'Oh while you've got that off, you might as well do this..."

I'm already going to install a new clutch, anything else? Any words of wisdom?

Thanks team!

Chix

[NeilR]

Crank Oil Seal definately, false economy not to, you may need to fit a Speedi Sleeve as well if end of crank is grooved.
Cross shaft bushes if any signs of play but I guess your replacement gearbox should come with those anyway.
May be worth changing the spigot bush as well.
Fit gearbox alignment dowls when re-installing the box.

[sujitroy]

replace the 4 transmission bracket mounts bracket to car body ones

[Chris01573]

Ive just done mine Chix. I had the use of a two post lift though. If you don't have a lift then all i will say is try and get your stag as far off the floor as you can !...

Basically I started inside and removed the gearstick and the wiring connectors to the O/D Solenoid and the two switches (reverse and O/D Inhibit) Then I removed the drive shaft and exhaust downpipes on both sides leaving the centre box in place but with a strap round it to keep it from dropping. Then the rear bracket for the gearbox allowing it to drop down at the back, I found that a piece of cardboard between the fan and the rad was enough to protect the rad and even with the gearbox all the way down at the back with the heads up against the firewall the fan blades touched the cardboard and flexed a bit but did not damage the rad. I left a bolt each side of the bellhousing in place that were easy to get to i then started by removing all the top bolts that I could reach from the top, then I went to the bottom and went for all the bolts I could not reach from the top. I found that the ability to lift the back of the gearbox up and down easily (using a transmission jack) made it fairly straight fowards to get to all the bolts, I did this with the distributor in place although removing it would make life easier for that one horrible bolt behind the L/H head. I had some long and short standard spanners and then a number of 1/4 ratchet and extension combos to get on all the various bolts.

I have hands like a pair of Christmas hams so if you are more svelt than me you will problably find it easier than I did :-) A good selection of spanners, extension bars etc are a must.

Things to watch out for.

Unclip the brake pipe where it goes across the crossmember and bend it down and out of the way.
When you first lower the tail of the gearbox check you are not squashing any pipes or electrical wiring against the firewall and if its in the way move it.

Good luck ! Taking it out is easier than putting it all back in BTW. I found putting the bolts through then holding the bolt head tight to the bellhousing with a pry bar whilst doing up the nut very useful for the top bolts. And for gods sake don't put nylocks on !

[NeilR]

You don't need it that high, just enough to slide the gearbox out form under the car & back in.
Always done it with a small trolley jack (including yesterday), with a homemade gearbox support (which broke yesterday) at approx the correct angle.

[Goldstar]

Neil the flying farmer has tapped the awkward to reach holes in the bell housing to make getting the bolts back in a lot easier.

[Davem62]

I've used Neil's tip and done 3 boxes now , but I tap all the bolt holes and use cap screws , makes life a lot easier.

[jakesmig]

Not a Stag, but the gearbox in the Mk2 Escort I service can be in and out of the car several times a season, or even during an event, and all the bellhouing / engine and gearbox / bellhousing fixings are all cap screws. The restrictions of the tunnel shape and location of exhaust manifold dictates that the box comes off the bellhousing, and if you need to get to the clutch the bellhousing comes off after the box is cleared out.
After several years of good but hasty and brutal use the box / bellhousing threads were sloppy and barely useable. They had been rethreaded several times and at the end of a season the threaded holes were drilled out and threaded inserts were installed.
Big mistake, every time the car was used through stages the gearbox came loose, didnt matter if spring washers etc were used, the box needed tightened at every service, which is generally every 40 miles or so.
A new bellhousing sorted the problem. The thread in the bellhousing is quite long, whereas the threaded insert is short which may be responsible for the fault. Perhaps a selt tapping longer insert would have worked properly, we will never know.

[stonedrive]

Hi everyone, I will soon be removing my engine to make it easier to work on, but what are cap screws because if it’s going to make things a lot easier I will consider using them when engine goes back in. Where is the best place to purchase these. Many thanks Steve

[jbuckl]

Hi everyone, I will soon be removing my engine to make it easier to work on, but what are cap screws because if it’s going to make things a lot easier I will consider using them when engine goes back in. Where is the best place to purchase these. Many thanks Steve

Must be used with washers…. Under bolt head surface area is too small with cap heads.

consider spalding fasteners or Kayfast on eBay

[richardthestag]

probably worth reminding everyone what gearbox / engine you have fitted to your stag Chix

[Chix]

probably worth reminding everyone what gearbox / engine you have fitted to your stag Chix

Thanks mate,

It's a Stag 4 speed with A-type overdrive, Ford Essex V6.

It's going well so far!!

[Chix]

So I seem to have some kind of plastic or similar material as an 'insert' to my gearbox tunnel. Like insulation...

I did a bit of digging and found this helpful thread:

https://socforum.com/forum/forum/stag-owners-club/soc-forum/18274-gearbox-tunnel-insulation

So going by this, I'm going to get rid of the mess that is mine, it's all falling to bits and running against the speedo cable.

Would anyone recommend an alternative? Might just try spraying some underseal once I've cleaned it all up and leaving it at that!

[mole42]

I used this: https://www.carinsulation.co.uk/prod...ening-deadener cut to size and stuck to the underside of the gearbox tunnel. It works well.

[Chix]

I used this: https://www.carinsulation.co.uk/prod...ening-deadener cut to size and stuck to the underside of the gearbox tunnel. It works well.

This is perfect, thanks! Have ordered.