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ROM says to open a bleed nipple on the opposite axle to which the shuttle is displaced and press the brake pedal until the shuttle is felt to click back to centre. Close nipple and release brake.
If the ignition is on the brake light will dim when the shuttle centralises.
A reasonable reply - you don't really need a light to tell you your brake pedalis going south much further than normal when that wall is looming ever larger in your windscreen......
A reasonable reply - you don't really need a light to tell you your brake pedalis going south much further than normal when that wall is looming ever larger in your windscreen......
I read of cases where the pdwa has caused the problems not warned of them through the o rings leaking ,some people remove the plastic part and block them off so they can't leak.i've just replaced the o rings in the pdwaand given the whole brake system an overhaul and shall continue to maintain it .
actually it would be interesting to find out how many owners on here have been warned of brake problems from the pdwa ,i might change my view if there have been a few.i'll start a poll.
Thanks Pete for that - I shall have a go at fixing it once this arctic weather moves away from North Yorkshire and makes it way towards the affluent south. By the way, I had a look in my ROM but could see no mention of the PDWA.
I don't like the idea of leaving it disconnected and neither do I feel the need fora low coolant warning light. Due to some mishaps in both Stags last year I have become paranoid about checking all the levels every five minutes!
I have become paranoid about checking all the levels every five minutes!
Robert
Not easy to do while you're driving along so the low coolant light gets my vote if you want to do something useful with the warning light . The PDWA was only fitted for export reasons to the safety obsessed American market. With dual circuit brakes you're unlikely to get total brake failure and you'd notice the reduction or uneven braking effect if one circuit failed. In reality you're unlikely to have much time to observe the red warning light as your life flashes in front of you.
OK, I'm beginning to get the message. I presume this is fitted somewhere down the radiator filler spout, so what do I need to buy to make up the switch or can one buy such a switch from Halfords/MotorWorld?
I'm in the process of fitting a modified header tank off a different car which already has a float switch fitted .it's not just a case of getting one of the shelf but I'm sure one could be fitted to the existing expansion bottle some how,the trouble with that is it still doesn't tell you the level of coolant in the system only the bottle..
For the rad level - the SD1 Rover had probes that were pushed into grommets in the rad side tank, and current was passed through them to keep the light out - it was linked to similar probes in the expansion tank and controlled by a cylindrical shaped control unit behind the dash top - if any of the probes became exposed (or to be more precise notimmersed in the coolant)to air the warning light would come on - this system worked very well and could be adapted to the Stag I think with minimum effort, and would give great peace of mind.
The control unit for this is £20 and still available new - the probes however hard to find and are either a scrappy job or make your own and use the SD1 grommets which are a fiver each
OK, I'm beginning to get the message. I presume this is fitted somewhere down the radiator filler spout, so what do I need to buy to make up the switch or can one buy such a switch from Halfords/MotorWorld?
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