Hi everyone, slowly ticking off jobs on the stag. Had a go at the timing chains today for the first time with new chains, guides and tensioners, I had Hans (rimmers) and ROM helping me along the way. Posted some photos to see what you think. Everything seemed to go to plan but your views would be appreciated. Cheers Steve IMG_0569.jpg IMG_0567.jpg
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Timing chain virgin.
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take the tensioner off. be careful as they will now spring open and the spring inside will fly across the floor. you will need to reset the tensioner. the book should say to put a thin piece of card between tensioner body and foot. to reset the tensioner, take off, separate and rotate the back part back in until it clicks into the back of the foot. the gap ideally should only be a few millimeters
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hats off to you for getting stuck into this stuff
My only gotcha on chains is that the short RH / driver side chain can easily go in one link off.
use a straight edge, even a standard steel rule will do the job. drop the edge into the slots on cam cap #1 and alight the rest of the edge along the middle of the other caps. You can easily see if the cam is aligned.
What I generally have to do is use a suitable spanner on the back end of the RH cam and counter rotate it a few degrees to allow the chain to line up. then when the spanner tension is released it is perfick.
Others above have mentioned about tensioners, but wind the tensioner right in so that the spring is locked into the base. then a nice big old penny washer probably 2mm thick but cut into a horseshoe can sit between the tensioner body and the back of the tensioner shoe. this means that you can set the chain guides right but without the tensioner interfering. When happy, remove the washer and push the tensioner shoe into it's housing, this should engage the tensioner mechanism so that it is now tensioning under the spring and ratchet mechanism. if not sure there is no harm in unbolting the tensioner to see if the shoe is free from the end cap. then reset it, and bolt it back up again and then push the thing back into the housing assured that the tensioner will be set up correctly
Stags and Range Rover Classics - I must be a loony
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It’s worth checking, at this stage, that the l.h. Head long straight guide is not giving hard (uneven ) chain contact at the top…. Quite a few were poorly made and only contacted at the top.
Fettling required to adjust this…. Slots and material removalLast edited by jbuckl; 11 February 2025, 19:57.
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Originally posted by richardthestag View PostI understand what you mean Julian and no disrespect to other forum members but maybe a little more detail would help folk understand.. btw, never seen this issue
its this corner iirc
it’s always possible the issue has been resolved…. But definitely worth checking.
IMG_4517.jpgLast edited by jbuckl; 11 February 2025, 20:09.
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Yes, my old guides rubber was worn away completely in that area. Didn't take a photo though.
2012 - 12 - 007 mod.jpgThe answer isn't 42, it's 1/137
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Originally posted by dasadrew View PostYes, my old guides rubber was worn away completely in that area. Didn't take a photo though.
2012 - 12 - 007 mod.jpg
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