Lumenition switch

[stonedrive]

Hi everyone again, on my lumenition optical switch one of the crimps has parted company with the cable, I have tried to reattach it but crimp is not having it can you buy this type of crimp anywhere because a new switch is £100. Apart from crimp there’s nothing wrong with lumenition. Many thanks Steve. IMG_0217.jpg IMG_0216.jpg

[Goldstar]

You can replace the whole connector with something like this Steve, it will fail at some point anyhow

https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/superseal-waterproof-connector-pair-3-way-1-5-series.html

[mole42]

Phone Autocar - they can supply new replacements. https://autocar-electrical.co.uk/lumenition

The Molex connectors on Lumenition are pretty reliable - they usually last for about 25 years before going awry. I've just replaced mine with new ones.

[stonedrive]

Many thanks to you both, new three way connector ordered. Cheers Steve

[jbuckl]

The proper crimp tool for this is about £30 online.

However, a soldered connection should also work too.

Supaseal connections are available with pre crimped 3 ways and fly leads too.

[stonedrive]

Hi Julian, I’m going for soldered connection. Many thanks Steve

[mole42]

I'm not keen to recommend a soldered connection - it is likely that the solder creeps up the wire and forms a 'break point' where the solid solder and the flexible cable meet. The proper crimp tool might seem expensive but it does a proper job! THere's one on ebay that should work for £14.34

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/376065119501?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338590836&toolid=10044&customid=895ab804579612863ecadff9a4216b74

[jbuckl]

Solder and heat shrink is way better than some I’ve seen (twisted together skinny speaker cable with scotch locks or sellotape) for example)

[Goldstar]

Hi Julian, I’m going for soldered connection. Many thanks Steve

From memory it’s not copper wire, it’s high resistance wire (at least on one side of the connector) so soldering isn’t straight forward. Silver solder Will probably work.

[stonedrive]

Hi everyone again, I have replaced three way connector going into distributor on the lamination but I still haven’t got ignition light coming up on dashboard cluster. When I try to start stag there is nothing still at ignition all other lights come on in cluster except ignition. Is there any way to test lumenition to see if it’s working. Is there anything else I can check. Fuses ok, battery fully charged, running out of ideas I’m not really great when it comes to electrics. Many thanks Steve.

[mole42]

This from a Caterham forum:

There is four possible faults , from what you've got some sound more likely than others but lets be logical about it. The 4 poss faults are;

1 optical switch

2 Ignition module

3 coil

4 Wiring fault

Firstly test the ignition module by (with the power on) shorting the blue and black wires to the ignition module at the in line plug before the dizzy. This should again give you a spark at the HT lead ( you are replacing the switch)

If still no spark it is probably the ignition module . If it is weak it could be coil , bad earth .

If you do get a spark suspect the switch . TO test this as you put your piece of paper thro the optical switch the voltage on the blue to black leads should change from about 7v to 1v.

To test the coil you need to measure the resistance across the primary and secondary windings. Across the primary it will probably be about 3 to 3.5 ohms ( it can vary dependant on what exact system your using .

Secondaries are harder to measure as it many thousands of ohms. Or the other slightly more dangereous way is to put direct 12v supply on and off primary winding and you should get a sperk at the HT lead.

[StagJonno]

"Across the primary it will probably be about 3 to 3.5 ohms ( it can vary dependant on what exact system your using ."

As the Stag uses a ballasted coil (unless this has been changed) the coil primary (low voltage) side will have a resistance of approx 1.5 ohms, with the ballast resistor having a similar value.

Having said that, the Ignition warning light has nothing to do with the electronic ignition. It should more correctly be described as the "Battery Not Charging" light. It lights up when the ignition key is turned to the second position and remains on until the alternator starts charging the battery. If it's not coming on at all, then the first thing to check is what the battery voltage indicator is showing with the engine revs between 1500 - 2000 RPM. If it's showing above 13V and rises slowly, the charging system is probably OK. If the V indicator is only showing around 12V, try revving up to 3000 RPM which my spur the alternator to start charging. The next thing to check is if the indicator bulb in the cluster has blown - ensure this bulb is an incandescent type (with a filament) as LED types (or blown incandescent) can prevent the alternator receiving initial excitement.

.

[stonedrive]

Hi, thank you both for your replies, back working on stag tomorrow and that’s now given me something to work through. Much appreciated Steve.

[stonedrive]

Hi everyone, now convinced it’s an electrical problem. With the ignition off the ignition light is on and goes off on third click of key. Three clicks and fuel light and brake light comes on.Not sure if it’s connected but there is a clicking noise when I turn key sounds like it’s coming from passenger side. I find it a bit confusing when electrics are involved. Any help would be much appreciated. Steve

[Goldstar]

With the ignition off an ignition light on usually means that the alternator diode pack is kaput.