No ignition light

[petrolhead2]

Hi folks. I'd welcome your thoughts. After several attempts to start the car the ignition/choke/oil lights don't come on and the car seems electrically dead. I pulled the 2 ignition related fuses to check the were ok (they were) and went back into the car and all seemed well again and the car started. This has happened several times and only happens after multiple attempt to start the car (now resolved by getting rid of chinesium distributor cap and rotor). Could this simply be poor contact with the fuse (they dont look corroded but not shiny either. Or is it more likely to be the ignition switch itself? I'm keen to prevent the whole electrics dying on me when out and about
Ian

[jbuckl]

1. Does ignition light come on when fuse 1and 2 are bridged?

2. Once fuse bad connection is eliminated…. If 1 gives a result, suspect ign switch contacts. (They can be cleaned or switch replaced)

3. if cleaning the switch contacts…. It’s really easy to loose springs / balls….. be aware…. Do it in a tidy area so finding them is easier! The aluminium housing will stand about 1.5 goes at re clinching

4. photograph switch body to aluminium housing orientation before diving in.

[mole42]

An often overlooked cause of this issue is that the rivets holding the fuse contacts to the blade terminals the other side of the fuse block become loose and there is then an intermittent contact between the two. The solution is easy to do but requires removing the fuseblock from the car and then using a drift and a small hammer to tighten the rivets. Do not be tempted to replace the fuseblock with a modern equivalent, in common with many new parts there have been issues with the manufacturing quality of the new blade-type fuseblocks.

[StagJonno]

The warning lights you mention are fed from the white wire (ignition) circuit which isn't fused, so can't be a fuse. However, this circuit comes from the "hot" side of the Ignition Control Fuse, so worth having a look at the connections to the fusebox (especially the white and the yellow wires) behind the parcel shelf. If these look OK, then it's pointing towards the Ignition Switch being the cause.

Recommend you disconnect the battery when you're investigating - as said, this circuit isn't fused!

[petrolhead2]

Thanks for that. I'll try bridging the 2 fuses tomorrow when my glamorous assistant is available and report back. Hopefully it will just be the switch and not the rivets. I've had all the fuses out and all seem quite tight

[petrolhead2]

Having some issues posting so I'll try again. Thanks for your advice. Bridging the 2 fuses brings on the oil and ign lights suggesting ignition switch is the problem. I've looked at the back of the fusebox and all looks ok though It's hard to get a really good view and I just hope that the rivet issue does not apply. The Haynes manual says to remove the steering column to replace the ignition switch ??? Surely this can't be so I would be grateful for any advice regarding swopping out the ignition switch (the car is a late Mk 2 btw) Thanks in advance Ian

[mole42]

Having some issues posting so I'll try again. Thanks for your advice. Bridging the 2 fuses brings on the oil and ign lights suggesting ignition switch is the problem. I've looked at the back of the fusebox and all looks ok though It's hard to get a really good view and I just hope that the rivet issue does not apply. The Haynes manual says to remove the steering column to replace the ignition switch ??? Surely this can't be so I would be grateful for any advice regarding swopping out the ignition switch (the car is a late Mk 2 btw) Thanks in advance Ian

Loose fusebox rivets are not a visual check. If you try wobbling the spade connectors from inside the car you might find that lights and things flicker - that's a clue.

It's possible to remove just the switch from the steering lock, once you have removed the plasic covers, by removing two small Pozidriv screws and pulling the switch off. Don't forget to disconnect the battery first! If you need to change the switch, the wire loom runs down the column in a metal housing which has four small screws and is a right b*gg*r to fit. I find that taking the drivers seat out (only four screws) helps because then I can lie on the floor with my head under the dash by the pedals.

[petrolhead2]

Ok mole2 I'll give them a wiggle and thanks too for the switch replacement advice. Ian

[petrolhead2]

Update. Ok the car electrics still play dead after several attempts to start the engine. When the electrics are live everything seems ok apart from not starting. I've replaced the ignition switch and disconnected a Cobra immobilizer which wasn't affecting previous starting and all the circuits seem to work as they should ie wipers/lights etc then after cranking the engine several times the electrics become totally dead in all systems. I've checked the battery/engine/chassis earths and the engine did run briefly at the first attempt with the engine turning over briskly on cranking and weirdly the neg battery terminal seems warm compared to the positive one (but not really hot}. There is fuel and spark. Unfortunately previous owners have added a lot of odd coloured wires that seem to have no purpose. The big brown wires sited on hte inner o/side wing below the washer bottle all seem good but when my friend moves the wiring loom above where your clutch foot would be a relay clicks near the heater tho I cannot identify it. I should mention that the car has a Kenlowe fan with its own relay and headlights which all 4 have dip and main beam running through relays but they all seem to work fine, Help I'm running out of hair to pull out.
Ian

[Lingen]

Ian.
I would start with that warm neg. battery terminal. Something is clearly wrong there. Clean everything up and check that the cable end is firmly attached to the clamp.
Mike.