Zero cone setting distance

[Edders20]

Does anyone know the zero cone setting distance for the stag diff - ie the distance between the top face of the pinion gear to the center line of the crown wheel? This is the setting that the special tool M84B provides but i cant find a value for it anywhere except one for TR6 diff (2.154") but it may not be the same for the stag.

[jbuckl]

I think this is set with a tool. Not to a value.

Anyway, here’s a useful diff rebuild thread:-

https://socforum.com/forum/forum/stag-owners-club/soc-forum/8335-diy-differential-rebuild

[Edders20]

Yes it is set with a tool but that is just an easy way for triumph technicians to measure it - the attached DTI on tool M84B gives you a direct reading of the amount of shims required to achieve the zero cone setting distance but if you dont have that tool you need to measure it, and for that you need to know what that distance should be. The alternative, and the one used in all the rebuild guides, is to just set it to what the old one was and adjust it with a contact pattern test but it would be nice to set it correctly in the first place - a lot of the replacement bearings and crown wheel/pinion sets have differing sizes from the OEM ones.

[jbuckl]

Yes it is set with a tool but that is just an easy way for triumph technicians to measure it - the attached DTI on tool M84B gives you a direct reading of the amount of shims required to achieve the zero cone setting distance but if you dont have that tool you need to measure it, and for that you need to know what that distance should be. The alternative, and the one used in all the rebuild guides, is to just set it to what the old one was and adjust it with a contact pattern test but it would be nice to set it correctly in the first place - a lot of the replacement bearings and crown wheel/pinion sets have differing sizes from the OEM ones.

Yep understood, I don’t have the value you need sorry.

https://socforum.com/forum/filedata/fetch?id=576962

[flying farmer]

I have found the best solution here is to use a genuine Timken pinion head bearing as I have found they are all within a thou or two of the original bearing thickness and I have done about half a dozen as a straight replacement with no need for resetting.
As you say, other makes of bearing can be significantly different.

[marshman]

Agree with Neil (Flying Farmer) get Timken Bearings, same as originals. Expensive but they fit with no or very little "adjustment", not only in Stag diffs but in other applications as well. Shop around different suppliers as prices to vary quite a lot, use the no.s on the bearings you removed as a reference (assuming they are the original TImken ones. Obviously if you have a new crown wheel and pinion set then you may have to assemble, measure up, dismantle to get the right shims and reassemble, bit of a ball ache but doable and doesn't take long.

[Edders20]

Would have gone for Timken but difficult to justify nearly 300 quid a set when the new CW&P set from Lincoln is so different from original (thinner gears at different angle) and I am effectively starting from scratch.

[marshman]

If they are that different I suspect knowing the original factory spec zero cone difference would be much use. Best just set it up from scratch .

[Edders20]

I asked Rimmers what the spec was for the new CW&P and Chris says it should set up exactly as an original one - I have also asked the factory that make them for Rimmers, Becker Racing, for the mounting distance but no reply yet, looks like it will have to be the hard way.