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    How long to replace foot pans in hours

    Gent's still feel I'm getting mucked about by panel beater, and am sure he is trying to add an excessive amount of time onto the floor pan removal and replace.

    So honestly how long in hours to remove and weld back in both front and rear foot wells and out riggers + from start to finish including spray painting interior floor

    #2
    imported post

    I have been reading your posts and although I am not a panel beater I could not see why this could take more than a couple of days to complete. If I had to do my own and had all the parts on site and not being a pro shop it would take me about a week. Its a car and its a floor panel.

    Stick with it or find another shop

    Cheers Stuart

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      #3
      imported post

      Probably a couple of days maybe three, but by the time you throw in the tea breaks and breakfast runs + the "parts did not arrive on time" + " it was a lot worse than we first thought"..........then about two weeks

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        #4
        imported post

        Yes Stuart I understand that it would take more than a few days but the car has languished in this panel beaters for 6 1/2 weeks now, and they have just told me that the car will not be ready for another week and a half. I get the distinct feeling that someone is taking the piss now, if you know what I mean.

        I would have expected this job to have taken about 40 to 50 hours, but am only guessing as I'm not body work proficient

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          #5
          imported post

          Moraystag wrote:
          Yes Stuart I understand that it would take more than a few days but the car has languished in this panel beaters for 6 1/2 weeks now, and they have just told me that the car will not be ready for another week and a half. I get the distinct feeling that someone is taking the piss now, if you know what I mean.

          I would have expected this job to have taken about 40 to 50 hours, but am only guessing as I'm not body work proficient
          Not sure if this will help or make you feel any better, but I was involved in a bump with my Nissan Patrol 3 months ago. Not much damage to my car - front bumper just bent out of place by about 3" and a side moulding broke off. Took the garage 4 1/2 weeks to sort this. Luckily, I had a free hire car during this time or I would have been demanding to see what was going on.

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            #6
            imported post

            Sounds like they have a different clock your issue has to be how much and when your not paying for their F**k ups or their tea brakes etc If they finish the job in a week or two the price is the same. I have a great respect for craftsmen been one myself for a long long time but honestly some people need to get off their ass and move with it. I know you said you do not know much about this panel work but they are not doing anything fancy no old school lead filling or body beating and the stuff they are doing is 2nd or 3rd year apprentice S**t. Look at the end of the day you are the man, its your car, finish it and drive it like you own the road thats what I plan to do. I spent a bit less on mine than you did I could have bought a vette, mustang, camarro or any other big power car hell I am up to my neck in hemi this or big block that etc but I bought a Stag because I wanted one and I know that its me, generaly going against the grain making it work and thats the difference. If your body shop had to compete with the shops over here they would last about a 2 weeks like I said I am all for craftsmen and the trade thet represent but when they take the piss its time to go.By the way we are in the same industry.

            Cheers Stuart


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              #7
              imported post

              billing time should be different to time vehicle was away.

              It really depends on the condition to start with and expected standard/finish

              The 40/ 50 hours mentioned may only produce an m.o.t. standard repair on a rough car.
              There are 2 secrets to staying on top :- 1. Don't give everything away.
              2.

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                #8
                imported post

                Stag is mint unfortunately we did not realise that the floors were shot at the corners where they join onto the frontinner sill. There is about 6 to 10 " rotten inner sill but nothing more can be seen either in the inner or outer as theres loads of rust preventer been pumped in long ago, obviously not enoiugh though

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                  #9
                  imported post

                  Moraystag wrote:
                  Gent's still feel I'm getting mucked about by panel beater, and am sure he is trying to add an excessive amount of time onto the floor pan removal and replace.

                  So honestly how long in hours to remove and weld back in both front and rear foot wells and out riggers + from start to finish including spray painting interior floor
                  Just a thought, could you not out of interest ring E J Wards or another reputable company and ask them a time and price.............could put your mind at rest or help make a decision, they would know and give an honest answer, as long as you explain your situation, I'm sure they would be glad to advise.

                  Jeff.
                  I only do what the voices in my wife’s head tell me to do!

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                    #10
                    imported post

                    Moraystag wrote:
                    Yes Stuart I understand that it would take more than a few days but the car has languished in this panel beaters for 6 1/2 weeks now, and they have just told me that the car will not be ready for another week and a half. I get the distinct feeling that someone is taking the piss now, if you know what I mean.

                    I would have expected this job to have taken about 40 to 50 hours, but am only guessing as I'm not body work proficient
                    I would just like to say a word about how the small body shop works and I do know I used to run one

                    The average small body shop has about two men and maybe a lad working in it. The customer comes along and gets a estimate in your case about 40hours that's one man doing nothing else for a week .The body shop probably does trade work as well so when the trade work arrives your car is left ,When you left the car you should have been given a rough time thatthecarwould be with them usually add at least a week to this but as already stated the time in the shop is not the time you are paying for .

                    |The longer the car is there the more outside work they will take on and the longer the job will take this is not greed it is the only way the small independent body shops can survive .Remember they don't get paid till its finished so why would they go slow they want it out as much as you do but they cant afford to turn away the other work .

                    JOHN
                    MK 2 1977 FLAMENCO RED ,WEBER ,BELT DRIVEN WATER PUMP.

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                      #11
                      imported post

                      Moraystag wrote:
                      Stag is mint unfortunately we did not realise that the floors were shot at the corners where they join onto the frontinner sill. There is about 6 to 10 " rotten inner sill but nothing more can be seen either in the inner or outer as theres loads of rust preventer been pumped in long ago, obviously not enoiugh though
                      If that is the only rust area why are they replacing complete floors?

                      There is nothing wrong IMO in plating to repair an isolated area of rust. Admittedly the front corners usually involve floor, sill and outrigger, and possibly part of the wing and this is a complicated section, but if done properly, it should last years, and should not take more than a week's work for both sides, plus any painting if required.

                      I think it is best to choose a one-man or very smallbusiness, as the bigger shops have such large overheads. Surely there must be some small welders in Scotland who could do it for a sensible price? If not, it would be much cheaper to get the car transported somewhere where it can be done.


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                        #12
                        imported post

                        Jamcarr2 I have already made a comitment to these people I have given them 500 quid down as a deposit. I have also given and delivered all 4 x flloor pans and all four out riggers. They have botched up one rear floor ( passenger side)pan and I have replaced it and had it delivered last weel from J.P. they also wrecked an out rigger, same side rear out rigger. So in total I have spent out 632 quid in panels this included sound deadening pads and seat mounting panels which they said they would need although there was nothing wrong with the old one's??The rear foot wells were in good nick and no rust but they said that to keep all the profiles the same they would need to change both front and rear footwells as the new profiles did not match the old ones. Now I'm not much cop as far as body wok is concerned so have gone with the flow here relying on expert information:X

                        So far spent out by myself over the last 6 1/2 weeks £1132.78. Now I can fully understand that these guys are a small buisness and they need money coming in, but to be honest you may be able to see it from my point of view. Not only am I forking out cash, but really do feel that something is not right here:XI will however be travelling yet another 100 mile round trip tomorrowto see how far they have progressed this mammoth job, and if I am not happy the car will be removed as I have made contact with a guy from Glasgow who apparently doe's a lot of the West of Scotland guys Stags for them. It's a 500 mile round trip for me but I do not have to many options. Although I do like to give my trade to local people normally. The guys name is Gordon McN any feed back from the Glasgow / West Scotlandboys would be much appreciated

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                          #13
                          imported post

                          Moraystag wrote:
                          Jamcarr2 I have already made a comitment to these people I have given them 500 quid down as a deposit. I have also given and delivered all 4 x flloor pans and all four out riggers. They have botched up one rear floor ( passenger side)pan and I have replaced it and had it delivered last weel from J.P. they also wrecked an out rigger, same side rear out rigger. So in total I have spent out 632 quid in panels this included sound deadening pads and seat mounting panels which they said they would need although there was nothing wrong with the old one's??The rear foot wells were in good nick and no rust but they said that to keep all the profiles the same they would need to change both front and rear footwells as the new profiles did not match the old ones. Now I'm not much cop as far as body wok is concerned so have gone with the flow here relying on expert information:X
                          I know this doesn't help you now but it may help someone else who's looking to do floor pans in the future. The SOCFTL floors are exactly the same profile as the original floors so you would only need to change the front if the front is all that requires changing. The profile is an exact match.

                          I suppose it is quicker for them to fit a new seat mounting rather than drill out the spot welds and re-use the old. Mind you it's only 10 mins work to get the old one off.

                          I really don't undstand why you are paying to replace a panel they botched up. That should be their responsibility.


                          1976 Triumph V8 Manual/OD in BRG

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                            #14
                            imported post

                            Nick when I spoke to the guy at JP he told me that the panels were the only one's that were now available. I did say to him that there should be SOC panels available but he said that the panels that he had sent were the only one's available??

                            Yeh and your right wht I have had to fork out for their muck ups is beyond me. This must be the craziest situation I've ever come across for sure.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              imported post

                              The rear foot wells were in good nick and no rust but they said that to keep all the profiles the same they would need to change both front and rear footwells as the new profiles did not match the old ones.
                              Sounds like a load of bo**ocks to me.Surely the area is flatwhere you would join the front and rear footwell panels? What profile is there to maintain?


                              They have botched up one rear floor ( passenger side)pan and I have replaced it and had it delivered last weel from J.P. they also wrecked an out rigger, same side rear out rigger.
                              I taught myself to weld as I went along whenI rebuilt my car and the floorpans were one of the first jobs that I did. Iwould say it was one of theeasieststructural repairs I did on my car (and there was a lot of them).Their level of incompetency must be off the scale to be able to screw up a floorpan and outrigger.



                              I would get the car out of there as soon as you can.



                              Pete




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