Front brakes

[jleyton]

imported post

They're supposed to swell less under pressure so all your stomping power goes onto the back of the pistons and not wasted expanding hoses.

I've not tried them myself but I can see the logic.

Cheers

Julian

[charliebridger]

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they dont expand as much so giving better feel and allowing more pressure to be directed to pistons rather than flexing youre hoses

[Jeff]

imported post

ok, thanks.

[martin]

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Moraystag wrote:

Have just seen these for sale on flea bay. Seem to be pretty cheep . Wonder if they would be ok

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/GOODRIDGE-BRAK...item56425361b9

Mike

Hi Mike, very good kit and a good price, if mine weren't done I'd have them.
Martin.

[charliebridger]

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make sure you get goodridge not cheap knockoffs goodridge hoses are eu stamped so will pass mot there not passing cars with brake mods like hoses for safety reasons
keep packaging i think eu stamps on box or is it tuv approval one or tuther

[DJT]

imported post

I agree with the above. The original Stag calipers, in good condition, are quite adequate for stopping the Stag under normal driving. Goodridge hoses are not much more expensive than rubber ones, and a good upgrade. Especially if the rubber ones fitted are of indeterminate age. They have been know to break down internally and obstruct the flow of fluid, yet still look good externally. EBC Greenstuff have been quoted as better than ordinary ones, but I have yet to be convinced. Didn't notice much difference myself when I fitted them last year.

Also check the condition of the discs. There have been some frightening pictures on here of discs that have been on infrequently used Stags. Horribly corroded, particularly on the inner, hidded, surface. :shock:

Some 4-pot conversions are actually a downgrade as they offer a smaller overall braking area on the disc. This may only apply to the early BL Princess based conversion, but something to look out for.

On the subject of Goodridge hoses: http://www.thisisexeter.co.uk/news/G...l/article.html

I met this guy some years ago when I went to the factory (about 3 miles away)to enquire about hoses for the Stag. He was very helpful and said that they had the templates (this was before they were offered commercially) and would be happy to make me a set, but it would have to be the next day as they had an important factory visit that day. I collected the hoses the following day, but when I went to fit them they had made both rear hoses the same. I returned, pointed out the error and they corrected the problem whilst I waited. Not bad for a company used to dealing in multi-million pound contracts with major manufacturers and many of the big racing teams, including F1. They also made me a clutch hose at a later date.

Dave

[Guest]

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The other advantage of braided hoses is that, unlike older rubber ones, they wont absorb moisture.

Water in brake fluid boils far more easily than brake fluid which means that you loose pedal pressure and the pistons aren't going to be operating as they should.

[stagmuffin]

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piscean57 wrote:

The other advantage of braided hoses is that, unlike older rubber ones, they wont absorb moisture.

Water in brake fluid boils far more easily than brake fluid which means that you loose pedal pressure and the pistons aren't going to be operating as they should.

i would of said the only advantages of the braided type of hose is the resistance to expansion under hydraulic loads and the protection afforded to the hose exterior via the braid.these factors alone especialy the former make it a must have option.i have never witnessed rubber absorbing moisture and did not know this was possible.the water in fluid will also cause corrosion which kills hydraulic systems fast with the ferrous components breaking down and exfoliation occurring.

steve.........
well bugger me ,just researched this and it is known that the rubber components in the system notably hoses will absorb the moisture and pass it through into the brake fluid thats why it is recomended to be changed at regular intervals.

[elvimto]

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Just my 2 cents I flushed out the system rebuilt the rear cylinders new rear shoes turned the drums added Goodrich hoses front and rear and went with silicone brake fluid all on the standard system braking I feel the brakes are very good and have stopped quick a few times. One thing I did notice if the rear brakes are not adjusted right you will get excesive travel and have to pump the pedal so it is worth the extra time to set up the rear brake adjusters. again just my 2 cents now its back to tiling and grout.
cheers stuart

[Moraystag]

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martin wrote:

Moraystag wrote:

Have just seen these for sale on flea bay. Seem to be pretty cheep . Wonder if they would be ok

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/GOODRIDGE-BRAK...item56425361b9

Mike

Hi Mike, very good kit and a good price, if mine weren't done I'd have them.
Martin.

Hi Martin just bought a set for 28 quid, to good an offer to ignore, I have the rubber ones at the moment. Only thing is I'll have to blead the system again and for what ever reason it's my pet hate:P.

I did notice last time I had the wheels off that the threaded connections on mine look pretty corroded, and suggestions for freeing them of incase I bust something once I get home and started???:?

[marshman]

imported post

moraystag,

Get a small stiff wire brush and go around all of the hoses and vigorously brush off all of the rust. soak with plus gas. Repeat this a couple of times. if they look really bad then apply a blow lamp to them to heat the up before you attempt to undo them. Only do this if you are replacing the hose as the heat will damage the rubber and only do where the hose joins the pipe - not where it enters the calliper.

You should then be able to free them all off. Make sure you clean up the brake pipe behind the nut so it is free to rotate otherwise you may end up twisting the pipe.

Be prepared to mess up the brake pipes though - sods law says it will happen to at least one - usually the last one - if that happens if you have a flaring kit and new nut you can remake the end but really if they were that bad and rusty then fit new brake pipes. Its not hard just time consuming.

Good luck

Roger

p.s. whilst everyone is singing the praises of braided hoses I would add that the braiding makes it difficult to see the condition of the rubber underneath whereas with normal hoses you can easily see when the rubber has started to deteriorate.

[DJT]

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marshman wrote:

p.s. whilst everyone is singing the praises of braided hoses I would add that the braiding makes it difficult to see the condition of the rubber underneath whereas with normal hoses you can easily see when the rubber has started to deteriorate.

The Goodridge hoses aren't rubber lined. They have a synthetic lining (Teflon?) making them a fit-and-forget item for normal use.

Dave

[marshman]

imported post

DJT wrote:

marshman wrote:

p.s. whilst everyone is singing the praises of braided hoses I would add that the braiding makes it difficult to see the condition of the rubber underneath whereas with normal hoses you can easily see when the rubber has started to deteriorate.

The Goodridge hoses aren't rubber lined. They have a synthetic lining (Teflon?) making them a fit-and-forget item for normal use.

Dave

Istand corrected Dave, thanks for the info.

Roger

[peter f]

imported post

marshman wrote:

moraystag,

Get a small stiff wire brush and go around all of the hoses and vigorously brush off all of the rust. soak with plus gas. Repeat this a couple of times. if they look really bad then apply a blow lamp to them to heat the up before you attempt to undo them. Only do this if you are replacing the hose as the heat will damage the rubber and only do where the hose joins the pipe - not where it enters the calliper.

You should then be able to free them all off. Make sure you clean up the brake pipe behind the nut so it is free to rotate otherwise you may end up twisting the pipe.

Be prepared to mess up the brake pipes though - sods law says it will happen to at least one - usually the last one - if that happens if you have a flaring kit and new nut you can remake the end but really if they were that bad and rusty then fit new brake pipes. Its not hard just time consuming.

Good luck

Roger

p.s. whilst everyone is singing the praises of braided hoses I would add that the braiding makes it difficult to see the condition of the rubber underneath whereas with normal hoses you can easily see when the rubber has started to deteriorate.

Spot on Roger - when I tried to do mine, the first two corners I tried ended up with the copper pipes twisting, as there was no way the unions would undo (tried everything I had).
The answer was to put the wheels back on, take it to our SOC area member with his own garage, cut the buggers of and flair and fit new ones.
He had a neat bleeding kit which sucked the fluid through, and with it the air in the system.
Job done!!
good luck,
Peter f

[Staggard]

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I've just fitted recon calipers with EBC discs greenstuff pads new rear wheel cylinders and braided s/s hoses a vast inprovement. I have alsopurchased a second handBMW 328i brake servo and master cylinder and fitted this with a few mod's, this is supposed to reduce pedal pressure by 30% I have not been able to put this to the test yet asI have had to remove it and refit the original,as the car is in Tenerife and has to under go an ITV (MOT)to register here and to all intent and purpose must remain as per manufacture. Graham