Overheating and voltage stabiliser problems

[silverfox]

As all of you who've read my past posts know I've suffered from water loss since owning the stag. I've change all the hoses, the thermostat, the inlet manifold gaskets to no avail. On a recent run I broke down on the motorway when the fuel pump packed in. At the time the temp indicator was showing hotter than normal but I put this down to the hot weather. I've chaned the pump for an electronic one and at the same time decided to put some K-seal into the rad to try to stop the leak. Did that this morning and started the car up and left it running while I had a quick shower (less than 10 minutes ). When I came back to the car the temp was showing just short of going into the red. I let the car cool down and took it for a short run. In less than a mile it was back nearly into the red. Felt at the hoses, Top hose hot, bottom hose only warm. Could this indicate a blocked radiator. If so is it an easy and quick job to change the rad. Which rad is best ( at a reasonable price ). Is it better to get my rad re-cored. (It does look a bit scabby.
I'm now waiting for the car to cool down to check the water level.
While it was cooling down I wondered if I was getting a false reading from the temp gauge due to the voltage stabiliser. I'd ordered an electronic one but not fitted it. The old stabiliser has 2 double terminals. On the B side (battery), is a double dark green wire and a single dark green wire. With the ignition on and the stabiliser removed, the double dark green wire is at 12volts and the single dark green wire at 0 volts. On the I side of the stabiliser,(instruments), is a double light green wire, again with the old stabiliser removed the voltage here is also 12volts. With the old or new stabilisers fitted, the voltage at both sides is still 12volts. It should be 10volts on the I side. Also with no stabiliser fitted, the temp gauge and the fuel gauge read the same as when the stabiliser is in circuit. I'm now total confused. ( I'm even more confused now I've typed this out ) Can anybody help please, the summer is slipping away. Terry

[alan230752]

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dont trust the gauge or the sender
apply an independent 5.5 volts /.09 amp to the temp gauge it should read midway
reads any higher it is faulty

[silverfox]

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Thanks Alan I,ll try that. Terry

[silverfox]

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Is the temperature transmitter on the left hand cylinder head at the back and is it easy to change in situ. Terry

[silverfox]

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Mmmm, beginning to feel like Billy no mates, sorry Alan, Billy one mate

[singapore stag]

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silverfox wrote:

Is the temperature transmitter on the left hand cylinder head at the back and is it easy to change in situ. Terry

Hi Terry two mates,
If sitting in the drivers seat then yes it is in the left hand cylinder, easy to take off/put on only slightly fiddly because of the lack of space. I will be fitting a capillary one soon much better and accurate.

Sukh

[silverfox]

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Thanks Sukh, I was beginning to think I'd got lost in cyber space. What's entailed in fitting a capillary one. Terry

[stustag]

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Hi Terry

Take the rad out is easy take the pipe of bottom and top then undo the cowl at the bottom and undo the 4 bolts (2 top and bottom) and remove.

Take it to a rad specialist (see yell.com) and ask for it to be cleaned out and pressure tested show cost about £30 and be good as new.

As for your water leak the most common leak is the pipe that goes onto the water pump is not fully on and tightened happened to me loads of times and looks like the water pump is leaking as it runs into the V.

Make sure you drain the block and change thermostat then refill with 30-33% anti freeze and distilled water with the NSF wheel raised when refilling.

Stuart

[silverfox]

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Thanks Stuart, that's really useful information. I'll start removing the rad tomorrow, Terry

[singapore stag]

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silverfox wrote:

Thanks Sukh, I was beginning to think I'd got lost in cyber space. What's entailed in fitting a capillary one. Terry

Easy, But remember when you take the old one off the coolant will flow out, I will be doing mine now because I have flushed the system out ready for the Essex w/pump.

Most of the capillary gauges you get have a long sensor so a "sleeve" needs to be fitted into which the sensor goes. This all then plugs straight into where the original transmitter was. The gauge will obviously fit into the one you remove, route the wiring/ lead from behind the speedo/rev then behind and heater , feed it out behind the parcel shelf and into the engine bay.

I think Mg hive does the "sleeve", Martin advised me on this a while back.

[silverfox]

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Thanks for that singapore stag. It may be something I'll consider in the future

[mad cyclist]

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something else to worry about and or go wrong, if you change your oil reguarly and listen to your engine you dont need pressure guage.....imho.

rgds nick

[DJT]

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stustag wrote:

Take the rad out is easy take the pipe of bottom and top then undo the cowl at the bottom and undo the 4 bolts (2 top and bottom) and remove.

Terry,

Top tip when removing the radiator: Use a length of hose down the filler plug hole to syphon most of the water out before undoing th ebottom hose. That way you don't get showered in water/anti-freeze mix, and also you can dispose of the fluid sensibly, rather than letting it run all over the drive/road/garage floor and into the drainage system.

I have taken to doing this, refilling with fresh water, running the engine to circulate, syphon again. This dilutes the remaining fluid in the block, so that when you undo the drain plugs you get covered in a weaker mixture. Anti-freeze is not nice stuff to get showered in :X

Dave

[silverfox]

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Thanks Dave I'll do that. Terry

[silverfox]

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Just fitted a new radiator this morning. Just in time by the look of the old one, loads of crud came out of it and by the look of it it had evidence of leaking. Flushed the system and topped back up. Started the car and let it run on tick over. The temp gauge rose until nearly in the red, same as before. Felt at the new rad and that was only luke warm as was the top hose. I fitted a new thermostat a few weeks ago, an 88 degree one recommended by Peter at LD Parts. removed the thermostat housing and took out the thermostat to test it. (hardly any water came out of the top hose and none from the thermostat housing with the thermostat in place). Dropped the thermostat in boiling water and could not see any evidence of it opening, are many new thermostats faulty? Anyway, tried the car with no thermostat, again at tick over and temperature gradually rose to just over half way and remained there (It's quite a hot day today up here in the norf). I know people on this forum say do not run without a thermostat but can anyone tell me how much restriction a good thermostat puts on the cooling system circulation. Also what is the best temperature thermostat to use, thanks Terry