New Stag owner in need of help!!!

[jwallbutton]

Hi all...

I've just picked up my first Stag. 1973 L Reg registered February 24th 1973. I previously had a Spitfire (still do... not sold her just yet), but wanted more space due to an expanding family. We've had great fun taking the Spit on holiday (no... not kids... dog!) and having her in the footwell isnt ideal so wanted the the back seat.

She has been owned by the same chap for 30 years and has been in a garage for the last 10, but not been on the road for the last 10 either. Had an MOT a couple of days ago, and passed with just the handbrake cable needing to be tightened. Drives lovely! Bodywork is absolutely sound and everything else looks pretty mint.

I've got a couple of initial problems that I need to sort and I'm looking for your advice!

1) Doors wont lock..... I'm sure it's the right key, but wont go all the way round in the lock. Tried some WD40 and flicking the lock back and forth with a screwdriver, but no difference. Not good!

2) Boot lock.... same problem as above, but seems like either the wrong key, or a damaged lock. I've tried several sources, but I don't seem to be able to get a replacement. Any ideas?

3) Probably more important than 1 and 2.... what should I be going in terms of maintenance straight away? Flush the cooling system? Service? etc. etc.

4) Rear wheel bearing had an advisory and is knocking... can handle this as I've done it before with the Spit (and many other cars). However, I had a hairy experience giving it a run today. I was giving it a little right foot, and when going from 3rd to 4th, when I let off and went on the clutch, she lurched to the left from the rear. Not had that happen before. Any ideas?

Any help and advice would be fantastic!

Thanks

Jonathan

Kings Norton - Birmingham

[mad cyclist]

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Hi And welcome

the flushing is always a good idea if you dont know how old the anti freeze is.

doorlocks sounds like they are not engaging, have a peek behind the door cards, boot probably same.

and you have the 'twitch' its a design fault and happens to them all, there is 2 ways to cure, one is modified drive shafts the other is poly bush the rear trailing arms.

all or your soloutions can be found on here try the search box above for starters.

rgds Nick

[neil.henderson]

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Welcome to the forum,

I find this forum a lifesaver - I've got heaps of useful advice & ideas from it.



Yes, you have the Triumph twitch. I solved the twitch in mine by changing both the rear bushes + changing the rear halfshafts from Triumph to Datsun (yes Datsun:shock. The bushes took some work but with the right tools and heaps of lubricant they do shift ok. I was lucky that a member here of the Canberra Triumph club helped me to the halfshafts - he had done it before plus he had the tools!!

Best path is to find a local Triumph member who has done the tasks before & beg//borrow tools and advice from them

The work is well worth doing - it really does transform the car - roundabouts become a whole lot less scary

Regards Neil Henderson, Murrumbateman, Australia

[marshman]

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Hi Jonathan,

Welcome.

re:Stag Twitch.

Whilst I agree with Neil and Nick that changing to Datsun drive shafts will solve to problem I suspect that simply removing your existing driveshafts, cleaning and greasing the sliding splines and reassembling - all relatively straight forward with no special tools required - will improve them immensly. I run with standard shafts with splines regularly greased and don't have any twitch problems.

With the handbrake - I would caution against just tightening the handbrake cable. After standing for such a long time I would remove rear drums and check all the pivots on the rear shoes are clean and move freely and that the automatic adjusters work correctly. Then reassemble wiht the handbrake cable disconnected, tie back the levers in the fully off position. Press the brake pedal hard a few times, spin the drums and repeat, then refit cable.

Both the above jobs are in the same area and whilst you are there you can look at the suspect rear bearing.

re: Other jobs:

Thoughrough flush of cooling system, rad and block - remove both drain plugs on either side of engine and make sure clean water flows from holes. Check condition of all hoses and replace if suspect. Check heater valve movement - they are prone to seizing - whilst you have it drained down. Refil system with at least 30% good anti freeze.

Check head bolts - torque back off one flat then retorque to 60lbsft (there will be debate on the actual figure)

Change engine oil and filter - use good quality 20W/50. change gearbox oil - if an early Auto (BW35) make sure you use the right ATF - for BW boxes NOT anything marked DEXRON!!!!!!!

Check spark plug condition and regap, check points. Look at the coil - make sure it is not mounted too low in the bracket. Some people when they fit one puch it right down so it is lmost touching the block, this makes it get very hot with heat from the engine and it then fails prematurely, raise it up as high as the bracket will allow.

Check the condition of the wiring at the back of the engine to the coil, distributer, oil pressure switch etc. These suffer from heat damage and the insulation goes hard and brittle with age. Same applies to the wires connected to the solenoid on the starter.

Might be worth fitting new rubber diagphrams in the carbs - quick easy and cheap and after standing for 10 years probably won't last long.

Then check timing and carb balance/mixture - leave alone if it seems to run OK and the spark plugs looked good.

Check the oil level in the diff - also make sure the breather on top of the diff is clear - if not when it gets hot it pressurises and pushes the diff oil out through the seals giving the impression the seals have failed.

Check Powersteering fluid level - use ATF to top up.

Bleed brakes to change fluid - also clutch if you have a manual gearbox.

Check the tyres carefully - I would fit new ones after standing for 10 years it will almost certainly have flatspots.

If you do all of the above then you should avoid many of the common faults that seem to occur with Stags that have been laid up and then brought back to the road. If possible do the whole lot in one go - it is really just a proper service!

Bit of a long reply but should get you going in the right direction.

Would be helpful to lets us all know the details of the car - YEAR, manual/auto, and most important colour

Good luck

Roger

[milothedog]

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re:Stag Twitch.

"Whilst I agree with Neil and Nick that changing to Datsun drive shafts will solve to problem I suspect that simply removing your existing driveshafts, cleaning and greasing the sliding splines and reassembling - all relatively straight forward with no special tools required - will improve them immensly. I run with standard shafts with splines regularly greased and don't have any twitch problems".

Worked fine for me as well

If you don't want to take them off a decent spray can of Motorcycle chain lube can be used short term,just slide the gaiter back and spay in using the straw that comes with it.

M/C chain lube:
(it's a grease in a solvent that evaporates just leaving the grease to do it's job)
Ian.

[jwallbutton]

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Thanks for the advice guys! Really helpful.

As for the car, it's a 1973 L Reg (February), manual and in white. The only thing I've not been able to decide on is if it's a MK1 or MK2. It's got black badges, but doesnt have a hazard warning switch or seatbelt light. Just a large round brake light in the middle of the dash. Not sure really on how you tell!

Jon

[GDPR]

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Do your instruments have squared off needles, and where are your interior light/s? In the B posts or a single one in the t bar?

[jwallbutton]

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kryten wrote:

Do your instruments have squared off needles, and where are your interior light/s? In the B posts or a single one in the t bar?

I suspect the instruments have been replaced. As for the light, it's a single one in the t bar.

Jon

[GDPR]

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The light in the tbar says Mk2, but it could a parts bin car, the Mk1.5 or its been 'upgraded' (got at) with Mk2 bits...

Post a picture of your door catches - they are a good indicator.

Russ

[milothedog]

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Sounds a bit like mine, built autumn 73, outwardly a MK2 but has MK1 locks, no hazard lights etc,

[Ian F]

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Jonathan - sounds like a mk one and a half. Mine's March 73 Lreg, just misses the free tax and is similar to yours. Mk 2 seats, Mk1 dash with large brake light in top centre, Mk2 alloys etc.

Agree with allthats been said - grease the shafts to get rid of the twitch, it can be disconcerting otherwise. Flush the cooling system annually and as for the locks, you probably will need to get the door cards off and thoroughly check and lube all the linkages.

Get in touch and meet up with the local club (if you've not done it already) and between that and this Forum - you'll havea mine of information and lots, lots more things to worry about and develop the typical Stag paranoia.

Enjoy it.

Ian F

[Bernieweb]

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Hi,

Sounds like the barrels are worn. Pig of a job to replace as you need to remove the whole locking mechanism. Ask someone with thin hands and who has done it before!

Bernie