Temperature Sender unit

[Guest]

imported post

The Maplin ones are relatively dim. Each bulb has 4 LEDs, google ultimatemods, go to LED bulbs, scroll down to BA9S, that's one source, there are others. Cheers, Martin.

[jwallbutton]

imported post

OK... so it seems that a capillary temp/oil gauge is a good idea.... There seems to be some complexity fitting this though... Here's the comments from Rimmer Bros website:

Oil Pressure - Water Temperature Dual Gauge Kit

Combined gauge. Fit in place of standard temperature gauge (ideal if retaining electric time clock).

Note:-On triumph Stags, the water temp sensor fits in the RH head (the standard transmitter fits in the LH head). The RH head rear water jacket will require modification in order to install. We do supply a ready-modified water jacket (218436MOD). On other models (Triumph OHV 4 & 6 cyl, Rover V8 etc) 11K2846 adaptor and AED172 washer are required.

Kit Contents:-
1 Oil feed pipe Replacement oil pipe - Part No. RX1260
1 OIL PRESS.& WATER TEMP (COMBINED) GAUGE - Part No. BHA4900

[Sheepdip]

imported post

Thanks Martin - haven't seen this site before and scrolling through made me feel 30 years younger. You reckon green best? I'll give it a try.

[Sheepdip]

imported post

jwallbutton wrote:

OK... so it seems that a capillary temp/oil gauge is a good idea.... There seems to be some complexity fitting this though... Here's the comments from Rimmer Bros website:

Oil Pressure - Water Temperature Dual Gauge Kit

Combined gauge. Fit in place of standard temperature gauge (ideal if retaining electric time clock).

Note:-On triumph Stags, the water temp sensor fits in the RH head (the standard transmitter fits in the LH head). The RH head rear water jacket will require modification in order to install. We do supply a ready-modified water jacket (218436MOD). On other models (Triumph OHV 4 & 6 cyl, Rover V8 etc) 11K2846 adaptor and AED172 washer are required.

Kit Contents:-
1 Oil feed pipe Replacement oil pipe - Part No. RX1260
1 OIL PRESS.& WATER TEMP (COMBINED) GAUGE - Part No. BHA4900

Hi Jon. It does sound daunting but its quite easy. The sensor is a longer bulb than electrical sender, so you need to space it out to prevent it fouling in the transfer cover.

You can fit a separate spacer or it looks as tho Rimmers supply a modified transfer cover. The only thing with the spaceris whether thebulb is still sufficiently in coolant contact, I didn't have a problem.Fitting a transfer cover needs access to remove, clean gasket etc.

I fitted a separate spacer.You take out the old sender, screw in the spacer (can be tricky as mine just had a couple of flats on it), then screw the sensor into this. Obviously don't cut any part of the sensor or pipe!

I bought my gauge and adapter from an online site for about £65, if you want I'll find out who. It didn't come with any oil pressure fittings - but I already had these.

It is a lot but I feel much happier with it - also if I make any changes (header tank etc) I can observe the affect better.

Good luck

Paul

[jwallbutton]

imported post

Sheepdip wrote:

jwallbutton wrote:

OK... so it seems that a capillary temp/oil gauge is a good idea.... There seems to be some complexity fitting this though... Here's the comments from Rimmer Bros website:

Oil Pressure - Water Temperature Dual Gauge Kit

Combined gauge. Fit in place of standard temperature gauge (ideal if retaining electric time clock).

Note:-On triumph Stags, the water temp sensor fits in the RH head (the standard transmitter fits in the LH head). The RH head rear water jacket will require modification in order to install. We do supply a ready-modified water jacket (218436MOD). On other models (Triumph OHV 4 & 6 cyl, Rover V8 etc) 11K2846 adaptor and AED172 washer are required.

Kit Contents:-
1 Oil feed pipe Replacement oil pipe - Part No. RX1260
1 OIL PRESS.& WATER TEMP (COMBINED) GAUGE - Part No. BHA4900

Hi Jon. It does sound daunting but its quite easy. The sensor is a longer bulb than electrical sender, so you need to space it out to prevent it fouling in the transfer cover.

You can fit a separate spacer or it looks as tho Rimmers supply a modified transfer cover. The only thing with the spaceris whether thebulb is still sufficiently in coolant contact, I didn't have a problem.Fitting a transfer cover needs access to remove, clean gasket etc.

I fitted a separate spacer.You take out the old sender, screw in the spacer (can be tricky as mine just had a couple of flats on it), then screw the sensor into this. Obviously don't cut any part of the sensor or pipe!

I bought my gauge and adapter from an online site for about £65, if you want I'll find out who. It didn't come with any oil pressure fittings - but I already had these.

It is a lot but I feel much happier with it - also if I make any changes (header tank etc) I can observe the affect better.

Good luck

Paul

Hi Paul,

Just been doing a google for that spacer to allow installation in to the original temp sender aperture... not had any luck! If you can remember where you got it from, that would be good.

How's everyone else done this? Spacer or modified water jacket?

Cheers

Jon

[Sheepdip]

imported post

Hi Paul,

Just been doing a google for that spacer to allow installation in to the original temp sender aperture... not had any luck! If you can remember where you got it from, that would be good.

Looking through old forums it was mgbhive I bought my gauge+adapter from. http://stagownersclub.mywowbb.com/forum1/4877.html

They don't show the spacer on website but when I phoned the girl suggested one that "most people bought". Also EJWard show one on their web site (£6).

Cheers

Paul

[les M]

imported post

Sheepdip wrote:

les M wrote:

Jon

The one to use from Peter at LD parts is item # 150843A.

Les.

I still don't see the point of fitting asensor that's been doctored to give a nicer reading tho. The Paddocks (and others) I thought were the originals?

Personally I found the capillary gives me more confidence, normally it hovers between 90 -100 but on one towing hill hit 110....and the standard sender (fitted in other head) still showed mildly hot......

Paul

Paul

I fitted one of the sensors from LD parts as I know that Peter is a very reliable chap and only supplies quality parts. How many of the normal suppiers can tell you the correct resistance for the standard stag temp gauge? I have an extra temp sensor fitted to my engine for the EFi system and when that reads 89deg C the stag gauge reads 90deg C. So that's close enough for me, and like they say "it does what is says on the packet"



Les.

[Guest]

imported post

Hi Jon, the Rimmer head conversion is rediculous ! The work involved, not to mention the horrendous cost is completely out of proportion. I got mine, with spacer, from MGBeehive, for about the same price as Paul. I swapped the bezel over to match my Mk 2 dash. Martin.

[elvimto]

imported post

I have added a combination oil temp gauge to my car I put the capillary from the temp gauge in the right hand head and the standard sender on the left, should I have the other way around ? My thought was to have a comparison reading seeing the temp on the right hand head and leaving the sender to read the left. I did not know at the time the left is the hot spot and now I am thinking ifI should change it around. what do you think?

cheers Stuart

[Sheepdip]

imported post

Hi Stuart, I guess from whats said that the capillary should be in the L/H, and would be interesting to know what the difference is. That said it would probably be better in the manifold where it would get the balanced temperature. Either way I find it givesa better feeling of whats happening than the vague standard gauge.

Paul

[elvimto]

imported post

There is an adapter http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-11K2846
you use its on Rimmer bros site and many other suppliers this screws into the head and then you fit the bulb from the capillary. After reading this thread last night I decided to swapover my set up,removed the sending unit from the left hand head then removed the adapter from the right this was easy sinceI installed it on the vee sideof thetransfer housing then installed the sender unit almost done. Screwed the adapter into the left hand head then spent the next hour tightening it up, its a pain since it does not have a regular hex to turn it withI used a 3/4 crows foot wrench a small pipe wrench any thing that would turn it finally I put the bulb in it and used the nut on that to turn it just enough to get me close to tight and finally with a small pipe wrench. If you are going to do this it might be worth your while to remove the transfer housing. So now I will have the gauge reading on the left head and the sending unit type on the right. Still to get the system filled and try to start the car back up... maybe by next week end.....

Cheers Stuart

[Sheepdip]

imported post

Hi Stuart, will be interesting to hear what you find.

The adapter is a pain, I found a plug socket jammed over gave enough hold to tighten, wouldn't be difficult to grind some flats on it, I wouldn't take the cover off, if it don't leak then leave alone!

Paul

[TimShoubridge]

imported post

Just to add my two penneth. I also used the sender from Peter and had an immediate result of the needle sitting just left of the first dot. Mentally, a lot happier chappy.

However, I also had Alan (from the forum) calibrate my gauge as after all theseyears I had no ideahow accurate it was. That took the needle way left and it now sits at 1/4. I have a header tank so that may help but I just feel sometimes we overlook the accuracy of the gauge and concentrate on the sender too much.

Tim

[stag8manod]

imported post

Hi guys, Just seen these posts. I fitted my capillary guage into the r/hand side of the thermostat housing.

Cheers Ian A

[Sheepdip]

imported post

Hi Ian, I guess it should be in hottest part of engine but it doesn't make much difference, just gives you better ideaof whats happening under the bonnet. Mine hit 110c towing up a hill last year and the electric gauge was just above normal, allowed it to recover at top and capillary quickly went down which gave me confidence nothing was wrong. This low/middle/near red tells you nothing.