If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. Registration to this Forum is open to Members of The Stag Owners Club (SOC) and Affiliated Overseas Clubs. Non members with an interest in the Triumph Stag may avail of a 30 day trial membership of the Forum. Details in the FAQ section. Registration is not necessary if you just wish to view the forums. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Thanks for the replies, looks like someone has removed the valve rather than fix it, there seems to be some sign of brazing around the inlet pipe.
I get very little heat from the heater, I was hoping it was the valve at fault, but if there isn't one the flow through the matrix must be permanent, perhapsthe matrix is allclogged up. I tried flushing the heater through and didn't get any sediment or muck coming out though. Looks like a replacement matrix is in order, unless someone knows how to clean it through.
A couple of pointers before you start ripping things apart to get to the matrix (a pig of a job by the way)
Are you sure the engine is getting up to temperature? What thermostat is fitted? Is it missing? With the current freezing conditions, a 'cold' thermostat (74*) or none at all could mean the matrix is not getting enough hot water.
How hot do the heater matrix inlet and outlet pipes get? If they are getting hot it could be the flap not opening when you move the right hand lever from top (closed) to bottom (open). Check the operating cable, and its securing clip,is connected and the flap actually moves.
When you flushed the heater I take it you undid both hoses and connected a hosepipe to one and flushed through the other? Did you get a good flow?
You want to be sure you have eliminated all other problems before starting to remove the matrix as the dashboard has to be removed (or at least pulled into the car) to gain access to the heater box.
Dave
Dave
1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.
The enginehad a 74 thermostat but i replaced it with a 88 as the car was running cold. The heater inlet and outlet pipes are quite hot to touch. The flap at the bottom is open, i can see the matrix. Is there another flap? When I set the lever to cold I get cold air, when the lever is set to hot I get slight warm air. What does this lever actually operate, as there is no valve on my heater? Its doing something to change the air temperature.
I flushed the heater as you described and flushed both ways, flow was good and no sediment came through.
If the temp regulating lever makes a difference it has to be moving something.The lever moves the cable which would have been attached to the valve that is missing. It shouldnt be too hard to find that cable and see where it finishes up.I must admit that from your photo it looks as if it is still running to where the valve should have been.
Looking at the picture of your missing valve (?) my initial thought was that someone had done a fairly decent and competent job and perhaps put a valve on elsewhere.It might not be connected to the cable and could be a simple on/off tap.
Guys, I'm having the opposite problem - I'm being cooked by a heater I can't turn off! The valve (mine is still where it should be!) was siezed and the connection to it bent out of shape - probably due to heavy handed attempts to turn it off. I freed it up with some plus gas and straightened as best I could the linkage to it, but it still doesn't work well. I'm assuming I can drain the matrix and take the screw out of the valve casing and extract/clean/replace it. Is that so? Thanks. Russ
just because the arm on the valve is moving dosen't mean the barrel is rotating.more than likely the hole with a flat side to it on the arm which locates on the barrel has become round and so won't turn it.thats what happened to mine .if you look at the picture of mine you will see i have replaced the small philips screw with a bolt and also i put 3 center pop marks in the arm to corispond with 3 small holes i drilled in the brass barrel (not too deep though)to give it a good key
Getting the barrel out can be a bit of a job if it has jammed in the housing as mine had because there isn't much of it sticking out and my gripskept slipping off (they say put the bolt back in after removing the arm and pull on that but "No way" was mine going to move like that)so what i ended up doing was using a large washer held on with the centre bolt to bolt the grips to the barrel which stopped them slipping off,then it moved quite easily.I was trying for hours before this but this method took 2 minutes after i found the right bolt & washer.
save yourself a lot of work and fit a cable inline valve under bonnet;with longer cable.
but yes it has gone, it was proberly like mine solid had to drill out and fit secondhand part.its funny the things people do.
Comment