lost12 volt supply!!

[DJT]

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Andy Rundell wrote:

As Nigel says youshould find the switched accessory feed for the radio around there somewhere.

White/Pink wire usually behind the flap of carpet below the heater in the driver's footwell.

Dave

[catlotion]

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excellent - thanks chaps!

I actually quite like car wiring. It's one of the few times when I don't get disheartened by discovering new rust!

[turbineman]

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hi all,
simplest way to wire stereo is two cables from ignition relay in passenger side footwell behind parcel shelf go to relay top right hand side ,heater and rhw.
Double up with "piggy spade crimps" got for pennies at electrical wholesalers not really available at car accessories shops.
anyway simply uplug spades on relay crimp piggyback TO THE TWO new WIRES and existing cables push on piggy back.
this is there actual name not slang.
of course put fuses inline type to protect your stereo/car.
i have some and if you cant get a hold of any i will get aphoto to show these.
but much simpler than running cables to battery.
oh and nigels coloured circuit helps no end cheers again nigel

[turbineman]

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ps forgot to say this ignition relay has permanent feed and switched feed present.
the drawing will show this but just thought would say.

also what about fixing the fuse box gentlemen and ladies of course any ideas????

[Thurlo Squire]

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turbineman wrote:

ps forgot to say this ignition relay has permanent feed and switched feed present.
the drawing will show this but just thought would say.

also what about fixing the fuse box gentlemen and ladies of course any ideas????

If you are still needing a replacement fuse box then try this

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/justriumph-TRI...item45f420db73

Nigel

[comeinhandy]

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The original fuse box is usually repairable if you can solder and have a good soldering iron, and preferably the old type lead/tin solder.

I would recommend every stag has the fuse box soldered so that the blade terminals on both sides are soldered onto the rivets that are meant to join the front and back connection blades together. With age, moisture, possible drips of water from the bonnet join nearby and possibly a missing cover, the copper rivets and blade connectors oxidize over time so that the copper rivets no longer make connection, even if they are not loose.

I had many missing and dodgy connections when I first got my stag and would recommend the soldering up as one of those essential restoration/ improvement jobs. Suddenly lots of circuits starting working again when I did mine. Cheaper that a new box if you don't mind spending a bit of time cleaning up and soldering.

[turbineman]

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cheers lads,
i will dilll out the rivets and use brass m4/m6 x 20 or 30 bolt and nut cover in moisture contact paste i will then hopefully be finished with it.
finding time is the hard part.
any tried blade type fuse as opposed to glass fuses?