Stag restoration

[Luigi]

Hi Neil,
thanks for the info, makes more sense now

luigi

[Luigi]

Hi all,
started work on the bottom of the car today, and tried to sort out the rusty chassis… starting from the front and working back.! This could take some time but here is the progress so far
IMG_1073.jpg IMG_1100.jpg IMG_1101.jpg IMG_1103.jpg

luigi

[flying farmer]

looking better already!

[Luigi]

Hi Neil,
Thanks mate, lots to do yet, one day I will get there

luigi

[Luigi]

Hi All,
I have to replace the two rear spring cups on my stag and just wonder what the hole is for in the middle? Surely that will let water and crap in, which will rot them out again… just wanted to know what you all think about welding these holes up?
IMG_1105.jpg
luigi

[flying farmer]

I would leave the hole, it will act as ventilation to prevent condensation in there, and also be a good place to inject rust proofing wax. You could always put a rubber grommet in there as a compromise, I have done that on some of the outside holes on the chassis of my TR to prevent direct water splash getting into the chassis

[Luigi]

Hi Neil,
thanks for your reply, never thought about condensation, and yes I can fill it with wax..

[Luigi]

Hi all,
a little more progress this weekend, I managed to grind off the old spring cup, and found a little rot in the chassis, so ready to cut out and repair, and also repairs to the back end of the floor..
IMG_1107.jpg IMG_1106.jpg

luigi

[Luigi]

IMG_1110.jpg
job done….. and a little bit of rust converter

luigi

[flying farmer]

It is always good to keep nibbling away at these jobs and watching the list get smaller!

[Luigi]

Hi Neil,
thanks for your reply, I am taking it slowly so that I can catch every bit of rust and bad repair, and try and do the jobs as good as I can, sometimes it’s getting a little overwhelming looking at the list, but as you say just keep nibbling away at it, and hopefully I will get there…. It’s a case of one step forward and two steps back at the moment, but it’s certainly a challenge I’d like to win..

luigi

[Luigi]

Hi All,
had a good weekend working on the stag, managed to cut out all the rot and poor repairs on the other side of the front chassis, took a bit of head scratching, but got there in the end
IMG_1112.jpg IMG_1115.jpg IMG_1116.jpg IMG_1119.jpg IMG_1120.jpg
all I have now is 300 years of grinding and cleaning up and I will be ready for primer on the bottom….
luigi

[Luigi]

Hi all,
a little help please if you would, firstly the single exhaust hanger which is at a slant, is that welded to a small reinforcement piece or direct to the boot floor? And secondly after checking around the car for any extra welding to be done, I have noticed that there is not a jacking point welded inside the front of the passenger sill, all others are there… any ideas as how I would get this in now..? I don’t thing leaving it out would be an option, what a pain !!

many thanks luigi

[ramjam2005]

Hi all,
a little help please if you would, firstly the single exhaust hanger which is at a slant, is that welded to a small reinforcement piece or direct to the boot floor? And secondly after checking around the car for any extra welding to be done, I have noticed that there is not a jacking point welded inside the front of the passenger sill, all others are there… any ideas as how I would get this in now..? I don’t thing leaving it out would be an option, what a pain !!

many thanks luigi

Hi Luigi

Re the exhaust hangers, I can't be sure as mine detached itself years back and I simply drilled a hole and bolted back on. But think the single hanger is welded direct to boot floor. Whereas the double hanger has a strengthening plate as can be seen in photo below.

If no one else confirms, I'll crawl underneath tomorrow and confirm.

As for the jacking point, if your passenger sill is currently all neatly welded up, I would imagine the only way to fit one would entail careful localised open surgery.

• Option A - Cut out a section of the outer sill skin, (1mm thin cutting disc) weld the jacking point strengthener to it then neatly reweld the section back in and dress the two lengths of welding.
• Option B - Damage limitation by cutting open top of sill where door shut/step is and another underneath on bottom of sill around where the round hole is of the jack locating lug protrudes. Weld the jacking post to the cut-out pieces (or new pieces), feed it back in from either top or bottom and reweld back onto sill holes.

Option B gives you less visible welding to dress and keeps the visible curved sill surface looking neat . Needless to say, make sure your continuous welds are good and solid.If you don't weld one in there's the danger someone may unwittingly jack up the car and your sill will compress or collapse.

A few restorers have said that the original BL pressed steel jacking point supports are not upto the job and use a small boxed steel length instead ( or prefer NOT to jack the car up by those points)

IMG_3428 copy.jpg

[Luigi]

Hi ram jam,

thanks very much for your reply, both brilliant suggestions. And better than what I was considering, I thought I might have to cut the bottom of the front wing, then the end of the sill and slide the jacking point in, but I will do as you suggested, As usual I have overthought this, apart from that, I think I have finished the welding on the shell, and am looking forward to getting some primer on

thanks again

luigi