Still cutting out

[Tonyw]

Plan for today,,,

Change the ignition switch, double check the + and - wiring to the coil, look for a ballast resister amongst the years of accumulated car junk in my garage!, and if I find one make up a ballasted hot wire system

Ps can't remove the lumintion as I don't have points etc to replace it so only way I can eliminate that is buying replacement parts. I'm fairly sure the fault is in the lumintion but £150 is a lot to waste if it's just a dodgy connection somewhere else

Gary

Hi Gary,
I contacted luminition re a faulty unit and they pointed me to their web site. They have a tech bulliten (17) for checking all the different things that could be wrong.
They say in the bulliten that they have only found a few faulty units and normally the fault is in the connections etc.

If you go to their site and look under support and tech bullitens you will find the info.

Tony

[grumpy2]

Thanks for that tony. Will have a look

Gary

Had a look, basically says " check the connections our stuff rarely fails", thanks anyway

Hmmmm

[Lingen]

Gary. Definitely an ignition problem. If it is a Mk 1 with a ballast resistor next to the coil, I had one that played up when it got hot, and quickly recovered when the ignition was switched off, so perhaps check that out. If you decide it is the Lumenition,, may I suggest a way to save yourself about £100 anyway. I have just fitted a Powerspark module to my car, to replace an old Newtronic/Piranha optical system. These are magnetically triggered, and the single component fits simply inside the distributor. I was slightly dubious that something so inexpensive would do the job properly, but it is really impressive. The engine now runs incredibly smoothly, and pulls away in top from 1000 rpm without complaint-should you feel inclined to drive like that! It certainly pulls up hills noticeably better. Best £30 I ever spent, and you get a new rotor arm with it. Mike.

[grumpy2]

Mike, thanks for the heads up on the powers park system, looks like something I had on an MG called the Pertronix. Well worth considering at a fraction of the price.

Things never go as planned do they? Friends in crisis so all stag work halted for time being! Priorities!!

Gary

[grumpy2]

Had a fiddle today, managed to change the ignition switch, cut out after 12 miles. Hotwired the ignition with a ballast resister feed and didn't cut out after 15 miles.

Now a really awkward question...

Fuese connections 3 and 19 are connected internally I believe and are both live side of switched 12v. Each has 3 white wires connected, one will be the feed for the existing ballasted wire but which one? I can eliminate 2 as they are single wires which leaves two spade connectors each with 2 white wires of similar thickness. I want to remove the ballasted wire and connect a new wire through the ballast resister. Which wire do I remove?

Think I've explained that correctly

Gary

[Stagsongas]

Gary,

Can you eliminate one of the two remaining wires using a multimeter set for continiuty, beginning with the known ballasted connection at one end, to identify which is which at the other?

Good Luck

Steve

[grumpy2]

That's what I thought at first but because tree are two wires in one spade I don't know which of the two makes the circuit with the resistive wire without cutting one or the other, and there are two pairs all at the same potential. I may be able to narrow it down to one pair but the resistive method though.

Gary