Electric windows not working

[milothedog]

I have now and you are dead right. I have put a amp meter across the cut out contacts and with one window operating it draws approx 3.5 amps when the window reaches it's travel it goes up to 8amps so it does not break contact it basically jammes the motor.

[milothedog]

Agreed. We use a lot of them in electronic design. Much lower current rating though!

Cheers,
Mike.

They were rated up to 40 amps in some applications we used. You do get what you pay for though, so I would avoid anything on the bay and source them from an auto electrical supplier.

Ian.

[milothedog]

This may be off help, I would try it with a 10amp first and see how it goes. (remember both windows will be running through it) you could always uprate it later to a 15 amp if you get nuisance tripping.

http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/285/category/60

Ian.

[davidf]

This may be off help, I would try it with a 10amp first and see how it goes. (remember both windows will be running through it) you could always uprate it later to a 15 amp if you get nuisance tripping.

http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/285/category/60

Ian.

Could I venture to disagree with your recommended ratings? Based on Staggard's test that one motor draws 8 amps when stalled, you need a cut-out at less than 8 amps. Otherwise, if anything goes wrong on one circuit (you fall asleep with your finger on the switch, or the innards of a switch get stuck), it will sit there drawing 8 amps till something gets too hot. Bear in mind that 8 amps at 12 volts is about 100 watts, so that is the heat of an old 100 watt lightbulb in the confined space of the window lift motor.
Having lost one Stag to a fire which started in a jammed wiper motor, I wouldn't want to encourage overheating motors.
You have a very small margin to run 2 windows together if they take 3.5 amps running; it means you need a cut-out between 7 and 8 amps.

Perhaps we need a better test on these numbers?

[milothedog]

Could I venture to disagree with your recommended ratings? Based on Staggard's test that one motor draws 8 amps when stalled, you need a cut-out at less than 8 amps. Otherwise, if anything goes wrong on one circuit (you fall asleep with your finger on the switch, or the innards of a switch get stuck), it will sit there drawing 8 amps till something gets too hot. Bear in mind that 8 amps at 12 volts is about 100 watts, so that is the heat of an old 100 watt lightbulb in the confined space of the window lift motor.
Having lost one Stag to a fire which started in a jammed wiper motor, I wouldn't want to encourage overheating motors.
You have a very small margin to run 2 windows together if they take 3.5 amps running; it means you need a cut-out between 7 and 8 amps.

Perhaps we need a better test on these numbers?

You may of course disagree and I agree with you that if some more readings were taken to get a better idea you could fit a fuse accordingly but I based what I said on worst case scenario of both windows being closed at once and a little margin. I often do this myself. And you don't want it tripping every time you accidentally hold the switch down too long, I know I often just hold the switches briefly to make sure the windows are fully shut when leaving the car.

Anyone know what the old Trips are rated at

Bad luck with the wiper motor, I suppose that's a problem that could happen to any really due to it having a permanent live feed

Ian

[rac]

without wanting to appear thick where is this cut out to be found?

[milothedog]

without wanting to appear thick where is this cut out to be found?

On the relay board behind the parcel shelf.

Ian

[Staggard]

On the relay board behind the parcel shelf.

Ian

Mine's not it's in the dustbin under the sink

[milothedog]

Mine's not it's in the dustbin under the sink

Doesn't that limit how far you can drive due to the length of the cables


Is that allowed Humor

[davidf]

Doesn't that limit how far you can drive due to the length of the cables


Is that allowed Humor

Perhaps it is a cordless version?

Reminds me of a funny story - many years ago, not long after getting our first cordless phone, I went to buy a new kettle. The lady in the shop asked if I would like to see the new cordless models. My mind immediately started to think of the dangers of radiating 3kw from a base station at one end of the kitchen to a kettle at the other end!

Ah well - soon realised it was just a simpler method of disconnecting the kettle to fill it - not really cordless at all!

[Staggard]

Doesn't that limit how far you can drive due to the length of the cables


Is that allowed Humor

In answer to your second question NO it's not allowed go stand in the corner until I send you a PM tomorrow. The answer to your first question is, you can drive as far as you like as long as you don't want to open the windows. I hope I haven't been too flippant

[rac]

On the relay board behind the parcel shelf.

Ian

thanks Ian looks like you are one of the sane people on here-too much frivolity and humour is not allowed!

[Chris810]

I started this thread some time ago and have just come back to see how it is getting on as I understand it I need to replace the thermal cut out with a blade type fuse holder with a resettable fuse, fantastic thanks

I was involved in the rebooting of the forum into its present form some years ago and I am impressed with its current usability , so how do I get the bl##dy drivers window up out of the door so I can move the stag outside to work on other cars ?

[Staggard]

I started this thread some time ago and have just come back to see how it is getting on as I understand it I need to replace the thermal cut out with a blade type fuse holder with a resettable fuse, fantastic thanks

I was involved in the rebooting of the forum into its present form some years ago and I am impressed with its current usability , so how do I get the bl##dy drivers window up out of the door so I can move the stag outside to work on other cars ?

How far have you got fixing the switches?? if you have removed the thermal cut out via the spade connectors a mini blade fuse should plug straight in, if you don't have one cant you bridge the connectors with a bit of fuse wire. I say that just in case you have a short you don't want to burn anything out. Graham

[Chris810]

Well I finally got to look at the car again yesterday so I thought I would update you all anyone with a delicate nature look away now.

first I took off both door cards taking the view that I would start at the root cause and work back, after getting my wife to locate the wires to the electric motors and unhook them ( she has smaller hands than me ) I put 12 v through the motors to check that they worked and they both did, so not a problem at the doors then.
I then dived under the dash to find the thermal cutout and had a look at it , mine was not on connectors and was soldered in so I gave the top of the unit a little pull and the cover came off exposing the innards as three thin copper plates with a gap between them all. Tried the window switches ( rebuilt after abuse by brother in law) no window action!
Pressed the plates together with my fingers success, so I bent the central plate so that it contacted one of the outer plates and put the cover back on. It all works again. Now I just need two new door cards and a parcel shelf! Having had a good look at them I have realised how crappy they really are. Oh well it's only money and time and effort