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    #46
    Originally posted by Nigel W View Post
    Its certainly a fantastic bit of kit, but at just over £3000 in the UK, its too expensive for me. The Automech version at just over half that looks really good value to me, and that is the direction my thoughts are heading.
    www.automotechservices.co.uk/products/as-7530d-garage-scissor-lift/
    Holy Crikey! I didn't pay that much for it here!

    As for the Chinese lifts I guess that's anyone's decision. Probably wouldn't go down that way myself though.

    Last edited by dasadrew; 2 March 2015, 08:17.
    The answer isn't 42, it's 1/137

    Comment


      #47
      Hi Nigel,

      If you review e bay you'll see the variety of scissor lifts available. There is another lift like the Strongman Clifton and the Automotech 7530D which is an Orangy red marketed as a 1503L (no name posted, likely a Chinese version but most like the Automotech).
      The costings when I was researching it were Strongman Clifton £2200 inc Vat the Automotech 7530 (careful there's a 7630 also which scissors but has a surface travelling foot) at £1650 inc Vat plus delivery and the 1503L was about £1320 Vat inc plus delivery. The Strongman has the reputation for being an excellent home use Scissor lift and possibly the best on the market. It's sophisticated with a safety orientated multi speed drop facility ie the ramps drop at full speed to about 8" above floor level and then stop requiring another application which drops the ramps at 1/2 speed down to the floor. The Automotech operation is I think more basic but still safe and I had chosen the Automotech 7530 as being my choice to buy before I found the Strongman. The 1503L looks very similar to the Automotech in build and likely even may have the same manufacturer, however in the event of problems the Automotech with it's marketing support in the UK will likely provide a method to resolve the problem.

      In the interest of saving your neck it's important that they have suitable safety systems, the Strongman has "parachute" valves in line which in the event of a rapid release of oil (even if the hand controls are maladjusted allowing too quick a ramp drop) automatically close, stopping the ramps moving. The pressure dissipates slowly (think about 6-7 hours here) allowing the ramps to creep back down to floor level and ample time to make sure all is clear underneath. As a secondary safety system quite separate, it also has a mechanical pneumatic release operation safety hook system (like a large ratchet) on each arm operating the ramps which when you operate the lift upwards clunks as the safety hooks traverse the teeth. When I use the lift I operate the lifting air valves to lift the safety hooks first which stops prevents any noise and then drop the air from the system with the ramps in their final position and then drop the ramps (maybe an inch) allowing the safety hooks to engage with the teeth.

      As regards an air feed for the pneumatic safety locks a small air compressor suitable to blow up tyres is fine, it takes about 3 secs for the compressor to reach the maximum I use of 50lbs in the line (hardly any capacity, just pressure) which lifts the safety locks. I then dump the air allowing the safety locks to close and the ramps to settle on them. Because the used Strongman Clifton I bought was a special no frills build these actions are manual. All this is automated on the Strongman Clifton model retailed which lifts arms and dumps air etc all from the control box as you switch from up to park etc.

      The Automotech has a similar mechanical safety system, however I'm not sure if they employ parachute valves also, however it was my choice based upon affordability. But make sure there is a mechanical safety system on which lift you go for.

      Micky

      Comment


        #48
        Here's my CJAutos mini lift in operation. Not as professional as some those mentioned on here but nothing like as expensive IIRC it was only around £400ish.

        Pic also for Dave (NewtoThis) as promised !

        Cheers

        Julian

        DSCN1317.jpg
        DSCN1481.jpg

        Comment


          #49
          Originally posted by dasadrew View Post
          Similar to Micky's lift is the Nussbaum Sprinter.



          To be honest, as Micky indicated, it's probably only financially viable as a used bargain. I got mine off eBay in new unused condition from a private individual who'd given up the hobby before he unpacked the lift! Beware that they may need 3-phase supply (380V). They also weigh a ton themselves if you go to pick up a bargain somwhere!

          I would have loved to have recessed mine in the floor too, but I would have been into earth if I'd cut out the garage floor!

          [ATTACH=CONFIG]32456[/ATTACH]























          [ATTACH=CONFIG]32457[/ATTACH]

          Yes, when my builder put my scissor lift in we measured the floor depth (drilled it) and it came out at 150mm deep, so it was cut out until we came to hardcore and then dug out a further 150mm to allow backfilling and a cement block pouring in to bring the scissor lift surface up to 110mm below surface level. There is a video here showing how it's done (not mine).

          After marking out where the lift will go, the perimeter is then scored on the first pass, then wet cut to full depth on the second. T...


          These scissor lifts weigh in at about 520kg so unless your garage floor is glass smooth I recommend not trying to move them unless you have friends and trolley jacks. There is a very useful Strongman video showing how the lift arrives, is commissioned and put into use, also a few other useful feeds off their web site.





          Micky

          Comment


            #50
            Motorsport Mickey

            Would you be kind enough to repost your last, without the original post from Dasadrew? For some reason his 2 photos are formatted over half of your post and I can't read what you put. Well the left half!

            Nigel

            Comment


              #51
              Here you go Nigel,

              Yes, when my builder put my scissor lift in we measured the floor depth (drilled it) and it came out at 150mm deep, so it was cut out until we came to hardcore and then dug out a further 150mm to allow backfilling and a cement block pouring in to bring the scissor lift surface up to 110mm below surface level. There is a video here showing how it's done (not mine).

              After marking out where the lift will go, the perimeter is then scored on the first pass, then wet cut to full depth on the second. T...



              These scissor lifts weigh in at about 520kg so unless your garage floor is glass smooth I recommend not trying to move them unless you have friends and trolley jacks. There is a very useful Strongman video showing how the lift arrives, is commissioned and put into use, also a few other useful feeds off their web site.





              Micky
              Last edited by Motorsport Micky; 2 March 2015, 19:53.

              Comment


                #52
                Thanks Mickey

                Comment


                  #53
                  Following all your good advice, I ordered a strongman at the restoration show, and it arrived yesterday. The only problem is that the colour clashes with the car!

                  photo.jpg

                  Comment


                    #54
                    Looks good Nigel, a full respray of the car will sort the clashing schemes out lol, just a point on lifting with it.

                    I use a rubber block (approx. 50mm thick ) on top of a small wooden block about 20mm thick under each rubber front and back on the ramps, that helps to give space underneath for the exhausts etc not to foul the lift.
                    I pick up and lift under the rear subframe bushes and mounts and I use a movable steel crossbearer at the front which allows me to pick up on the chassis section either side of the gearbox tunnel, because of their relatively narrow width these fall within the ramps which have a 820mm space between them front to rear.
                    I can't see a crossbearer on your ramps and so I anticipate you are lifting direct on the sections which come off these chassis sections and adjoin to the sills (sorry can't remember the name for them ). I notice there has been some discussion on the forum regarding the corrosion which attack these items and so I use the chassis sections themselves and put the blocks upon them.

                    Micky

                    Comment


                      #55
                      Mickey, good spot. I did get a cross member ready but did not realise quite how low the exhaust was. So I had a good check of the outriggers, and placed the rubber blocks at the inner edges of the lift platform to be as near to the chassis rails as possible. If you have any details of the cross bearer you have, that would be very helpful, as I think for regular use it would be better.

                      Comment


                        #56
                        After receiving my lift it raised the car easily unfortunately on lowering only one side came down. There I was on my own with my precious Stag tittering on its side , took a lot of work but I got her down safely . The gearbox sections were replaced but the new ones were no good so the whole unit was replaced .when raised it sounded like rubbing a brick over your bonnet. Sent it back got a refund . Having said that their c s dept were very good . Now replaced with 3 ton jack and lifting bar , lifts to 53 & cms. And 4 x 6 ton axle stands which reach 53 cm . They will do for my Cherokee too. Would love to get a hydraulic lifter but just could not warrant the cost. Should have taken you up on your offer to view your lifter Julian then I would have seen a decent one.
                        Still never to old to learn.
                        Michael.

                        Comment


                          #57
                          Originally posted by michael View Post
                          Should have taken you up on your offer to view your lifter Julian then I would have seen a decent one.
                          Still never to old to learn.
                          Michael.
                          Hi Michael,

                          You're still welcome to come and look - it's certainly better tnan a jack and lifting bar and not too expensive

                          Cheers

                          Julian

                          Comment


                            #58
                            Cheers might well do that,

                            Michael.

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