Timing Chains replacement

[1977Brian]

Hi all,
I joined the club last year, but this is the first time I've used the Forum. I'm living in the west of Ireland, so I've very little access to knowledge or guidance on the Stag's peculiarities. I have a Tropical blue 1977 Stag. Running reasonably well since I got it 18 months ago.

I have been advised to change the timing chains, so I decided to do it myself, to get to know things a bit better and identify any other pending problems that should be attended to.
I've a few questions that I need answers to on the timing chains.
When looking in at the sprockets with the timing chain cover off, and the crank and cam sprockets at their markings for piston 2 at TDC, the Jack shaft sprocket is not as described in the manual (scribe line at just below the 3:00 0 clock position). It's either at the 05:00 o clock position or the 02:30 position. The engine was running fine before I opened it up, so could someone explain what is happening.

The chain tensioners that I got from Rimmer Bros do not have oil ports in them as described in the manual. Has there been a design changed with these ?

The sump gasket got damaged while loosening the joint to get the timing chain cover off. Can I avoid taking the sump off to clean and close the joint?

Looking forward to hearing from you.

Regards, Brian

[Mark Shutt]

there are several positions that the line on the jackshaft will lie, keep turning engine to TDC until it's just after 3 o'clock, if it never lies at that position then it's out with distributor setting.. that's not to mean it's wrong and I would leave well alone and just make sure you have some kind of reference for rebuild!

you shouldn't have to take the sump off to fix the damaged gasket, Wellseal or Dirko should be able to fix it! I found dropping the front of the sump just a little helped with re-fit and I used some metal filler spreaders from Poundshop (pack of 6) as shims to slide the cover back on worked a treat

Mark.

[flying farmer]

I would just make sure the jackshaft sprocket stays in the same position when you have replaced the chains, otherwise you will have to remove the distributor and turn it onto another tooth if you want the sprocket where it is supposed to be.

I assume your tensioner oil holes are in the pad of the tensioner, this was the earlier design. The current ones have the oil hole in the shaft of the tensioner so a jet of oil sprays onto the chain before it reaches the rubber pad of the tensioner. Use a pin to check the hole actually goes all the way through as there have been reports of faulty ones with blocked oil holes.

When the chain is fitted and correctly tensioned, the oil hole should be just clear of the end of the tensioner body so it doesn't obstruct the flow of oil.

Neil