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Google is my friend also but having read in another classic car club forum of basic and even dangerous errors in such commercial looms I would prefer to find on this club website original Triumph loom maps so I can duplicate myself!
Hi Tanya, No problem and thanks for the Tip. It will be good to Learn about Car Electrics too. I've just bought it from Amazon but got to wait 3 weeks for delivery ! ?
Hi Tanya, No problem and thanks for the Tip. It will be good to Learn about Car Electrics too. I've just bought it from Amazon but got to wait 3 weeks for delivery ! ?
I found the Wires Taped up when I first got the CAR. I found an old set of points and an old Balast Resistor in glove box. The PO fitted a new Coil and new Electronic ignition NEWTRONICS I think it was called and was not using the Balast Resistor. It must be a 12V Ballast Coil ??
Although I replaced the Coil as it was leak fluid. I installed a LUCUS one and bought a new Balast Resistor and reconnected all the Wires. NO Idea if I did the Right thing but it seemed to Work / Start ok
Then I discovered the ENGINE and Gearbox was SCRAP, so the Car came off the Road. And My Nightmare and MoneyPit continues !
Nick, if the ballast wires are taped up, how did you fit a ballast. There seems to be a lot of confusion over ignition wiring on the stag.
At the risk of boring everyone, or starting another 'ballast debate' the original stag system uses a ballast coil with a ballast resistor (Mk2 ballast is part of the wring loom). This is a good system, which I think should be retained. But if it has been changed, some problems can arise in the following circumstances:
1. If a non ballast coil is fitted with a ballast the spark will be vey weak.
2. If a ballast coil is fitted without a ballast the coil will overheat.
3. If the ballast is in the loom and a Mk1 type ballast is fitted in addition, the spark will be very weak.
4. If a non-ballast coil is fitted without a ballast the spark will be normal during running, but weaker during cranking compared to the ballasted system.
Nick, if the ballast wires are taped up, how did you fit a ballast. There seems to be a lot of confusion over ignition wiring on the stag.
At the risk of boring everyone, or starting another 'ballast debate' the original stag system uses a ballast coil with a ballast resistor (Mk2 ballast is part of the wring loom). This is a good system, which I think should be retained. But if it has been changed, some problems can arise in the following circumstances:
1. If a non ballast coil is fitted with a ballast the spark will be vey weak.
2. If a ballast coil is fitted without a ballast the coil will overheat.
3. If the ballast is in the loom and a Mk1 type ballast is fitted in addition, the spark will be very weak.
4. If a non-ballast coil is fitted without a ballast the spark will be normal during running, but weaker during cranking compared to the ballasted system.
I hope that's helpful and not too confusing?
I un-taped the white (cream) and orange wires which someone had written Balast on them and Connected them to my new Coil. Not sure it was a good idea as it was a New Lucus 12v Balast Coil
Google is my friend also but having read in another classic car club forum of basic and even dangerous errors in such commercial looms I would prefer to find on this club website original Triumph loom maps so I can duplicate myself!
H
You just use the original as a pattern for wire length check colours against the wireing diagram then you can include/exclude which sections you choose. Vehicle Wireing Products have all the bits you need, I have made a fair few for cars and bikes. Should be a piece of cake for you Aich.
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