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Head Honcho Cylinder Head Removal Tool

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    #31
    Originally posted by milothedog View Post
    That could work against you though if the force applied was enough to splay the end of the stud making it wedge in the head more
    Good point Ian, although I guess it all depends on the size of your balls !!

    cheers

    julian

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      #32
      Originally posted by jleyton View Post
      Good point Ian, although I guess it all depends on the size of your balls !!

      cheers

      julian
      And don't forget the balls on the left hand side need to be lower than on the right.

      Comment


        #33
        Originally posted by jleyton View Post
        I thought that the more complex puller pulled the heads up the studs and so didn't bend them - not that you'd want to re- use them

        One, apparently brilliant, idea in the link from the first post when using the puller, was to drill a countersink in the top of the corroded stud and insert a ball bearing. Doing the same on the 'pushing' bolt will ensure that the bolt doesn't go off centre.

        I've always wondered whether, when using the pusher, there's any risk of damage to the outer edge of the head when it levers against it

        Cheers

        Julian
        the studs are at the same angle whether pulling or pushing. I cant see how the studs remain straight pulling

        Outer edge of the head - do you mean within the V or the block to face head by the exhaust manifolds?

        Head faces inside the v are protected by dirty girt lumps of steel
        the outer edges are clear from the first part of the push, I took my time and the only bits that got close were the cam timing gear and guide, and the exhaust manifold -downpipe flange
        Stags and Range Rover Classics - I must be a loony

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          #34
          Originally posted by richardthestag View Post
          the studs are at the same angle whether pulling or pushing. I cant see how the studs remain straight pulling
          If you use a tool such as shown in the pictures above, the bolts screw down onto the studs and, in theory, the head rises off the block and slides up the studs as the bolts push down. The studs don't bend.

          If you use the pusher system with a couple of pieces of hefty angle iron bolted to each head and screw bolts or hydraulic jacks to push one head against the other, then the studs will bend. It is also advisable (so I found out by experience) to remove the timing chain and support bracket on that head as it will get bent.
          Dave
          1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

          Comment


            #35
            You cannot see them in the pictures but I have a piece of hex bar drilled just bigger than the stud and a ball bearing on top of the stud the jacking bolts have a cupped end on them so the ball bearing fits into them. Once the head starts moving and you free it up you can remove the hex bar and ball bearing. When I removed the heads on my car I read a lot from this forum and the US one,when you are over in the US you do not want to screw it up parts are not easy to come by. Also on one of the heads once it was raised up about 1 inch I use a pipe wrench and mole grips to screw out some of the studs. No system is ideal but its about making it work and getting an end result.
            cheers Stuart

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