Rear wheels

[Lingen]

Andrew. A further suggestion. The sort of "Rhythm" you describe could be a distorted tyre due to the carcass failing. I have had it happen more than once. It will often only show up when there is a load on it. It might become obvious if someone follows you while you are driving it.
The metallic clatter is probably the backlash in the diff with no momentum from the wheels to override it. I wouldn't worry about it.
Mike.

[Andrew S]

Thanks Mike
These tyres have been fitted since the ESM and wheels re-balanced but as you say, could be tyre problem still.

[Staggard]

I would guess if it was a tyre you only get problem when it was in contact with the road. My experience was exactly the same as yours, with the car up on stands under the trailing arms when you ran it up you could see the outside of tyre riding up and down then I made up a static marker ( don't know how else to explain it) and held it against the rim then you see it was not the tyre but the wheel itself riding up and down. It doesn't have to be much but it seems that the further you get from the centre of the wheel the worse it gets.

[Arbman Al]

To be Honest Andrew sleeving the nuts was a stop gap. I had to go through 8 wheels to find 4 that were cast correctly. Even when the wheels were correctly centred on the hubs the rims still had a run out. The 4 wheels on the car are the best I could find still not perfect though. But then again I don't want them to be, Sonia says there seems to be a bit of a vibration sometimes on the car, Yes Graham says its the wheels, Sonia says isn't that dangerous, a bit Graham says, Sonia says well should we not be changing them then, Graham says The money is the problem you see if I get 15" wheels I need tyres to go with them. Sonia says well get 14" then, Graham says Its virtually impossible to get tyres with the correct speed rating in 14's Sonia says, well I guess we Ault to get some then Graham says, but we cant afford wheels/tyres and your new sofa Sonia says well if its dangerous the wheels must come first. Graham says, well if you insist darling

Just tell Sonia the extra inch will make all the difference.

[jleyton]

Hi Andrew,

I had a rather similar problem. New wheels, when Rimmers had one of their offers on, cured tbe problem after lots and lots of investigation - take a look at my thread 'Are my nuts big enough ?' started on 21 May 2013.

Cheers

Julian

[Andrew S]

Thanks Julian. I read that a while ago and I have quite a bit if slop between the nuts and the alloy. In fact, I think I posted a footage Graham is spot on when he says that although you can do the nuts up tight but it won't hold the wheel for long where you want it.
I wish I had kept my old my original alloy nuts that had the locating taper on them, ��

[milothedog]

Thanks Julian. I read that a while ago and I have quite a bit if slop between the nuts and the alloy. In fact, I think I posted a footage Graham is spot on when he says that although you can do the nuts up tight but it won't hold the wheel for long where you want it.
I wish I had kept my old my original alloy nuts that had the locating taper on them, ��

Buy an old Steel rim and nuts with a legal tyre on it and try it on each corner and see what happens

[Andrew S]

Good suggestion Ian ��

[PJM Stag]

I had a similar problem with a tread that was disintegrating, showed up under the strobe light used when balancing wheels on the car.

[Staggard]

Thanks Julian. I read that a while ago and I have quite a bit of slop between the nuts and the alloy. In fact, I think I posted a footage Graham is spot on when he says that although you can do the nuts up tight but it won't hold the wheel for long where you want it.
I wish I had kept my old my original alloy nuts that had the locating taper on them, ��

Probably a bit of an age thing Andrew

[Philip Wardle]

Years ago I had an an issue with wheel vibration on a 2500S (same alloys as Stag). Apologies if you already know this, but after a visit to the local ATS tyre depot I learned that one thing that can help was to have the wheels balanced on the car, and to always replace in the same position on the hub after taking them off for any reason.

[Andrew S]

Hi Phil, thanks

Yes, I had my previous tyres balanced and made no difference and then decided to fit news tyres which have done very little mieage since May and I have the same problem.

Not sure if this would fit in to an SOCTFL project but the wheel nuts, alloy or stainless that are being sold, are not correct as they do not have the chamfered ends to them to locate the alloy wheel. This causes offset and run out. This is what the stainless steel nuts look like compared to the original alloy nuts so you can see the difference and why owners have problems. Also, the clip shows how much sideways movement there is in an alloy wheel hole so you can see how much play there could be. Would be good if the manufactured nuts were corrected and could sell well I'm sure.

IMG_5625.jpgIMG_5626.jpg

https://youtu.be/D-xdLh_aySU

Cheers
Andrew

[Bob Heritage]

On a Wolfrace slot wheel, there is a washer that fits onto the shoulder of the square face of the nut ,it is shamphered on one side and so fits perfectly, this could be the answer.


Bob

[Andrew S]

Hi Bob, sounds interesting. Would b e good to know the size needed for the alloy replacement and a source

[richardthestag]

ummm might be going mad here but I fixed this problem by properly locating the rear wheel cylinder and using the correct c clip to hold it tight to the back plate.

I found this out by messing about disconnecting half shafts and running it on the jack that helped me narrow down the problem to n/s/r, then wheel off still happened but not as noticeable but when I went undernear so see if I could hear anything odd coming from the bearing or outer UJ I could see the brake pipe wiggling back and forth ever so slightly.

Wheel cylinder was found to have a tinsey bit of play which was allowing the shoes to catch on the drum as it rotated and then release and repeat.