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    #16
    Originally posted by Moraystag View Post
    No worries Julian, am thinking of putting car into garage as I do not have time on my side. Could someone tell me if standard plumbers 8 mm copper pipe would be ok or does it have to be something else, ??
    Mike
    TBH Mike, if you're putting it into the garage, I'd let them source the pipe. You know what they could be like ' that pipe you supplied was useless/the wrong size' or 'we haven't got the correct fittings for that pipe' etc etc

    Cheers

    Julian

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      #18
      Originally posted by Moraystag View Post
      Gent,s I am about to fit a new copper fuel pipe, but looking at the amount of bends that is in the old one this may be problematic. What would be the best way to bend the copper fuel pipe into the correct shape without creasing it ???

      Regards Moraystag
      I bent my own copper brake pipes some years ago now. Once you have the correct pipe bending tool it's not a problem to bend the pipe. The problem is the pipes profile. Once you have done the first bend then the second, and subsequent bends, will have to be angled depending on the first bend. I think this is what Julian was referring to in his second paragraph. I am not an engineer so perhaps those with knowledge can explain how to get all the bends in the pipe at the correct angle. Manufacturers may have done this with a type of jig. I presume this will also apply to the fuel pipe.

      Rod

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        #19
        Hi. just a quick question regarding fuel pipe replacement , I need to replace my fuel line,
        I intend to replace it with copper , Do I used rubber up to the pump banjos and remove the plastic pipe .
        I m not sure if the plastic will have gone brittle or not,
        sorry if this has been covered and I missed it.

        dezzer
        Last edited by dezzer; 8 March 2016, 13:48.

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          #20
          I've used copper on mine and I use a 'yorkshire' solder joint, halved, soldered onto the end of the pipe with the leading edge rounded off. Flexible pipe slides right over and is good and secure.
          John
          Your wife is right, size matters. 3.9RV8

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            #21
            Hi john
            Thanks for the reply, Im not sure what you mean by soldering to the end of the pipe ? do you mean the banjo ?or the copper pipe ?

            dezzer

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              #22
              Moraystag, I fitted copper fuel pipe from fuel pump to filter recently. Bending by hand was tricky but looks good once done. Sore hands the day after though.

              Dezzer, I used a short section of rubber coupling tube with spring clips where the copper met the pump banjo and fuel filter.

              Simon

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                #23
                Originally posted by dezzer View Post
                Hi john
                Thanks for the reply, Im not sure what you mean by soldering to the end of the pipe ? do you mean the banjo ?or the copper pipe ?

                dezzer
                half one of these and you get one solder end for each end of your copper pipe, round off the end of the pipe / joint to remove burrs. Easier than trying to get a reasonable flare on the pipe end. Remenber to use solder flux

                copper joint.jpg

                John
                Your wife is right, size matters. 3.9RV8

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                  #24
                  Thanks for the advice john and simon much appreciated
                  Dezzer

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                    #25
                    Thanks for your replys gents

                    Well guys I ran out of time and had to head back to work. Tried 3 garages to fit copper pipe for me and all I got was humms and heys and all the usual malarkey.I have had this so many times before, if it does not come out of a box and fit straight onto a mass produced car forget it. Will be home again in May so as a stop gap or quick fix I bought 5 meters of S/S braided with 6mm inside diam. I am planning on removing the temporary join and taking tthe braided section straight from the fuel filter under the bonnet to the section of old hard pipe starting above the drive shaft coupling. The rest of the hard pipe forward I will remove until I have the time to bend and fit new complete hard piping from front to rear. The temporary join I put in was accepted during the MOT which the car flew through 3 days before I left. After engine re-build the emissions were all acceptable and she passed with flying colours, first time I have not had to screw back the carbs to run them lean to pass. Happy days and can,t wait to get her out in May

                    Rgds~: moraystg
                    Last edited by Moraystag; 22 March 2016, 10:35.

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