Store or drive

[mole42]

I might as well have an old nissan micra (ok thats pushing it)

You amost certainly would be pushing it.

[Stimpy]

You amost certainly would be pushing it.

I passed my test in a Micra!



Coming back to my off topic issues ...



The ticking noise is normal when unplugging HT lead 7.
At the point when the rotor arm supplies no. 7 there is a screw nearby under the cap. Unplugging the HT lead makes it search for the next best place to find earth. A nice shiny screw is a perfect candidate - it just makes sense. With the HT lead connected the earth route is far easier by spark plug.

I detached the carbs and can rev the car with either - this rules out carb issues.

I happen to have a spare coil - which I attached. No good - the issue remains.

All HT leads throw a spark at the end.


Something slightly weird.....

With some spark plugs - if I detach the HT lead the revs dont go down whereas other spark plugs - when detached - cause the revs to drop and the engine to run even more erratically.


This is a whole pain in the wotsit - especially when you re-read my very first comment on this thread.


I'm going to a dark room now to cry.......

[StagJonno]

If it were me, I'd now try replacing the dizzy cap and rotor arm - go to LD Part for a better chance of getting quality gear Cost is low. Just because you can see sparks, doesn't mean they're there all the time they should be - read Peter's blog whilst you're on the LD site. Are your HT leads relatively new? - can't remember if you've advised on these - if not, then change them as well. Otherwise, if you've checked the connections in the plug/ socket between the Lumenition power module and dizzy, I'd be next suspecting the Lumenition itself (ouch!). I've got a used spare which I'm told was working when removed - just need to tidy up the wiring and fit one of these plugs/ sockets http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401148802067 as recommended by others on here (currently awaiting delivery) and I'd be happy to let you borrow.

Jonno

[Stimpy]

Thanks for the suggestions.
I've been outside with the neighbour who's a retired electrician! Unfortunately not an auto one.

Regarding HT leads and the question you've posed.... I bought expensive HT leads some time ago - they are the fattest leads you'd ever see! (and bright blue).

One of the things I haven't done is look at the spark plugs. You'd expect that to be the first test but I lost my spark plug socket. I bought another from halfords but it became too late to continue (I hate the ensuing dark days).
On Friday - (today) - I'll have a look at each one.
Also - I've had a colortune for years - unused.
I could test out each chamber for a blue spark if all the spark plugs look ok.

Then - as you say - it's time to replace things. I will get a rotor arm/cap next.

Following that - the next suspect will be the electronic ignition (I've always had that niggling at the back of my mind)
Unfortunately the lumenition is very professionally installed.

I say 'unfortunately' as its installed extremely well in regards to routing the wired etc. Th only wire you can see is the earth lead. The rest disappear behind the unit.
This is where I have one of my fears.
Because I have been pretty 'rough' installing the stereo unit as neatly as possible I dont know if I've damaged a cable or something. The lower glove compartment has been in and out and in and out and - of course - this sits on the metal tabs and backs up into the junction box/area.
I would have thought it would be a case of fully works / fully doesn't work rather than some halfway symptom.

And - of course - the other annoyance is that it has worked between failures (if that makes sense) - but right now it's permanent.

You say 'ouch' to the luminition - I suspect you're hinting that it's expensive!!

If it comes to swapping modules and stuff then it goes beyond my capabilities (especially as it so well fitted) but that's a few tests away yet.

Thanks for the offer of a loan unit - I may well take that up as I'm a bit on the jobless side right now :-(

So.... onwards to when the sun decides to come back out!

Thanks

[Stimpy]

Incidentally - if you put a voltmeter on the LT spades while the engine runs you get 6v from one spade and the other spade shows a whole array of numbers - hopefully thats correct....

[DJT]

I feel sympathy for you, as I have been going through similar problems myself lately.

Back in the Summer the car let me down and I had to be recovered home. It started misfiring after a fast run, then conked out. The recovery guy established that there was a spark, but we couldn't get it to run. The next day, it started OK but ran rough again soon after it got warm.
I bought, and fitted, a new dizzy cap, new Lucas Sports DLB110 coil, new DD rotor arm, new 'king' lead. No improvement. A fellow owner suggested I (temporarily) ran a wire direct from the +ve battery post to the +ve coil tab. This cured the problem, identifying that the ballast wire had failed. I subsequently bought a Mk1 ballast resistor to fit, but whilst doing so I found the ballast wire was broken internally right at the end where it connects to the coil. Remaking this connection by cutting off a few mm cured the problem. I do now have the Mk1 resistor fitted, ready to swap over if the problem returns.
However, that is not the end of the story. I have had a few occasions when the engine starts to run rough, as if a couple of cylinders aren't joining the party. I've been right through the fuel system (carbs, filter, pump, etc.) without finding a fault. In desperation, I have refitted my original coil (Lucas Sports 'gold' DLB110) and so far the problem has gone away.....

Meanwhile, I have traced back all the wires for my Lumenition, so that I can replace it with something else should the need arise.

[KOY 23]

Dave.
Unfortunately Lucas is now just a brand name, not any guarantee of quality, some cynics may say it never was. However it has lasted 40 years, which I don't think the cheap rubbish we are being palmed off with now will.

[DJT]

Dave.
Unfortunately Lucas is now just a brand name, not any guarantee of quality, some cynics may say it never was. However it has lasted 40 years, which I don't think the cheap rubbish we are being palmed off with now will.

I know what you mean John. Sadly I bought it from the most respected supplier of Stag bits I know.......

[Stagsongas]

I feel sympathy for you, as I have been going through similar problems myself lately.

Back in the Summer the car let me down and I had to be recovered home. It started misfiring after a fast run, then conked out. The recovery guy established that there was a spark, but we couldn't get it to run. The next day, it started OK but ran rough again soon after it got warm.
I bought, and fitted, a new dizzy cap, new Lucas Sports DLB110 coil, new DD rotor arm, new 'king' lead. No improvement. A fellow owner suggested I (temporarily) ran a wire direct from the +ve battery post to the +ve coil tab. This cured the problem, identifying that the ballast wire had failed. I subsequently bought a Mk1 ballast resistor to fit, but whilst doing so I found the ballast wire was broken internally right at the end where it connects to the coil. Remaking this connection by cutting off a few mm cured the problem. I do now have the Mk1 resistor fitted, ready to swap over if the problem returns.
However, that is not the end of the story. I have had a few occasions when the engine starts to run rough, as if a couple of cylinders aren't joining the party. I've been right through the fuel system (carbs, filter, pump, etc.) without finding a fault. In desperation, I have refitted my original coil (Lucas Sports 'gold' DLB110) and so far the problem has gone away.....

Meanwhile, I have traced back all the wires for my Lumenition, so that I can replace it with something else should the need arise.

Dave,

I suffered similar problems for ages and finally tracked it down to a faulty Lumenition pickup. The old Coil worked better with it than the new one for some reason, but it began to develop a pattern so I decided to focus on that.

Using a spare HT lead and a bit of slotted metal I rigged up Cyl. 9 on an OS turret bolt. When the engine died just coming to full temp. I unplugged an HT lead for any cylinder and put in Cyl 9's HT lead. Cranking with the bonnet open and a bit of black tape behind the plug gap allowed me to see if there was a spark or not on even the sunniest day.

Sure enough, there wasn't, but when things cooled down, there was. Waiting for such an incident and then removing the distributor cap to blow air over the pickup gave an improvement in recovery time from around 20 mins down to 2 or 3 mins. A replacement pickup finally solved the problem.

Good Luck

Steve

[Essex Stag]

I use mine all year round only on dry salt free roads . Leave it unused and you will have a springtime of things electrical that will have corroded and not working . Why pay insurance and some times road tax to leave it in a cocoon . I have two classics and run them all year it keeps them lubricated tyres not damaged by standing still and the electrics operational and the cars damp free . I cannot use cocoons as I do not have power or the funds as I am always repairing the damn things that go wrong. They have a fantastic heater so winter use is not a problem
Derek

[Stimpy]

I feel sympathy for you, as I have been going through similar problems myself lately.

Back in the Summer the car let me down and I had to be recovered home. It started misfiring after a fast run, then conked out. The recovery guy established that there was a spark, but we couldn't get it to run. The next day, it started OK but ran rough again soon after it got warm.
I bought, and fitted, a new dizzy cap, new Lucas Sports DLB110 coil, new DD rotor arm, new 'king' lead. No improvement. A fellow owner suggested I (temporarily) ran a wire direct from the +ve battery post to the +ve coil tab. This cured the problem, identifying that the ballast wire had failed. I subsequently bought a Mk1 ballast resistor to fit, but whilst doing so I found the ballast wire was broken internally right at the end where it connects to the coil. Remaking this connection by cutting off a few mm cured the problem. I do now have the Mk1 resistor fitted, ready to swap over if the problem returns.
However, that is not the end of the story. I have had a few occasions when the engine starts to run rough, as if a couple of cylinders aren't joining the party. I've been right through the fuel system (carbs, filter, pump, etc.) without finding a fault. In desperation, I have refitted my original coil (Lucas Sports 'gold' DLB110) and so far the problem has gone away.....

Meanwhile, I have traced back all the wires for my Lumenition, so that I can replace it with something else should the need arise.

At least I'm not the only one who has been pestered by something that seems to have nothing wrong with it (petrol+ spark= OK ; so why the issue)

Funnily enough - I was thinking of supplying the coil straight from the battery but chickened out.

I'm going to check the spark plugs and then have a bash at the 'direct to battery' idea

Cheers gain for all the help

[Stimpy]

Oh - and I went to a local 'old style' car service place and he obviously didn't want to touch the stag as he recommended a rolling road!
He feels that the symptoms aren't right for a failed luminition.

I have booked my riley in though. Guess what for?
To have electronic ignition fitted!
There seems to be a common theme to my life right now.

[mole42]

One thing about Lumenition is that the product has been around for a very long time and has always been reliable. The only thing I've heard about problems with is the 3-pole connector, apart from a very few outright failures. Not bad for a 40+ year-old product!

[DJT]

A replacement pickup finally solved the problem.

I haven't ruled out a problem with the Lumenition, Steve, which is why I have reminded myself where all the wires are. But, so far, the recent problems seem to point to the new coil as it is running fine with my old one back in place.

[Stimpy]

Well.

My wife might have actually fixed it!

Ok - stand back and prepare to be amazed.......!


So,

First - the missus & me took each spark plug out and cleaned the end with emery cloth.

They were all black - but considering the car has spent the last 3 days being started and stopped numerous times and lots of choke action I put the blackness down to that rather than a rich mixture.

So....

Wifey said 'is it the air filter ? Why not take the air filter off?'

Of course I scoffed at such a silly idea - the filter is wide, long and made by K&N. Those filters are quality.

For a laugh I pulled the filter out of the box and put the filter box together again - minus the air filter.

I went for a drive.

While the engine was cold it was still hesitant - it really wasn't interested in being driven - but that's my car's character - it's really no good until the oil is hot.

So I drove up the hill to Beaconsfield and f--- me the car behaved!

So I extended the journey -minus air filter - for a 8 mile drive. Before I took it to my house I went up my 'notorious hill' which the stag has always had issues with and although I had to give it some - it got up the hill ok.

So - what has happened?

1) The intermittent fault nature is really cruel and has gone back to good mode in coincidence with filter removal, i.e. the problem has been masked rather than fixed
or
2) MY WIFE HAS FIXED MY CAR!!

There's one thing that baffles me.....

If its the filter then why has the car worked ok between failure- symptoms? Surely it should be all or nothing?

But as it stands - my stag is making me smile again!

I REALLY don't want to put the filter back in because if it works normal with it back in then my mind will literally explode and I'd have to be sectioned under HM govt 'Psychotic episodal male car fix with moving symptom act 1973, clause 5 amendment for Stag vehicles 1996'. No - I can't put the filter back. Im too scared!!!

Ok - it's a bit too late - my mind has just blown - can ANYONE on this thread have any instinct to suspect the bloody air filter was to blame all along?

So - air filter background....

I swapped paper for K&N shortly after getting the car so we're talking 7 years. I haven't touched it since.

So - looking at the price of a replacement and they are surprisingly expensive.

I'm under the impression that you can wash these things - is that the case? And do you have to soak it in oil or something - before putting back in ?

I'm currently driving 'filterless' however we are at the time of year where air borne dust is at it's minimum so I think I can get away with it until I decide what to do about the filter.

So - in short - can someone please explain how to 'renew' a K&N filter?
And also can you believe that it was all down to the bloody filter?

A huge amount of thanks to everyone so far - I've got to remedy mode and just need assistance in 'best practice' regarding K&Ns

Meanwhile I'll look around for pieces of brain to re-insert into my head....