New Minilites - A better photograph

[mike@thenook]

Thx mike for the price info , how much metal did you have to remove from the arch lips or lip ? Did u use an angle grinder to do it ? Regards Graham

Hi Graham,

A very small amount, probably no more than 2mm and not all around - it was mainly where the inner arch was overlapping the outer by a small amount, probably just badly put together.
Used an angle grinder yes..

[mike@thenook]

That is why "in my opinion" you are better off with a higher ET then you can position the wheel with spacers.

I understand what you mean Graham but if the Stag is designed to have a wider track at the rear then why upset it's inherent design?

I'm not a great lover of spacers either, I believe they can introduce an unwanted extra element to come loose - jmo of course..

[Staggard]

I understand what you mean Graham but if the Stag is designed to have a wider track at the rear then why upset it's inherent design?

I'm not a great lover of spacers either, I believe they can introduce an unwanted extra element to come loose - jmo of course..

Yes you are right the track width is 9mm wider at the back, I've reduced that by 6mm at the back and increased the front by 14mm which in the grand scheme of things I would not think that to be a lot. A ET of 6 increases the track by 58mm. Spacers are sandwiched between the hub flange and the wheel hub so the only way they can come loose is if the wheel nuts come undone. I personally would not use spacers thicker than 10mm or adaptors that have the studs that hold the wheel mounted in aluminium. For me the advantage is that if I chose to return to the rear wheelbase to being 9mm wider I can just fit 10mm spacers to the rear ( the same as the front) which would only increase the track width 14mm over the original keeping the tyres well within the arches. I spent a lot of time studying this before I bought the wheels which was on a sale or return basis, then fitted an old tyre to one of them and had a few 5mm spacers to hand when I tried the wheel front and rear to make sure that I had got it right before I parted with the dosh. Anyway Mike as been said many times each to his own, what would worry me is something heavy in the boot or a couple of people in the back or anything with a tow hitch weight or speed bumps that the tyres would come in contact with the roll edge on the arches. As you have said with them coming out that far 205x50x16's may have given you a bit more clearance. As always just my opinion.

[mike@thenook]

One thing I can say Graham is that with this width of wheel/tyre it would not lend itself to being lowered as in fact I did have my car for a while on the 195's but got fed up with scraping the exhaust on speed bumps.

I much prefer the look of the car now at its standard height but looking more "purposeful".

Another thing that hasn't helped my situation is that at the only time I've given my car to some mechanics for what was meant to be just a service, they recommended among other things I replace my perfectly good Spax dampers with some KYB gasadjust units - I should have said no thanks!

The problem is that the KYB units cannot be adjusted and are in my opinion soft which can mean the car will bottom out more easily than when I had Spax.

Ill be looking to flog the KYB's (done about 1,000 miles) and get some more Spax if anyone is interested in them..

Its good to know though we have both found a way to get new wheels using different methods but both with really great results!

Cheers!

[edd]

Many thanks for all input on this post from everyone . Its really helpful having the experience of all members and the pros and cons of changing wheels.
I myself am still eyeing up 15" minilites as mine is lowered and I want to interchange between standard and custom wheels as I like both. I do prefer the superlite look with a slightly sharper spoke.

[mike@thenook]

Have fun researching Edd and look forward to seeing the photos when you have them.

[edd]

Have fun researching Edd and look forward to seeing the photos when you have them.

I had a interesting chat to the manufacturer on the minators today. Well they used to be made here but he admitted 3 out of 4 would have been sent back they were that bad
They are now all made in china where it takes a whopping 10 seconds to cast a wheel where the uk time was 18 minutes
We also all pay a import tariff all thanks to the Italians who didn't like the thought of their wheels looking to expensive.

So apart from the doom and gloom we might get cheaper wheels post brexit

[mike@thenook]

I thought at first you where taking about the Miniltes, then I read properly again!

Got to say my Minators are still perfect after 10 years so well done China if mine were made there.

[edd]

So far I have found minilites originals with polished rim 15 X 6 et20 on this I plan 195 65 15
Not cheap at £128 plus the dreaded each. No coating on the alloy too unlike the imports no doubt.
I like the 6 j option. Any thoughts ?

[mike@thenook]

Sounds like a plan;

Minilite are always a bit more expensive but they are lighter and a slighter better design, mine are coated which is a blessing, bare alloy is a nightmare to keep shiny and corrosion free.

The combination sounds fine to me but try willtheyfit.com and it will show you exactly where your wheels and tyres will sit relative to your current wheels if you know the current ET.

6J is sensible, no mods needed.

Cheers

[new to this]

So far I have found minilites originals with polished rim 15 X 6 et20 on this I plan 195 65 15
Not cheap at £128 plus the dreaded each. No coating on the alloy too unlike the imports no doubt.
I like the 6 j option. Any thoughts ?

Edd

for the same money, you could get revolution wheels ebay 291389775024

[mike@thenook]

Love those, I had a set on my GT6 many years back.
theyd fit too as the offset will give 7mm more at the strut and poke out 7mm more at the arch if I use my Minators as a comparison.