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    #16
    Originally posted by garyf View Post
    These are great but I have a mk1 dash
    Are the mk1 instruments inherently poor when it comes to night illumination ?
    The main difference between Mk1 and Mk2 is the fact the later ones have green filters. If you want to keep the white illumination, use the white versions of the LEDs I've linked to in post 4 above.
    Dave
    1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

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      #17
      Is it really necessary to modify the warning light cluster? Although my clocks are dim, the warning segments are really bright with (new) standard bulbs.
      The answer isn't 42, it's 1/137

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        #18
        Originally posted by dasadrew View Post
        Is it really necessary to modify the warning light cluster? Although my clocks are dim, the warning segments are really bright with (new) standard bulbs.
        I haven't seen the need to, Drew. The main problem with the cluster is that correct bulbs don't seem to be available any more, either LED or incandescent, due to 'standardisation'.
        Dave
        1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

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          #19
          Originally posted by garyf View Post
          These are great but I have a mk1 dash
          Are the mk1 instruments inherently poor when it comes to night illumination ?
          Dont know but the way I did these moves the illumination from a single point at the very back of the gauge to a complete ring of light further forward.

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            #20
            Originally posted by DJT View Post
            I haven't seen the need to, Drew. The main problem with the cluster is that correct bulbs don't seem to be available any more, either LED or incandescent, due to 'standardisation'.
            I picked up my bulbs not so long ago; "Original" Lucas boxes (i.e. made in India from Lucas tooling which is completely washed out and after having bought the brand name). Due probably to tolerance build-up on worn-out tooling, it was necessary to very slightly relieve the brass bulb holder rings on the cluster by trimming slightly with a scalpel but then it was plain sailing.

            Drew

            Last edited by dasadrew; 27 July 2017, 09:15.
            The answer isn't 42, it's 1/137

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              #21
              I did the same as stagdad with the same result. Worth the time and effort.

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                #22
                Originally posted by Stagdad View Post
                A bit of work but good results can be had from installing red,green,blue LED strips in the cans of the gauges and using a cheap controller to determine the colour ( about 20 to chose from)depending on your mood and has a dimming option

                [ATTACH=CONFIG]41433[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]41434[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]41435[/ATTACH]
                These look Great but please exactly what did you buy and who from? Also please some more detail on installation - how did you open the cans? Wiring? If control via remote controller how did you get on with MOT?

                Thanks

                H
                Last edited by HersnotHis; 27 July 2017, 20:57.

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                  #23
                  image.jpg

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                    #24
                    Hi Steve

                    Followed your advice and fitted the LED's from Classic Car LEDs. Simple and straight forward job and a big improvement. However, I have found two issues.

                    1) My vault meter showed no charging with the LED installed but I read somewhere that the Led did not draw enough current to 'kick start the alternator. Reinstalled the filament bulb and that cured the problem.
                    2) With oil light LED installed the brake system warning light does not glow dimly when the ignition is turned on. IS this becauese of low current draw also do you know?

                    Have you experienced these issues with you installation?

                    I have a 1974 mark 2 Stag.

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