Diff again

[tonypy1]

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Hi Kevin,

You should be able to get a new rubber boot from your local Nissan dealer.

To replace it you'll need to remove the upper circlip so that you can withdraw the shaft, carefully remove the bearings and spacers, watch out for the dropping out when you're removing it. Use of a couple of fine screwdrivers as well as the circlip pliers helps with removal of the top circlip.

You'll then need to remove the bottom circlip to be able to remove it. Be really careful when you're sliding it off, there's some sharp edges on the bearing channels and I've cut myself a few times.

When reassembling you'll need three bearings and separators in each channel with a ball bearing at the bottom. The top separator will need a tap down with a soft drift or a piece of dowel to give clearance for the upper circlip to fit in its housing.

Cheers

Tony

[Kevin Garrod]

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Thanks Tony!

I've got it apart Ok, the circlip was a real pig! I'll have to look again for the bottom circlip..I need to remove that to get the new gaiter on?

[tonypy1]

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Afraid so, the retaining washer that the circlip is holding on is too large to get the boot past. The bottom one is much easier to deal with though than the one at the top.

[Kevin Garrod]

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My local Nissan dealer no longer sells old Datsun stuff any more, but I managed to get one at a motor factors instead and it's made of neoprene and quite stretchy so should go on OK, fingers crossed.

[Guest]

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This topic is of interest to me as I have another diff and Iam hoping to sort it myself.

If I cut/grind off the old bearings ( Not easyI know ) do the new bearing just "push" on.

This would save having to use a puller to remove or is a press required to fit new bearings.

Many thanks, Don Kennedy.

[adieturner]

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You'll need a press Don. The old ones will likely be seriously tight.....I twisted my press frame getting mine off but you could cut through the inner race with a dremel or similar to ease this. New ones still need a press and a sleeve to make sure you only press on the inner race.

Adie

[Kevin Garrod]

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I got everything back together a while ago and finally a dry day co-inciding with my spare time! I've been for a drive and everything is as it should be...the loudest thing as my exhaust again

( I put the bearing back in myself, I adjusted a vice so that the jaws would support the inner race but not grip the shaft, then just tapped the end of the shaft with a hammer and punch til it went home, no need for a press)

[GTJones]

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While on the subject of Diff's what is the best way to change the Side Oil Seals, i have looked at the ROM and it says to remove the entire shaft (With Bearing) can you just remove the Drive coupling and the Oil Seal cover plate?

Remove the Seal - fit a new one and refit the cover and coupling? or am i just being over optimistic

Gary

[Kevin Garrod]

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Getting the shaft out is not too difficult, but both the flange and bearing are very tight fits. The seal goes in between, probably best to use a press to get the bits apart.

[flying farmer]

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I have just fitted a replacement diff that needed new seals. Yes you do need to remove the whole shaft but its only four bolts. What I did is this (Its never failed yet) Remove end nut, clamp shaft in a vice with cloth wrapped around the splines to protect them. The shaft needs to be horizontal and the end not pointing at anything breakable:shock:

Put a three legged puller on the flange, trying to avoid the holes as it lessens the risk of distortion. Tighten the puller as much as you dare without distorting the flange. Place a hammer head or any other large heavy piece of metal between the legs of the puller, just behind the flange. Take another hammer and strike the opposite side of the shaft so the flange is "pinched" between the two hammers. This will normally shock the flange free with a lot less pressure than a straight pull. Be aware that the puller and flange will usually fly several feet hence the need for the shaft to be horizontal in the vice and not pointing at anything breakableIt took me about an hour and a half to change the side seals and reassemble

Neil

[GTJones]

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flying farmer wrote:

I have just fitted a replacement diff that needed new seals. Yes you do need to remove the whole shaft but its only four bolts. What I did is this (Its never failed yet) Remove end nut, clamp shaft in a vice with cloth wrapped around the splines to protect them. The shaft needs to be horizontal and the end not pointing at anything breakable:shock:

Put a three legged puller on the flange, trying to avoid the holes as it lessens the risk of distortion. Tighten the puller as much as you dare without distorting the flange. Place a hammer head or any other large heavy piece of metal between the legs of the puller, just behind the flange. Take another hammer and strike the opposite side of the shaft so the flange is "pinched" between the two hammers. This will normally shock the flange free with a lot less pressure than a straight pull. Be aware that the puller and flange will usually fly several feet hence the need for the shaft to be horizontal in the vice and not pointing at anything breakableIt took me about an hour and a half to change the side seals and reassemble

Neil

Hi Neil

Think i will get the wife to do this simple job