Front Suspension Top Mounts - orientation

[Lingen]

Drew / Rod
Perhaps there is only one maker of these rubber bushes now, in which case we are probably stuck with them. And I expect there is only the one importer supplying The Trade. This makes life difficult for the retailers, but if they have been supplied with something that isn't fit for purpose they might like to return them in the hope that the importer might insist that the manufacturer improves their quality control. Or is that just wishful thinking? I'm sure SOC Spares will be trying to do something about it.
As for the water pump brass cages, I was looking in to the issue of water seal fit recently, and collected together a whole variety of seals and cages to try out. I was very surprised to find I had three different sized
(internally) cages, none of which had been modified. Presumably different pump manufacturers over the years all made them to suit their seals. This doesn't help when we come to rebuild whichever pump we happen to have. It does seem though that one of the seals currently available is constructed in such a way that it will fit all three cages satisfactorily.
I am still working on it.
Mike.

[flying farmer]

The old top mounts will probably last much longer.
The last new top mount I fitted lasted all of 2 years and four of five thousand miles
Neil

[Rod1883]

Me again, sorry.
In post 11 above I said the car sits a little high, but hopefully will settle. Well, today being the first day I could have another good look at the car, it does sit too high - circa 15 and 3/4" from centre of the wheel to the bottom of the wheel arch each side at the front, and 14 and 3/4" one side, closer to 15" the other at the rear. When I first got back last week with the car I thought it didn't look too bad, but parking it up today outside a pub on the level, it is clearly not right. I had all four springs replaced as I didn't want any issues with the front if the rears were still the old ones.
My understanding is that car should sit 14 and 1/2" all round. It was a little low at the front nearside before the new springs etc were fitted due I imagine to the tired/bowed spring that was rubbing on the inner wheel arch tower.

What are the chances of it all settling down, or should I be looking at some other action?
I think I might drop a note to SOC again just to keep them in the picture.
Advice/reassurance would be welcomed.
Rod

[Lingen]

Rod
I am surprised that they are incorrect, as SOC make a point of selling ones that give the correct ride height. Not all of them do. I recommend that you let Stuart know so he can put things right.
Mike.

[Rod1883]

Latest update and request for further thoughts/advice:

SOC have been great, and a new set of four road springs were sent to me, as soon as I got in touch. These were a pair of lowered fronts and a new pair of rears, which I understood to be standard but matched as a set.
This replacement set of four springs were fitted a few days ago and the front ride height, with the lowered spring, is now pretty close to what I think is correct at ~14.75" from centre of the hub cap to the bottom edge of the wheel arch.
At the rear, the measurement is now ~13.5" - so ~ 1" or so lower than the previous springs. I'm pretty sure both the replacement and previous pair of rear springs were standard - as SOC don't list a lowered rear, I will check again with them though.

I didn't do the fitting work myself and had asked the mechanic to replace all four springs as recommended by the SOC.

I had started to get the car out today have a good look around and decide whether it all looks OK, or whether I should swap the rears again but rain cut my activity short.
The car looks to sit fairly level - by eye, and by holding a spirit level along the pinstripe and on the top edge of the sill. If anything the car rake is a tiny amount lower at the front by the spirit level.
The rear wheel arch bodywork is physically lower than the front in relation to the wheels so I am beginning to wonder if the guidance of a standard 14.5" from centre wheel to arch all round that I got from the Monarch site is correct (although that is more or less how the car sat on the old original 1974 springs).

The other thing that looks a little different with these latest rear springs is the camber of the rear wheels - they appear to have a slightly more visible negative camber than before. Is it the case that lower springs give that effect, and if so why is this, and are there any mechanical/other risks associated with having this camber?

I'm wondering if it might be worth swapping the rear springs again to the first new pair that sat at ~14.75" (albeit when the front was at 15.75").
Replacing rear springs seems pretty straightforward, but any tips to make the job go smoothly would be welcome.

So in summary:
# The front sits pretty well now.
# The rear measures low, but looks reasonably ok.
# The rear wheels have a slight negative camber - is this because of a lower ride height/spring, and does it pose a risk to any mechanical component?
# If I decide to change the rear springs again are there any tips for the job, or pitfalls I should look out for?

Thanks Again!

Rod

[tvrgeek]

I went through hell doing mine. Just bolted it all in today. Bushings were too tight and I had to ream them. Very picky on positioning as so not to bind. I think I got it right but won't know for sure for a few miles.
Not impressed with the design. Newer cars have far better bearing designs.

[Rod1883]

I went through hell doing mine. Just bolted it all in today. Bushings were too tight and I had to ream them. Very picky on positioning as so not to bind. I think I got it right but won't know for sure for a few miles.
Not impressed with the design. Newer cars have far better bearing designs.

Yes, it seems that the current supply of top mounting bearings are of poor quality, thankfully my old originals were OK and so were re-used.

Can anyone help with my questions from my post of yesterday, above:
...

in summary:

# The front sits pretty well now.

# The rear measures low, but looks reasonably ok.

# The rear wheels have a slight negative camber - is this because of a lower ride height/spring (why would this be), and does it pose a risk to any mechanical component?

# If I decide to change the rear springs again are there any tips for the job, or pitfalls I should look out for?

Thanks Again!

Rod

[Lingen]

Rod.
The camber of the rear wheels naturally alters with the movement of the suspension. If your replacement springs make the ride height slightly lower, then the angle will be different-slightly wider at the bottom. This is perfectly normal and presents no risks. If you do decide to change them again, and you still have the original type trailing arm rubber bushes, I would recommend that you slacken off the four bolts holding them to the subframe, and once the car has settled into position, then re-tighten them. This will ensure that the rubber will not be in a "Twisted" state at all times.
This would not be necessary if you have polyurethane ones.
Mike.

[Rod1883]

Thanks Mike - your advice is always appreciated