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Identical to mine. Worked OK for me. What jack are you using?
Identical to mine. Worked OK for me. What jack are you using?
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A bottle jack to start with, if that doesn't work there is a nice 4 ton kit from Machine mart that I'm sure will come in useful for plaenty of other jobs.
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...dy-repair-kits
As long as the ram is short enough!
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The thought of a bit of kit that helps in the removal of cylinder heads, i broke 1 stud either side and yet the head refused to budge so i resorted to a lump hammer under the timing chain side and crow bars to lift thehead off to a extent i could saw the studoffto remove it completely manifolds included.
Adrian
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Mpower738 wrote:I used a modified (butchered) bottle jack; it ran out of push and nearly didnt make it. I would like to findsomething a littlestronger.A bottle jack to start with, if that doesn't work there is a nice 4 ton kit from Machine mart that I'm sure will come in useful for plaenty of other jobs.
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...dy-repair-kits
As long as the ram is short enough!Comment
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Here is what we use in the US ... zero damage and lifts the heads clean off.
Read the article on the TSN forum
http://www.triumphstag.net/start/pho...8677#msg-28677
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Hiya, the point of copper grease, is that when the grease eventually disappears, a copper film is left behind, to which rust will not stick, and often won't even form.
Martin.
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martin wrote:Or ... the copper conducts the bi-metallic difference in materials and increases corrosion?Hiya, the point of copper grease, is that when the grease eventually disappears, a copper film is left behind, to which rust will not stick, and often won't even form. Martin.
We typically use high concentration molybdenum based anti seize and stay away from the metal based slips.
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