Drive shafts

[Jerry]

I am thinking of fitting new constant velocity driveshafts to my stag, what are your opinions on these , are they worth the money and do they improve the handling etc, thanks Jerry

[Lingen]

Jerry.
They are good, but very expensive. Years ago I fitted the conventional ones with the smaller, greasable splines. I have found them to be entirely satisfactory, and with Superflex trailing arm bushes in place of the rubber ones there hasn't been a single "Twitch" since. .They cost a lot less as well.
Mike.

[trunt]

I’m very pleased with mine, yes very expensive, but you also get a new pair of uprated hubs bearings etc.

[mole42]

I have uprated half-shafts built for me by a local specialist (he also did the Batmobile transmission for the film vehicle!). They are much cheaper than the CV joint kits and have been very smooth in operation.\

One of the problems with after-market replacement or uprated parts is that there may not be an accepted quality control process for small-volume manufacture.

[Tdafforn]

Fitted them on my supercharged TR6 after I wore out a set of ujs on the 10 countries run. Quieter and the rear suspension feels much more supple. The new hubs are also good given these are safety critical.
tim

[stag8manod]

+1 f6 or the CV axles and uprated hubs I also fitted 3/8 UNC 5/16UNF studs in the trailing arms and polybushed. the rear suspension, all good.
Cheers Ian A

[022Dave]

I have the CDD CV jointed driveshafts and uprated hubs (front & rear); I'm very pleased with their quality and performance.

https://classicdrivingdevelopment.co.uk/category.asp?cID=14&carID=12&pID=83&page=STAG+CV+DRIVESHAFTS

Dave

[flying farmer]

Fitted them on my supercharged TR6 after I wore out a set of ujs on the 10 countries run. Quieter and the rear suspension feels much more supple. The new hubs are also good given these are safety critical.
tim

I enquired about these from CDD for my Stag engined TR. When I told him it had 250bhp and did track days and autosolos he said stick with the splined shafts as they were only designed for 200bhp. I did fit the uprated hubs though, my driveshafts were only a few years old and have the good GKN UJs fitted, not the 1000 mile cheese variety

Neil

[jbuckl]

Tbf the triumph splines are huge, but straight sided & prone to wear & sticking.
modern lube can help.
chris witor shafts are rolled Involute so provide a good alternative/ replacement to triumph worn splines.
Biggest advantage of ccd shafts & hubs isn’t really the cv joint, it’s the lower unsprung mass.
Lightness isn’t cheap though!

[Wheelz]

A friend of mine had problems with the new CV drive shafts, and is preparing a write up of his findings. Before he publishes it, he has asked that if anyone else had any problems, would they like to share any information that might help understand the extent of the problem, and resolve or avoid it in future.

Just for info, his problem related that shafts being too short, so that when the rear suspension is fully extended (eg jacked up fully at the rear) the rear wheel can lock up.

[Roy_S]

Having just got my Stag back on the road and working through the issues 1 by 1, I have felt the rear end twitch when driving (and I don't mean the temp gauge watching....)
For now I'll crawl under the car and get a little oil into the spline to help things, maybe a change later on.

[MandM]

Having just got my Stag back on the road and working through the issues 1 by 1, I have felt the rear end twitch when driving (and I don't mean the temp gauge watching....)
For now I'll crawl under the car and get a little oil into the spline to help things, maybe a change later on.

Clean them add a grease nipple, so you can add moly-slip grease easily without taking them apart, if you haven't done change the trailing arm bushes for poly, this is what I have done and haven't had the stag twitch since , now been done yrs

[sujitroy]

With regard to the Stag twitch I'm assuming the splines are locking up. If you have a shaft on a bench will there be tail tail signs that you can see or look for indicating you'll suffer from the twitch?
Sujit

[DJT]

Separate the two halves, then thoroughly clean male and female splines to remove all traces of old, solidified grease and crud. Reassemble with a good coating of CV joint grease. This, combined with quality poly bushes in the trailing arms should eliminate any 'twitch'.

[Roy_S]

Thanks for the feedback guys.
I'm limbering up to replace the two rear subframe bushes, and as I'm in the area was going to fit new rear springs. Then thought might as well do rear bushes and replace with poly ones.
Then the weather got really cold and I hibernated, but it was sunny today, so maybe, just maybe.....