Fuel pipes etc kit to ethanol standard

[richardthestag]

Chicken Licken is on the run about again

I do wonder if any fuel system failure is now blamed on covidz ooopsie sorry ethanol. and if so who is championing that cause;

the Govt who want you to buy a new EV from the other side of the planet complete with it's impressive cradle to grave carbon footprint (our cities are clean, screw the rest of the planet etc)
the fuel companies who want to make an even bigger profit by encouraging you to buy e5 super duper unleaded
or those chappies who sell the kits to neutralise / make safe the ethanol content of what you pump into your pride and joy.

I don't know, but I do know that our neighbours have used E10 for many years and things are not getting any worse as a result (neighbours = USA, France, Belgium etc etc etc)

As you may know I work mainly on Land Rover between 30-50 years old. I have seen some shocking fuel systems, ancient pipe and hoses, pumps etc that really should have been changed decades ago. My argument! Is it reasonable to blame E10 for the failure of a well past the old sell by date hoses? Is there any proof that a well serviced fuel system is NOT ethanol friendly?

I do have a short length of old fuel line that has been submerged in a jam jar of e10, it has been there over a year now and there is the square root of bugger all difference to the separate section of the same piece of fuel hose that I strapped to the outside of the jar. Not real science I know but I was expecting it to have dissolved from the reports in the tabloids etc. Most of you are old enough to recall the chicken licken scaremongering about the abolition of lead in 4star, oh my Lord! cars were predicted to seize up and block up the hard shoulders!!!

So anyway, back to common sense land, while you are E10 proofing* sorry maintaining your fuel system it is well worth coating the inside of the steel fuel tank with this of something like it. https://www.rust.co.uk/product/slosh...-new-formula-7

It doesn't do anything really other than prevent the condensation from eating away at the fuel tank walls above the e10 level. It will also plug up any micro holes in the tank wall. deal easy to apply when the tank is out of the car and not that messy really.

https://youtu.be/9XBRGIpzIbA is how I do it

I use this on brand new tanks also. cheap insurance for fuel tank longevity.

Lengths of cunifer 5/16 pipe (copper nickel iron) if you must, but is copper really an issue for fuel / brake lines running along the transmission tunnel? aside from cunifer is more resilient to fatigue fractures than pure copper?!? Should I be running around screeching "wont somebody please think of the children"

Just sayin

Richard

[dasadrew]

Must be about 10 years ago or so when I popped a few sections of rubber fuel hose of different types into a) a jar of regular super (E5) and b) E10 fuel. I'd more or less forgotten about this trial, but discovered the two jars during a recent house move. Absolutely no difference whatsoever could be determined in terms of the consistency of the rubber. One of the sample hose bits showed considerable swelling, but this swelling was no different between E5 and E10. Unfortunately, over the years I'd mislaid the "post it" notes which had the details of the hoses and where they came from - sorry.

[Paul Kelley]

Thanks Richard and Dasadrew for the balance and 'common sense'. I think my conclusion is that, first and foremost, it is common sense to recognise that we are endeavouring to keep 50 year old cars going when their natural 'sell by' date was about 40 years ago! Therefore anything perishable - which is most of the car - needs maintaining and replacing regardless of ethanol anyway. and fuel being hazardous it makes sense to treat the whole fuel system accordingly.

As to whether or not the threat from E10 is being exaggerated, as has been said various countries have been using E10 for years. I recall Trunt (USA) saying before that it's not an issue over there, but it might depend on where in the States you are (it's a big place - I've driven across it!). So dry warm states may be fine, but cold/wet states with high winter humidity, like here, it probably makes sense to watch out for water condensation in the tank (keep it filled up).

Anyway, winter job for me is to check and replace my fuel pipes as needed

[gbb483]

I've just acquired a fuel leak around the area of the bulkhead (judging by the position of the fuel lake on the garage floor). I've yet to get under the car to confirm my suspicions and am just researching possible reasons and what spares I might need. Is there a source for the lengths of rubber tube joining the nylon / metal pipes? (The clutch has also failed and I'm pretty sure that is the slave cylinder rubbers, so I'll have plenty to do once I get down there).

[KOY 23]

Very common problem, there’s a short length around 2” of rubber pipe down there, also another near the rear suspension. Get good quality R9 tube, there are many fakes on e bay.

[Dieter H. Marschall]

Andrew,
At the moment I am thinking of replacing the rubber fuel pipes in my Stag. Am I mistaken or do they all have 6 mm resp. 8 mm inner diametres? Which type/brand on the German market comes closest to SAEJ30 R9 W.P.20 ? To be on the safe side I would like to make my fuel system E5 ad E10 resistant.
Best wishes,
Dieter.

[dasadrew]

To tell you the truth Dieter, I had some old hoses lying around from my Escort restoration and inherited quite a few from my brother when he passed away. Others I've just bought off the roll by the meter at the local vehicle parts store. IIRC I just rummaged through their different hoses until I found one marked FPM and bought a few metres of 6mm and 8mm. I'm afraid I didn't write down where I used what, but the hoses didn't cost much, so i just cut a length off for the different applications as I proceeded with the resto.

The only hose problems which I have encountered is the rubber vacuum hoses for distributor, carburettor and air filter - they suffer from very rapid deterioration, maybe from heat, maybe from fuel vapour? Due to the size constraints, I've not been able to find a suitable longer lasting hose.

[Philip Wardle]

Andrew,
At the moment I am thinking of replacing the rubber fuel pipes in my Stag. Am I mistaken or do they all have 6 mm resp. 8 mm inner diametres? Which type/brand on the German market comes closest to SAEJ30 R9 W.P.20 ? To be on the safe side I would like to make my fuel system E5 ad E10 resistant.

Hi Dieter, I believe DIN 73379 published by Deutsches Institut Fur Normung E.V. is equivalent to SAE J30R9

[Dieter H. Marschall]

Thank you Andrew and Philip for your prompt answers! Dieter.

[dasadrew]

Hi Dieter, I believe DIN 73379 published by Deutsches Institut Fur Normung E.V. is equivalent to SAE J30R9

There are different versions of this DIN - maybe for different types of fuel.

I looked into the NBR vs. FPM at the time but can't remember all the details. Just found this which might help Dieter:

https://www.vw-t2-bulli.de/gasolineline-de.html