engine oil cooler pipes

[pcoleman]

just started underneath jobs this weekend and replaced clutch slave cylinder,overdrive solenoid and inhibitor switch with good results all round, next job is the engine oil cooler and noticed there aint a lot of room to get the pipes from the new oil filter housing up to the cooling rad which i assume mounts low down on front of the engine and behind the grille.anyone fitted one of these ? could do with knowing where it all goes.

pete.c :?

[mjheathcote]

imported post

Why are you fitting an oil cooler?

Unless you do a lot of high speed continental trips, or pulla caravan, I don't see the need.

I have an oil temperature gauge and the temp never goes high enough to warrant an oil cooler....especially with quality synthetic oil that does not break down until very hot.

IMHO

[MB]

imported post

It probably depends on what type of adaptor and exhaust manifolds you have. I.e. Sandwich plate between filter and block or oil transfer cover with pipe connections.

Standard or tubular exhaust manifolds and is your alternator mounted in original position or the on the other side.



I have a sandwich plate and old style tubular manifolds where both exhaust pipes come down the front with the alternator mounted on the other side. I have run the pipes up the back of the block by the clutch master cylinder then behind the lid of the washer bottle out the hole by the side of the battery into the inner wing (where I have the oil stat) then around behind the headlights to the oil rad. I have seen one with the pipes run behind the exhaust manifolds straight to the front past where the alternator should be and squeezed through beside the water radiator.


There is no correct position for the oil rad, I have mine mounted upright against the side of the battery box between rad and grill. That way I can undo the lower connector to drain the oil out of it when I do an oil change. Since an oil cooler is not standard there is no correct way of installing one

[pcoleman]

imported post

ok. thanks for the response I will look at this route as a start point.
cheers. pete.c

[turbineman]

imported post

Why are you fitting an oil cooler?

Unless you do a lot of high speed continental trips, or pulla caravan, I don't see the need.

I have an oil temperature gauge and the temp never goes high enough to warrant an oil cooler....especially with quality synthetic oil that does not break down until very hot.

IMHO




what type of synthetic oil are you using always of the impression should be 20w/50?

regards john

[mjheathcote]

imported post

turbineman wrote:

Why are you fitting an oil cooler?

Unless you do a lot of high speed continental trips, or pulla caravan, I don't see the need.

I have an oil temperature gauge and the temp never goes high enough to warrant an oil cooler....especially with quality synthetic oil that does not break down until very hot.

IMHO




what type of synthetic oil are you using always of the impression should be 20w/50?

regards john

Synthetic oil and grades is always a top topic:P

Presently using Mobil One motorsport which is 15w/50.

People get really wound up over using a grade of oil which is 0W/5W/10W etc saying it is really too thin, but what a lot of people don't grasp is that when the oil is coldthis lower grade applies so a 0W bottom grade oil may be thinner than a 20w bottom grade oil, but is still thicker when cold than when the oil is hot of course no matter what oil you use....so how can one say a 0W be too thin? its only thinner when stone cold (but still thickercompared towhen it gets hot) which allows the oil to circulate easier!

The important bit is the upper grade being 50, the grade of the oil when hot, not say a 30 which would be too thin for a stag in my opinion. If you notice a lot of modern engines can be say 5W/30, the oil being thinner when hot compared to a 5W/40 or 50. So when an engine is hot, the lower grade makes no difference what so ever, a synethic grade oil with an upper grade of 50 is the same viscosity as a mineral oil with the same upper grade of 50. The advantage of the synthetic is that it does not break down at higher oil temperatures, unlike a traditional mineral based oil.

Hope that makes sense!

[confrench]

imported post

pcoleman wrote:

just started underneath jobs this weekend and replaced clutch slave cylinder,overdrive solenoid and inhibitor switch with good results all round, next job is the engine oil cooler and noticed there aint a lot of room to get the pipes from the new oil filter housing up to the cooling rad which i assume mounts low down on front of the engine and behind the grille.anyone fitted one of these ? could do with knowing where it all goes.

pete.c :?

Did this job many years ago so I hope the grey cells can remember,here goes.Bring the pipes forward from the sandwich housing,over the steering rack.The thermostat sits just over the steering rack grease point.Take one pipe and clip it to the anti-roll bar to the N/Side.The other pipe goes forward on the O/side .Feed both under the radiator and drill holes either side to take the pipes through the front valance and up to the cooler which I mounted across the chassis members.Use rubber gromets to protect the pipes through the valance.This car is a man/od model,dont know about whether there is room for this on an auto.