Paint and rust removal process.

[DJT]

Hi Trunt, that does make sense but there are only 2 thin gaskets in the kit...

Then just fit one carb, run it on 4 cylinders and save fuel.....

TBH, I don't remember ever using any of the thin ones.

[trunt]

It may be that the carb kit only includes the carb side, the manifold side may be separate, it does look like that in the rimmer parts listings

[MandM]

Hi Paul keep going with the carb photos will help me and others as I'm going to have a go at mine this winter.

thanks

[paul jorgensen]

The Pedestal adaptor and carburettor parts as they came out of the Ultrasonic cleaner...
The choke and vent valve are now operating nicely.

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This was the temperature compensator before I cleaned it. Note the gap between the rubber plunger and the body, at room temperature this should be closed. Both compensators are stuck open with gunk.

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They are easy to strip, remove the locknut & washer then the screw.

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The rubber plungers were sticking in the bore of the compensator, when removed they were covered in what looked like black carbon. I cleaned the plungers and the bores; they now slide back and forth easily.

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Before rebuilding, check that the Bi-metal strip is not bent.

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[paul jorgensen]

The Bi-metal strip can only go in one way (note the corner cut by the fixing hole) The strip slides into the rubber and lowered down into the bore and over the stud.


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Secured with the screw, the nut adjusts the position of the rubber plunger.

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Fit the washer and locknut, then tighten the nut which will move the rubber plunger closer to the hole closing it off. I turned the nut whilst blowing into the hole. Just blow lightly until you feel it has closed.
If you blow hard, it will push the plunger.

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Both ready to be tested.

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[paul jorgensen]

Testing the opening of the plungers.
Below they are just starting to open at 33*c, they should open together, mine did not so I had to tighten the locknut on the one that was slower to open. I only turned it a fraction which I did a couple of times.
You don't need to wait for the water to cool down each time you retest, just fill the pan up with cold water, the plunger soon closes.


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At 60*c fully open.

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Hoping to have both carbs done tomorrow.

[MandM]

Thanks Paul looks like a great job will have to get myself one of those sonic cleaners

PS did you sort out the gaskets for the insulation pad? is it 1or 2?

[paul jorgensen]

They are good....
unfortunately i damaged the insulation pads when I removed the carbs from the pedestal, I didn’t realise they would not Come with the carb kit. So rather than damage the carb or pedestal I put a screwdriver through the centre of the pad to release the carbs.
I ordered new pads and gaskets from Good Parts inc in the US, they are currently being processed through NY international destination centre.
Carb rebuild today

[paul jorgensen]

On Saturday I started Work on rebuilding the first carb.


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The carb kit I bought came with new spindles and butterflies. Firstly, I removed the butterfly, note the position of the 2 dimples.


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Once the butterfly has been removed the spindle can be slid out.

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The new spindle on this carb has to be cut to size.

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[paul jorgensen]

This carb only has one spindle seal which I replaced, the old one is carefully hooked out with a screwdriver and the new one tapped in with a piece of wood and hammer. I applied rubber grease to the rubber seal before I fitted.

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The new spindle slides in through the new seal and into the sealed end, I put a small amount of grease into the sealed end. Be careful when installing the spindle, it can easily damage the small rubber seal. "How do I know"...... The kit comes with 4 seals, luckily, we only need 3. Apply rubber grease to the spindle as well, and turn the spindle as you slide it in.
I applied threadlock to the 2 small butterfly screws.

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Next in went the new needle valve and washer.


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I replaced and checked the height of the float, it was bang on not needing any adjustment.


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When the piston/needle, new diaphragm and cap is fitted ensure the piston moves up and down freely. I applied a small amount of oil to the moving parts.

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[paul jorgensen]

First carb finished.



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The 2nd carb

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Stripped and cleaned.


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Blurry pictures but carbs complete.

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[paul jorgensen]

I had a busy weekend but did manage to sneak into the garage for a couple of hours.


This is a water pump I purchased some time ago.

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The pump with the 3 different thickness gaskets. After installing dry using a feeler gauge, I only needed the one gasket. (The thicker one)

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[paul jorgensen]

In my quest to have the engine running before Christmas I am grabbing time when I to get out into the barn. It is very slowly getting nearer.
I managed to fit the inlet manifold


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Coil and fitted most of the cooling hoses/pipes etc. Next job will be fitting the carbs etc.

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[Luigi]

Hi Paul,

just going through all your post, and what a fantastic job you are doing to your stag, I have all this to do and would be very happy if it looks half as good as yours, one thing that interests me is on page 25 where you are preparing to fit the fuel tank, you have one large black pipe coming from the filter, that goes through the boot floor, I have the same, but what is the other black pipe going through the upstanding of the boot, coming from the inner back wing? I don’t have this one?? May have been taken off at some point, and never replaced?

Many thanks
luigi

[paul jorgensen]

Thank you Luigi, it has been a long road but I can now see the light...

The one that goes through the up stand is the one connected to the filter which is the breather pipe, the one that goes through the floor is the fuel spill pipe which is connected to fuel cap.
Are you enjoying your project?