Advice on Previous Welding Repairs

[StokeyStag]

OK, responding to your recent comments first:

Princejohny - thanks for bringing a train of thought to mind: I had thought that the original floor would have been spot welded and have wondered how any repair that was spot welded in the past was OK for an MOT one year but not the next after they tightened the rules ? In terms of structural integrity I'm happy that the car is OK and mechanically it's hasn't let me down and stops pretty well for a 40 year old.

Edd - I know what you mean, the thought of being on my hand and knees indoors is bad enough (make your own imagery here ), never mind in a cold garage. Personally, when I know something isn't right it'll nag me continually so I'm happy to put something off as long as I'm making plans to get it done whenever practical and convenient. Thanks for the offer to pop in and set your garage on fire I'll be passing your part of the world at the end of June as we're having a week away in St Ives (with the Stag all being well), but I don't think my personal domestic goddess would be amused if we stopped off for a welding tutorial !!

Stag-phil - as I've already said, I'm pretty sure that the car is structurally sound but I'll do the checks you suggested next time I'm with the car, so thanks for that. Re using a competent welder (no, I'm not offended, really ), although I'd really like to do the work myself, particularly as I would be able to guarantee a certain degree of quality, I haven't given up on the idea of getting someone else to do the work. I think it's mainly a question of trusting someone else's ability - I'd want to have a good look/poke/prod afterwards - and I'm not sure after all this that I would have confidence in someone I didn't know.


Right, I've been looking at MiG welders today and, if I do the work myself, my circumstances dictate that I need one that operates from a 3-pin 13amp supply so I'm limited to machines up to about 150amps which should allow me to weld metal up to 6mm thick, more than enough for the floor.

Clarke welders seem to be the most popular though there are SiP and Sealey units available (Sealey don't seem to like telling us whether or not they use a 13amp supply !), all coming in around the £220 - £270 range. I also found this, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wolf-Mig14...item3a7e294681

I know it's a chinese/Aldi job but it seems to fit the bill capability and (especially) price wise. The on-line reviews that I've managed to find have a small number of definite no-nos, but the majority rate the after sales service if anything goes wrong. It looks like it's a bit of a faff to set up first time but when it works it seems to really work. It also has a 3 year guarantee so it looks like a potential contender, just needs a better helmet and gas bottle. Any thoughts ?

I'm in no great rush to buy a welder in the next few days and am happy to wait a month or so to see it anything decent becomes available on t'internet or elsewhere.


Mark

[new to this]

mark

you really would want a full face auto dark helmet and full size gas bottle,there are more places that don't charge rental for the gas now,i have my gas from BOC but will be giving it back soon because the gas rental is £95 per year

dave

[Firept]

Mark.
There is a lot of advice on various MIG welding sites but from what I know the good ones are BOC autolynx old but still good usually very large, Clarke the "blue range" generally good DIY welders and have a very good wire feed, SIP's although seem good on the face of it the wire feeds seems to play up due to bad design and they still have not put the design right, of course if you've got lots of dosh then Kemppi.

I had a BOC Autolynx some years ago then I gave up playing with classic cars.....of course now I've gone back to it! I sold the BOC years ago but I loved that welder it was just so controllable. I now have one of the Blue range of Clarke's and its does the job, try and get the largest one that will run on a 13amp outlet you can. If necessary you can always have 16amp Commando type socket installed in the garage if you need the extra power but mainly the bigger welders seem to have better control over wire speed and out put, the smaller ones don't always have that ability.
Clarkes are also good for parts mine is from the 1980's and they still have parts for it.

Agree with Dave ref the mask get the big bottle of Argon/Co mix it does give a better weld on thin body metal, a flow meter that goes on the end of the torch is worth while as well it allows you to set the gas flow rate they are only about £10, look out for a flash hood as well if you have to do welding upside down its no fun getting weld spatter in you ear or down your neck, the one I hate is when it goes down your boot stood in the garage doing a war dance trying to get your boot off.
Do ask around though and search the net.

Paul.

[StokeyStag]

Dave & Paul, thanks for the advice, especially about the flash hood.

I had another look at the offside footwell today, you may remember my wobble board comment as a slab of the floor plate wasn't welded on 2 sides. Well I noticed that on the inside there was a 2mm hole in the centre of the plate that fills the 4" hole in the floor pressing but looking underneath the plate doesn't have that hole. So someone has laid a part floor pressing so it sits between the 2 outriggers and against the inner sill making a nice rust sandwich. The thing is, looking at the floor from underneath, the metal seems to be in good nick so I'm not sure why this has been done. No doubt I'll find out when it all comes out.

Also today, I stripped the underside of the boot floor, can you guess where the corrosion/patches are ? I've attached a video FYI and at the start I briefly mention salt crystals. Whilst I was cleaning the floor I noticed salt crystals (property of Staffs County Council Highways Dept.) sitting on the bottom of the diff and and also across the centre part of the boot floor (though not at the sides). Would mudflaps help to stop this ?

Finally, I posted a wanted advert on the relevant sub-forum so please take a look and let me know if you can help. ANd now for the video - Undeneath (and between) the Arches - http://vimeo.com/64320387

Regards,

Mark

[Stag therapy]

Mark

My boot also had non intentional holes in it once the underseal was removed. You will also find that some of the holes will blow bigger when you try to fill them with weld, which means you end up with more cutting out and fitting new metal. I think Edd had similar problems in his restoration and others will have experienced the same.

With the plate over the jig hole, I think you are going to find all sorts of nasties as you dig around and remove metal.

Rolling restoration or off the road for a while?

Baz

[StokeyStag]

Mark

My boot also had non intentional holes in it once the underseal was removed. You will also find that some of the holes will blow bigger when you try to fill them with weld, which means you end up with more cutting out and fitting new metal. I think Edd had similar problems in his restoration and others will have experienced the same.

With the plate over the jig hole, I think you are going to find all sorts of nasties as you dig around and remove metal.

Rolling restoration or off the road for a while?

Baz

♫ Stag-on wheels (rollin', rollin', rollin') Stag-on wheels
Keep on a-turnin' (turnin') Stag-on wheels ♫

Mark

[StokeyStag]

Put some Jenolite "rust remover" on the underside today. After it cured you could see where most of the corrosion was, I assume this will be the same for all of us so I took a quick video in case anyone was interested.

http://vimeo.com/64411901


Mark

[edd]

Hi Mark your vidoes are great , one thing i would do when you come to fix your car is to remove those existing side plates. I have found on my car big plates welded over tiny holes so it might look better when they are off , also creating laminating of the two surfaces is not good , sometimes you can't help but laminate but where you can a but weld joint is what your after. If you go to most steel fabricators they will bend up some nice steel so at least you have a nice 90 degree section to start forming a repair section from . Start with carboard cutouts too.All in all your car is very repairable .
Edd

[StokeyStag]

Thanks Edd,

I've done the temporary bodge (seam sealer & red oxide). When I come to do the repairs I'll be looking to remove most, if not all, of the plates to reassure myself as to what's underneath, otherwise I'll always be wondering if not worrying. I've already thought about dropping the front & rear suspension, pulling the engine & gearbox out & sticking it on a spit to make life easier. No doubt I'll be knocking on your door amongst others for advice about what to do and how to do it, so enjoy the peace & quiet whilst you can !

Regards,

Mark